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CURES 

Neuralgia, 

Rlieumatism, 

Sun Burns, 

Catarrh, 

Bites of Insects, 

Diarrhoea, 

Inflammations 
and 
Hemorrhages 
of all kinds. 



OUR TR/-C MARK ON THE BOTTLE. 









POND'S DCTBACT) 

-OlRECTON'3 WITHIN 
"♦RtDEXCLUs lLV BV the 

iXTRACT po^ 
'York, ano ]'<i^°°X 




DO NOT BE IMPOSED UPON. 

TOILETARTICLES 



Delighifully Perfumed and combined 
with Pond's Extract : 

Toilet Soap, softens t lie Ski n , (3 cakes) . 50 

Ointuient, for Piles (convenient to apply) 50 

Catarrh Cure, for Nasal. Throat and Ear discharge, .75 

Plasters (porous), by mail. (6 for $1 00) ?5 

Medicated Paper, for Hies and Chafing, 1000 sheets, .25 
Nasal Syringe, simple and durable 25 



foirists mi TravQlersI 



It is always advisable to prepare lor a journey beforehand. It is rather 
unpleasant to experience cold, damp winds (even in the Sunny South), and find 
the necessary overcoat or warm wraps have been left behind. Be prepared for 
all contingencies, is the advice of an old traveler. Sudden change of climate 
even in the Summer, often causes colds, debility, etc. If you have at hand a 
bottle of POND'S EXTRACT, by immediate use a serious attack of illness may 
be avoided. Then again, accidents are always liable to occur ; and how convenient 
and necessary at such times to have at iiand some of that wonder ov healing, 
POND'S EXTRACT ! It cures all inflammations and controls all hemorrhages 
like a charm. It is used externally and internally with the same good effect. 



AMERICAN PLAN 
Full Bnard 

per day. 

RDDIVIS 

DN EUROPEAN PLAN 

$ l°i per day 

and upward. 

. .r, 

SPECIAL RATES 

fnrfamiliEsand 
pErmanEnt 

^UEStS. 



REEFER'S 




^^ 




m 

liiSlIfflKlllgMl 




BB7TD B77 BRDADWAY. 



THIS HOTEL 

IS within onEhlaLk 

nf four lines of 

StPEEt and EievatEd 

Rail Roads. 

ThrEB lines of Stages 

pass the daar, 

affording rapid 

cammunicatian 

with Business Centres 

and places nfAmuse- 

iTiEnt.and is justly 

rE§ardEd the best 

Family HntEl 

in the City. 



Thi& Hotel is universally acknowledged the coolest in New York. The wide and 
straight halls running from Broadway to Mercer Street, insure perfect circulation of air 
The five large and elegant parlors. The handsomely decorated and cheerful Dining and 
Supper Rooms. It is provided with two of Otis & Co.'s Celebrated Elevators. Six out- 
side Fire Escapes have been recently added, which, with Five Wide Stairways, from 
roof to ground floor, makes the « GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL " 

THE SAFEST HOTEL IN AMERICA. 

Each floor in the building is nightly patrolled by a watchman with a tell-tale clock. 



How to Reach Keefer's Grand Central Hotel. 

From the New Jersey Central Railroad or Bound Brook Route — walk cue block on West Street 
and up Cortlandt Street to 6th Avenue Elevated R. R. and get off at Bleecker Street. From Penn. 
R. R. (Cortlandt St. Ferry), same as above. From Desbrosses St. Ferry — take Houston St. Car and 
get off at Broadway and Prince Street, and up Broadway four blocks to the Hotel. From Dela- 
ware, Lackawanna & Western — take the Christopher St. Ferry and Eighth Street and Broadway 
Car to Broadway, and walk down to Hotel. Fall River Line — walk up two blocks to Chambers St. 
and take the Houston St. car to Broadway and Prince and up four blocks, or take 6th Ave. Elevated 
R. R. at Chambers Street and get off at Bleecker. Providence Boat — same as above. Erie R. R. — 
same as above, Stonington Boat — same as above. Norwich and Peoples Line and Albany Day 
Line — take Houston St. car to Prince and Broadway, four blocks up to Hotel. From New Haven 
Boat, Hartford Boat, and Bridgeport Boat — take the Broadway Stage at Fulton Ferry to Hotel 
door, 677 Broadway. From Grand Central Depot, Hudson River R. R. and New Haven R. R. — take 
the Madison Ave. Stage to the Hotel door, or Fourth Ave. Horse Car to Great Jones Street, within 
one block of the Hotel, 

PATKONS OF THIS HOTEL ARE EEOOMMENDED TO HAVE THEIR BAG- 
GAGE CHECKED ON THE BOATS AND TRAINS. 




m.KN MOUNTAIN HOUSE AND SWISS COTTAGE, \V ATKINS GLKN, N. Y. 
A.J. MicheneVy Proprietor. (See page 37.) 



Our American Resorts. 



FOR HESLTH, PLEfiSURE, MD RECREHTION. 



WHERE TO GO AND HOW TO GET THERE 



COXCERAVXG rilE SUMMER AXD WINTER RESORTS TV THE UNITED STATES 

AND CANADA, EROM SEA-SHORE TO MOUNTAIN AND GLEN, AND FROM 

THE GROVES OE SUNNY ELORIDA TO THE LAKES AND PARKS 

OE THE NORTH AND WEST, WITH THE CHARACTERISTICS 

OF EACH, THEIR LEADING ATTRACTIONS, HOTEL 

ACCOMMODATIONS, LOCATION, MEANS OF 

APPROACH, RAIL WA Y FARES. ETC, 



^ITH NEAI^LY ONE r^UNDI^BD AND FlPTY ILLUSTI^AJPIONS. 
Edited by LOUIS M. BABCOCK. 

Copyright 1884. — All rights reserved. 




REVISED ANNUALLY—SECOND E D I T^-^^f^T^- 

V JlfN 27 7884. - 

WA;SHINGTON, D. C: X^^A . ^^vkC;^-^ 
NATIONAL NEWS BUREAU. 

NEW YORK. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

THE CITY OF WASHINGTON, 9 

The Capital as a Resort — Its Location and Plan — The Beauty of the Streets, Avenues, 
and Parks — The Capitol and other Public Buildings — The Suburbs : Soldiers' Home, 
Arlington, Cabin John's Bridge, Great Falls, Rock Creek — Mount Vernon. 

AMERICAN SCENERY 15 

Characteristics and Variety of — Virginia, Western Maryland and Eastern Pennsylvania — 
The Lehigh Valley. 

Mauch Chunk, 20 

Taughannock Falls, . . . ^ 22 

Eagle Mere 22 

Glen Summit 22 

Blue Mountain House, Md., 23 

OUR NATURAL WONDERS 25 

The Yellowstone National Park, 26 

The "Wonderland" of the World — The Geysers — The Falls and Grand Canon — Tower 
Creek and Falls — Yellowstone Lake — "Devil's Den" — Hot Springs of Gardiner's 
River — The Great Attractions of the Yellowstone Park — Drawbacks to, and Facilities 
afforded for, visiting the Park. 

Niagara Falls, 32 

Watkins Glen, 34 

Caverns of Luray 37 

Delaware Water Gap 40 

Natural Bridge, Va., 41 

Trenton Falls, N. Y . . 43 

HEALTH RESORTS OF THE SOUTH, 44 

Climate and Characteristics of Florida — Jacksonville — Green Cove Springs — Wakulla 
Springs — South Carolina Resorts : Aiken, Charleston — Northern Georgia and 
Western North Carolina : Asheville — Scenery. 
Hot AND Warm Springs, N. C, . . 51 

MOUNTAIN RESORTS 55 

The Alleghanies 56 

Deer Park and Oakland 56 

Kane. Pa., 57 

Cresson, 59 

Altoona, 60 

Renovo f)I 

Mountain Lake, Va., 61 

Colorado, . 61 

The River Canons — Extent of Mountain Scenery — The Parks — Denver — Colorado 

Springs — Manitou — Garden of the Gods — Idaho Springs — Georgetown — Green Lake 

— Gray's Peak — The Climate. 

California, ................ 69 

The Yosemite Valley — Lake Tahoe — Donner Lake — The Big Trees — The Geysers. 

Thf Catskills, 76 

Beauty of Scenery — Haines's Falls — Kaaterskill Clove — Overlook Mountain — Nooks 
and By-ways — Means of Access. 

Adirondacks 81 

, Extent of Mountains and Uniformity of Height — The Numerous Lakes — Different Routes 

■ \S through the Wilderness — A Paradise for Sportsmen — Blue Mt. Lake House. 

The White Mountains 85 

Characteristics of the Mountains, Valleys, Glens, and Rivers — From North Conway to 
Berlin Falls — From North Conway to Lancaster — Scenery and Points of Interest 
along the Routes — The Presidential Range — Mount Washington — Bethlehem — The 
Franconia Group. 



COiYTENTS. 



MINERAL SPRINGS RESORTS, 

Saratoga, 

Hot Springs, Ark., 

White Sulphur Springs, W. Va., 

Bedford Springs, Pa., 

Waukesha Springs, Wis. 

Richfield Springs, N. Y. 

Poland Spring, Me., 

LAKES AND RIVERS, 

The Five Great Lakes of the North — Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior — Beauty of Lake 
Michigan — Straits and Island of Mackinaw — Lake Huron — Lake Erie — Incidents 
connected with our National and Colonial History — Lake Ontario — Summer Resorts 
on the Shores of the Lakes. 

Lake Geneva, Wis:, 
Lake George, N. Y., 
Otsego Lake, N. Y., 
Lake Memphremagog, Vt., 
Seneca Lake, N. Y., 
Lake Winnipiseogee, N. H., 
Moosehead, Me., 
Lake Champlain, N. Y., . 
Chautauqua Lake, N. Y., 
Cayuga Lake, N. Y., 
Greenwood Lake, N. Y., 
Devil's Lake, Wis., 
Lake Minnetonka, Minn., 
Spirit Lake, Iowa, . 
Devil's Lake, Dak., 
The Great Rivers, . 

Scenery of the Hudson— The Upper Mississippi and the Dells of the Wisconsin — The 
Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence — Montreal and Quebec — The 
Wonderful River Saguenay. 



SEASHORE RESORTS, 

Atlantic City, 
Cape May, .... 
Long Branch, .... 
Ocean Grove and Asuukv Pakk 

Long Beach 

Newport, .... 

Narragansett Pier, 
Greenwich, Conn., 
Martha's Vineyard, 
- Nantucket .... 
From Cape Ann to Cape Cod, 



Swampscott — Marblehead — Rockport — Downer Landing — Melville Garden — Nantasket 
— Cohassett — Plymouth — Along the Cape to Provincetown. 



PAGE 

93 

95 
96 

97 



102 
103 
104 
105 
105 
107 
107 
108 
no 
III 
III 
112 
112 
114 
115 
115 



123 
124 
125 
125 
126 
127 
128 
I2g 
129 
130 
131 
131 



Isles of Shoals, N. H 

Bar Harbor, Mt. Desert Island, Me.. 

Newport News, .............. 

Old Point Comfort, 

Concerning Hay-fevek 

Railway Announcements, Hotel and other Cards 137 to 154 



132 

133 
134 
134 
136 



Q-^aeB BspeRB pRea 




U M M E R recreation has come to be a recognized necessity. Rest, 
change, and relaxation are natural requirements of the human 
system, and especially of the dwellers in cities, whose lives par- 
take so much of the artificial, and who are so far removed, as it 
were, from nature and the influences of outdoor freedom. Her- 
cules could not, at first, conquer Antaeus — the son of earth and 
sea — because each time the giant was thrown he gained new 
strength from mother earth. "The parallel is easily drawn. As 
the human mind and body need sleep, as they should have one 
day in seven for rest, so do they require each year a period during 
which they may escape from the noise and crowding of the city; 
from the toil and vexations of business, the wear, and grind, and 
the routine of usual avocations, and gain new vigor by simple 
contact with nature, breathing the air, using the diet, seeing the 
sights, and hearing the sounds of the country. Cowper expresses a homely truth 

in his lines: 

" God made the country, and man made the town; 
What wonder, then, that health and virtue, gifts 
That can alone make sweet the bitter draught 
That life holds out to all, should most abound 
And least be threatened in the fields and groves ? "' 

In this age the feverish excitement of speculation, the sharp competition in 
business, and the close application and incessant activity of professional and business 
men, with high rates of living and social dissipations, all combine to break down 
health in our cities, and render a season of recuperation doubly necessary. It is not, 
therefore, for mere idle pleasure and sight-seeing alone that such a large proportion 
of city people now annually spend a part of the heated term away from home — in the 
mountains, at the springs, or the sea-shore, — and that the number is increasing year 
by year. And at this season, when the first warm days foreshadow the warmer ones 
to come, the preparations for vacation begin — the casting about for a place to go 
occupies attention. It is estimated that more than four millions of people are patrons 
of summer resorts, and each season adds an hundred thousand or so. Fully 200,000, 
it is said, went up the St. Lawrence River last season. Of this multitude, only a 
small proportion have, before the beginning of June, settled the question, "Where 
shall we go?" A lack of comprehensive information is universally felt among 
them. The few meagre announcements that fall to their notice fail to meet 
their requirements, while the very place, perhaps, for which they are seeking 
never claims their attention. It is for the purpose of aiding these inquiries 
that the publication of Our American Resorts has been commenced. It is 



Vlll GRACE BEFORE MEAT. 

a good thing that in this world of ours a means of supply is provided for every 
real need; that as the seasons roll round with their ceaseless changes, the genius 
of man is constantly devising ways of meeting and filling the requirements of the day 
and hour, thus making not only the waste places of the earth, but of men's souls, 
" blossom as the rose." With the increase of demand there is an increase of induce- 
ments, and every year new attractions are developed, new beauties and new wonders 
discovered. There are summer resorts and summer resorts; places where the curious 
and vain may see and be seen, where nature in its loveliest and grandest aspects may be 
studied, or where tired humanity may refresh itself according to its bent. The great 
variety is only equaled by the vastly differing tastes and requirements. And as inclina- 
tions diverge one year, so will the same individuals recognize in themselves changed 
conditions and needs for the next. In this, as in all things, variety is the spice of 
life. 

" Of all the passions that possess mankind, 
The love of novelty rules most the mind; 
In search of this, from realm to realm we roam, 
Our fleets come fraught with ev'ry folly home." 

Yet, changing and changeful mankind, with many pleasures to choose, can sometimes 
find delight in none. Among those who have naught to seek but enjoyment, that is 
not infrequently found the most tiresome of all occupations, for satiety is a stubborn 
disease. Often the things which were erstwhile our pleasure to-day pall upon the 
taste; and a quotation from Pope's moral essays well depicts the humor of many 
who seek places of resort: 

" Papilla, wedded to her amorous spark, 

Sighs for the shades — ' how charming is a park! ' 

A park is purchased, but the fair he sees 

All bathed in tears — 'OI odious, odious trees! ' " 

But withal, summer resorts are a blessing to the race, and sick or well, rich or poor, 
all derive increase of years with increase of happiness from the days or weeks spent 
in rational recreation. In the succeeding pages are described many places of real 
interest, any of which will amply repay a visit, either for health or pleasure. Con- 
cerning the publication itself, it is a thmg of growth and progress which will continue 
to develop as its usefulness becomes more apparent. Some maps and original en- 
gravings designed for it, were not undertaken in time for the present edition, but 
assuredly, the next issue will excel any work of the kind heretofore published. 




GET YOUR TICKETS, GENTLEMEN; STAND IN LINE AND DON T CROWD. 



Pe 



■/ 



ofW 



Qspina 



ton. 



IT is not inappropriate that a work on American Resorts should begin with 
something concerning the attractions of a city in which all Americans are inter- 
ested, and to which thousands of tourists and sight-seers journey every month 
in the year. Washington is sought and visited by people from every section, at all 
seasons, not alone because it is the nation's capital, but also for the reason that it 
is the most beautiful and attractive of American cities, its climate the most salubrious, 
and its surroundings the most interesting. In spring and summer people come to 
see the beauties of the city, and to visit the places of public interest of which they 
have heard. In winter people of wealth come to enjoy the comforts of a mild climate 
and to participate in the round of semi-official social pleasures. The artist, the phi- 




THE CAprroi. 



losopher and the scholar find here a congenial workshop, and rich stores of the 
choicest fruits culled from nature, art and literature. So, to this city, already great 
and beautiful, but destined probably to be greater and more beautiful than Rome in 
its prime, come all the currents of the national life, a tide of vast magnitude, which in- 
creases in volume as the country grows in population and the attractions of the capital 
multiply in number and variety. It was said of Rome that " as the streams lose them- 
selves in the ocean, so the history of the peoples once distributed along the Mediterra- 
nean shores is absorbed in that of the great mistress of the world." Of Washington it 
may be said that it is rapidly becoming a storehouse of the products of the genius of 



1 o OUR A M ERICA N RESOR'I 'S 

all mankind. Our seat of government, apart from its political attractions, contains 
even now, so much that is of interest in architecture and antiquities, such art collec- 
tions and such treasuries of knovirledge and invention in its museums and its Patent 
Office, as to compete almost on even terms with the great centres of commerce all 
combined. The actual population of AVashington is not above two hundred thousand ; 
but, like the human heart which it typifies, all the blood of the country, sooner or 
later, runs through it, and ever3^body is at one time or another a resident. The ebb 
and flow of transient visitors and temporary inhabitants is so enormous that railways 
alone can give prompt ingress and egress to the tide, and these railways, by the very 
facilities they furnish, but provoke a still greater volume of travel. Do you want to 
find a particular man on the street ? Stand where you are and he will pass by after 
awhile. So, if you want to see anybody, you have only to go to Washington and 
wait a day or two ; he will be sure to turn up. It is worth your while to visit the 
city, if only to be surprised by the sudden appearance of the very last person in the 
world that you ever expected to see. 

Washington is located on the east bank of the Potomac, at the head of naviga- 
tion, 295 miles from the ocean, where the river runs from the northwest to the south- 
east and expands to the width of over a mile. It is situated upon and surrounded by 
high bluffs and hills on the Maryland side, while on the opposite side are Arlington 
Heights and Fort Whipple. The District of Columbia was selected as the site of the 
National Capital after much consideration by Congress, extending over the period 
from October, 1783, to July, 1790; and on the i6th day of the latter month the act 
entitled "An act establishing the temporary and permanent seat of government of 
the United States " was passed by a vote of 32 to 29. Many and weighty were the 
reasons urged for the selection made, not the least among which was the deference 
and respect which would thus be paid to the wishes of General Washington, who 
from the first strongly advocated this point ; his attention, it is said, having been 
fixed upon its advantages when a youthful surveyor of the country round. That he 
builded better than he knew is evinced in the fact tha't the Washington of to-day 
eclipses the most sanguine expectations of its founder, and in beauty far surpasses 
the capitals of other nations. The design of L'Enfant, who planned the city, although 
derided for seventy years, has, through the genius and energy of Governor Shepherd, 
been made to develop into a model of convenience and sightliness. Though many 
changes have been made since Webster denominated Washington "a city of magnifi- 
cent distance's," its broad streets and numerous reservations are still suggestive of 
abundant breathing-room. These broad, well-paved and cleanly-swept streets, inter- 
spersed with parks, squares and fountains, are laid out in parallel lines from east to 
west and north to south, while the avenues radiating from the Capitol and Executive 
Mansion intersect them at various points, forming circles, triangles, and oblongs, all 
of which are beautifully adorned with trees, shrubbery and flowers. There is hardly 
a street or avenue but adown its vista some allurement is displayed ; this one reaches 
far away through the green of maple and linden and the blue of distance across the 
long bridge to the hills of Virginia ; that one ends in the lovely grounds of the Agri- 
cultural Department or the Smithsonian Institute, while Pennsylvania Avenue, like 
the kaleidoscope, presents new scenes at every turn. Almost every foot of its length 
and breadth is replete with historical incidents. Here ruler and ruled jostle each 
other ; cabinet officers and senators and representatives are not distinguished above 



WASHINGTON CITY. ■ ii 

the common mass, and over this smooth roadway noiselessly rolls the liveried equipage 
of foreign ambassadors, side by side with the humble vehicle of the private citizen. 
Sooner or later all the famous of our own and other countries are tolerably sure to 
meet and pass upon this grand highway. Washington in his yellow chariot, drawn by 
six horses, has driven over it ; Hamilton, Lafayette, Clay, Webster, and all the gods 
of the Republic, have trodden it. Five hundred thousand Federal soldiers marched 
up this avenue in review before the President and the Generals of the Army, shout- 
ing their songs of gladness, in 1865, when grim-visaged war had given way to white- 
winged peace. Those who remember the Washington of 1861-5, upon returning now 
for the first time, can scarcely realize that the Washington of to-day- is the same city. 
Sections which were then outlying swamps, and others that were the abode of 
wretchedness and squalor, have been transformed into something like fairy land. 




Grand and imposing public buildings have been erected ; squares and parks have 
been laid out and improved and beautified, and palatial private residences, with sur- 
rounding adornments, have risen up in every quarter. 

Naturally the public buildings first attract the visitor's eye. The Capitol, the 
central figure, first awes, then allures by its imposing outline and proportions. It is 
not only the finest building in America, but in the world. Standing in all its mag- 
nificence upon one of the city's highest hills, the great white dome, surmounted by 
the colossal statue of the Goddess of Liberty, rises over the immense'pile of granite 
like an imperishable signal of freedom for the oppressed of^all the earth. At its 
base the greensward, velvety lawns and embowering trees betoken the shelter and 
repose found in the shadow of its aegis. The east fagade or front of the building 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



looks out over East Capitol Park and the plain of Capitol Hill, with the azure hills 
of " My Maryland " for a background, the west overlooking the business part of the 
city and the Potomac, commanding a view pronounced by the great traveler, Hum- 
boldt, one of the most beautiful his eyes had ever beheld. The Capitol is not only 
interesting and pleasing on account of the beauty of its exterior and surroundings, 
but it contains within some of the richest treasures of the nation. First, there is 
the Congressional library, one of the largest and most valuable in the world; the 
Senate Chamber, Hall of Representatives, Gallery of Statuary, and the Rotunda 
filled with paintings by our greatest masters. A continuous park about two miles in 
length extends from the Capitol westward to the Potomac, within which are the 
Botanical Gardens and Greenhouses, the Smithsonian Institution, and New National 
Museum, containing a vast collection of natural curiosities and works of art, the 
Department of Agriculture, the Washington Monument, and the Bureau of Engrav- 
ing and Printing, where all our bank-notes and government stamps are made. The 
west end of this park sweeps round to the north, taking in the Treasury Building, 
the Executive Mansion, known as the White House, and that elegant new structure, a 
model of modern architecture, occupied by the State, War and Navy Departments. 
Besides these there are in other sections of the city, the Interior Department building, 
containing the bureaus of Indian Affairs, Public Lands, and the Patent Office, with 
the thousands of models stored there as monuments to the genius of American 

inventors, the Post Office De- 
partment, the Medical Mu- 
seum, the Naval Observator}' 
the Navy Yard, and many 
other points, each entitled to 
a day's inspection. To min- 
utely mention all the public 
buildings and institutions is 
not the province of this work. 
The visitor will find compre- 
hensive guide-books easily ob- 
tained if needed, and will 
learn in a few days' sojourn 
many interesting facts and 
details not readily committed 
to paper. 

The tourist to Washing- 
ton usually comes with the 
notion that the Public Build- 
ings, the President and Con- 
gress, comprise about all there 
is worth seeing in the capital. 
But, while these are among 
its chief attractions, there are 
many others equally calculated to interest and delight. Lincoln Park, with the colossal 
statue of the " Martyred President " striking the chains from the limbs of the slave, 
Lafayette Park, with Mills' Equestrian Statue of Jackson, the most wonderful artistic 




LEE MANSION, ARLINGTON HEIGHTS. 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



13 




WILT.A'ID S HOTEL. 



work of its class, Washington Circle, with its statue of him who was " first in war, first 
in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen," with various other parks and circles 
wherein'are statues of Scott, Thomas, McPherson, Farragut and other national heroes 
present a study of interest. The Corcoran Art Gallery, the personal gift of the great 
philanthrophist whose name it bears, is known throughout the land, and in its 
spacious halls are gathered some of the finest gems that have made immortal the 
artists of this and past generations. Besides all these interesting features within the 
city, there are other 
attractions no less 
important in its sur- 
round i n gs. The 
drives about Wash- 
ington are unsur- 
passed, affording 
views of nature's 
wildest freaks as 
well as the cultiva- 
ted splendors of ro- 
mantic and aesthetic 
taste. Two hundred 
old forts crumbling 
to decay on the hills 
round about are elo- 
quent reminders of our late civil war; Arlington, with its memories of Washington, 
Custis and Lee, and its thousands of mounds above the dead who died for country; 
the Soldiers' Home, with its eight or nine hundred acres of park, its unrivaled drives 
stretching over hill and vale, and its wilderness of flowers and forest trees; Kalorama 
Heights, overlooking the city and affording a view southward as far as the eye can 
reach, are each worthy of more than passing notice, and afford hours of pleasant, 
satisfying exploration. The scenery along the Potomac to Great Falls, 16 miles above 
Georgetown, is marvelous in its romantic beauty. A trip past the Georgetown Heights, 
over the conduit road, and past Cabin, John's Bridge, the longest single span in the 
world, is one of the many pleasant rides. The Great Falls themselves and their 
surroundings comprise a scene scarcely equaled anywhere for romantic beauty and 
ruggedness. Another of the delightful drives about the capital is up Rock Creek, 
the stream which separates West Washington from the city proper. The country 
around this creek, though bordering upon the city and almost entering its very gates, 
to-day remains in the perfection of wildness and natural beauty. It is indeed an 
enchanting spot, replete with inviting retreats, leafy bowers and rippling waters. 

" Nature was here so lavish of her store 
That she bestowed until she had no more." 

The garden spot of Washington, literally, is the portion south of Pennsylvania 
avenue, including what is termed the Mall and the White lot. In this area of several 
hundred acres are some beautiful drives, around the Botanical Garden, in the Smith- 
sonian and Agricultural grounds, and around the other squares included. The 
report of the Parking Commission shows that there are to-day nearly one hundred 



'4 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



and twenty miles of trees in the cit}^ of Washington, of which about one-half are 
maples. The remainder includes poplars, box elders, elms, lindens, buttonwoods, 
willows and firs. These include only the work of the Parking Commission and 
represent the fruits of about ten years' labor. The young trees thrive well and give 
promise of making the city more and more attractive as yearly they increase in size. 
The stately giants in the public parks, also numbered by thousands, are not included 
in the count of nature's ornaments under the charge of this commission. 

Few visitors to Washington leave it without taking a trip to Mount Vernon, the 
former home and present resting-place of the " Father of his Country." It is an 
exceedingly pleasant excursion down the Potomac past Fort Washington and Fort 
Foote, and the scenery along the river is full of picturesque interest. The steamer 
" Corcoran " which makes this trip daily, leaving at lo a. m., and returning at 4 p. m., 
is one of the finest vessels on the river, and is under the command of Captain L. L. 
Blake, well known as an experienced and genial officer. The tolling of the steamer's 
bell announces the approach to the tomb of Washington, in accordance with the cus- 
tom among all steam vessels passing Mount Vernon. Once in the grounds time 
passes so rapidly while wandering through the groves and gardens of this beautiful 
old homestead, standing high upon the bluff overlooking the river, and there is so 
much interest in looking through the quaint old rooms of the mansion, that the day 
seems all too short. It is not the object of this article to picture all the visitor may 
see in and around the National Capital, but the aim has been to direct attention to 

some of the most attractive features, and 
to give a reason for the faith that is in 
us — to tell how the tourist may be repaid 
for coming here. Washington is reached 
from the south by the Chesapeake & 
Ohio and the Richmond, Fredericksburg 
& Potomac railways; from New York, 
Philadelphia and the East or West by 
the Pennsylvania, and Baltimore & Ohio 
railroads. During the summer the Poto- 
mac Steamboat Company runs a daily 
line to Norfolk, connecting with steamers 
for New York, Boston and other points 
on the Atlantic coast. The hotel accom- 
modations of the city are excellent and 
ample. Willard's Hotel, capable of ac- 
commodating 500 people, is one of the 
best-known houses in the country, around which cluster many historical incidents 
connected with the nation's life. It is one of the objects of interest to visitors, as is 
also "The Arlington." These two are considered the t;est stopping-places in the city, 
being first class in every particular. One can meet in them at any time numbers of 
public men. There are also several other good hotels. No city in the Union is better 
equipped for entertaining large numbers in comfort and luxury. 




THK ARLl.NGTUN. 



menican ®cenen 



/• 



THE endless variety of American Scenery is perhaps unequaled by any other 
part of the globe. The chief attraction for tourists possessed by such remote 
localities as Colorado and California, elsewhere described, lies in the striking 
and impressive character of their mountain scenery. But for the milder and more 
charming type, belonging to a region not strictly classed as mountains, portions of 

Virginia, Maryland and Penn- 
sylvania, are especially noted. 
This region, though separated 
by State lines, is topographi- 
cally the continuation of one 
chain of connected or kindred 
hills and valleys. Brief men- 
tion of some of the prominent 
features of this favored section, 
side b}' side with the chapters 
on "Natural Wonders" and 
'' Mountain Resorts," is neces- 
sary to complete an impression 
of the variety just spoken of. 

Virginia, traversed by two 
ranges of mountains and innum- 
erable winding rivers, abounds 
in beautiful valleys and incom- 
parable landscapes One of the finest views the writer 
ever beheld may be seen from the summit of the Blue 
Ridge near Snicker's Gap, looking down into the famous 
Loudon Valley ; but there are a hundred others from 
\aiious points in both the Blue Ridge and the Allegha- 
■^ ""'" nies neai ly equal to it Not only has Virginia her full 

share of mountains, high rugged crags and rocky slopes, but beautiful cascades 
wonderful caves, and romantic glens are encountered in various portions of her 
domain. In the diversity, surprising character, and interesting features of the study 
she affords to lovers of the marvelous and picturesque, few localities can sustain a 
claim to superiority over the old State, which, in the early days of our national 
history, won distinction as " the mother of presidents." 

The mountains of Virginia do not point bold stony summits above the clouds far 
beyond vegetation and timber line, but" they are high enough to be grand, while still 
retaining the charm and beauty of verdure. The climate, in general, is that of the 
temperate zone, and th,e mountain region is exceedingly healthy. The thermometer 
seldom rises higher than 85" in the hottest days, and the nights are always cool. 
Occupying a middle ground between the rigorous climate of the North and the ener- 
vating heat of the extreme South, Virginia is geographically one of the choicest sec- 
tions of the country. The principal rivers of the State are the Potomac, the Green- 




i6 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 




brier, the Rappahannock, the 
Shenandoah, the James, of 
which the Chickahominy is 
a tributary, the York, the New 
and the Roanoke. Nearly all 
these are navigable to a con- 
siderable distance toward the 
mountains in which they gen- 
erally take their rise, and their 
banks are highly picturesque. 
Beyond the limits of naviga- 
tion the wildness of mountain 
streams obtain, and numerous 
waterfalls of striking beauty 
are to be seen. Of these the 



WATER GAP, CLIFTON FORGE. 

New River Falls, seven miles from Hinton 
on the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, are 
perhaps the most noted. The Cataract is i7^^^ 
but twenty-four feet high, but the width 
of the river and the extent of the rapids 
make a scene of unusual wonder. The falls of the 
Kanawka are also notable features of the scenery of 
this region. The tourist over the Chesapeake & Ohio 
line will enjoy one of the most picturesque 
journeys to be found on this continent. The i\ 
scenery is not of the majestic or W^ 

startling character, but it is wild 
and abrupt, with all the soften- 
ing tints of a fine painting: 
" 'Tis beauty truly lent, whose 
red and white Nature's own 
sweet cunning hand laid on." 

Every one who has ever 
crossed the Alps into Italy re- 
members the zigzags from 
which he looks down on the 
valley he is reaching, but with- 
out exaggeration it may be said 
that all the alternations of dark 
tunnel and picturesque valley of tl 




AMERICAN SCENERY. 



17 




VANBIhl LR s KOCK 



little road could be substracted from the 
Chesapeake & Ohio line without being 
missed. All travelers by the little narrow- 
gauge one-horse railroads in the Rocky 
Mountains will remember the fancy pieces 
of engineering by which high ranges are 
crossed, and nobody has traveled in Cali- 
fornia without treasuring a recollec- 
tion of the rounding of Cape Horn, 
where the train winds round the high 
blow of a mountain as if it had climbed 
up to give you a look at the valleys 
below. The tourist across the 
Virginias can have delights like 
these again and again repeated. 
The Rhine owes no little of its 
attractiveness to the battlements 
on its steeps. The New River is 
not indeed like the Rhine in 
depth or breadth; but it has features of its own. Now it is a broad stream leisurely 
chattering to the woods that overhang it ; anon it is in a narrower bed scolding the 
rocks as large as houses, that have intruded themselves upon it from the hill-sides, 
of which they grew weary. But for giant cliffs, Eagle's Nests, Lover's Leaps, and 
mountain fastnesses in ruins, the New River can compete with any ^ 

stream of traveled lands, and with this difference in its favor, that no 
cunning Count or Baron bold 
piled up those frowning battle- 
ments. Geological forces in an 
Omnipotent hand, and with un- 
limited time in which to work, 
placed these precipitous, castle- 
like crowns on the wooded hills, 
and gave them a peculiarity not 
seen elsewhere, namely, that 
behind them corn and wine 
abound; for the Alleghanies are 
fertile to their summits. As one 
is whirled along, it is difficult to 
say which challenges most ad- 
miration — the river below, the 
cliffs above, the graceful lines of 
the hills, the moving shadows 
over the green slopes of the 
mountain sides, or the sublime 
audacity that built a railroad 

through such a region. Passen- jeF't -^^'.\:^.^' 

gers from New York, Philadel- , new river, near hinton. 




i8 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



phia, Baltimore and Washington take the through cars of the Chesapeake & Ohio^at 
Washington for Cincinnati and the South or for points in Virginia along the line. 
A favorite summer route from the Eastern seaboard cities is by steamer to Richmond, 
Fortress Monroe or Newport News and thence West by the Chesapeake & Ohio 
Railway. 

What is known as the remarkable "springs region " of Virginia and West Virginia 
lies mostly along the line of or near to the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. The bare 

enumeration of all the min- 
eral springs and resorts em- 
braced in this region would 
fill a page or more of this 
book, and to attempt a de- 
tailed account of them would 
require a good-sized volume. 
Situated as they generally are, 
high up among the Alleghany 
ranges, they enjoy the perfec- 
tion of mountain atmosphere 
and an abundance of forest 
shade. First and foremost are 
the Greenbrier White Sulphur 
Springs, in West Virginia, 
more fully spoken of else- 
where. The Red Sulphur, 
also in West Virginia, are 
twelve miles from Falcott 
Station, on the Chesapeake & 
Ohio Railway, and are the 
only springs of the kind in 
this country. The Sweet 
Chalybeate Springs are nine 
miles from the railroad, 
reached by stage from Alle- 
ghany, in the height of the 
mountains. The " Old " 
Sweet, as they are called, are 
ten miles from Alleghany. 
These and the Berkeley and 
Capon Springs are in West 
Virginia. Healing Springs, in Bath County, Virginia, are sixteen miles from Coving- 
ton, over a splendid turnpike. The Hot Springs are four miles further on in the same 
locality. Jordan Alum and the Rockbridge Alum are also on the Chesapeake & Ohio, 
reached by stage from Gosham and Millboro, respectively. Rawley Springs are in 
Rockingham County, twelve miles from Harrisonburg. The Yellow Sulphur are located 
three miles from Christiansburg, on the Norfolk & Western Railroad, and the Blue Ridge 
Springs are directly on the line of that road. The Fauquier White Sulphur are near 
the terminus of the Warrenton branch of the Virginia Midland. All these springs 




THE HARRIERS OF THE ALLEGH.\MES. 



AMERICAN SCENERY. 



19 



are more or less famous and popular, as well as many other resorts in the State, which 
possess genuine natural attractions and advantages, but the)'^ are not patronized in 
proportion to their merits, because of the sloth and narrowness which attaches to 
their owners and managers. In the hands of thorough-going, enterprising men who 
know how to take advantage of w^hat nature has thrown at their feet, this region 
would not be equaled for popularity by any other in the country. As it is, the Ches- 
apeake & Ohio Railway Company does about all the advertising done for all of them, 
except the Hygeia at Old Point Comfort ; but it is not able to do enough, nor can it 
provide the improvements and managements required to make each resort what it 
should be. The new Hotel Warwick at Newport News, described under the head of 
" Sea Shore Resorts," enters the list as a formidable rival of the popular Hygeia at 
"Old Point." The other important resorts are also described elsewhere in the classes 
to which they belong. 



PENNSYLVANIA.— THE LEHIGH VALLEY. 

The entire State of Pennsylvania is an alternation of mountain ranges, 
rivers, charming, fertile valleys and rolling landscapes. Those whose eyes 
iar only with the broad 
prairies of the Mississip- 
pi Valley, or the great 
plains of the West, have 
a rare pleasure in store 
when they obtain a first 
view of this ever-chang- 
ing panorama of the Key- 
stone State. The wild 
and rugged appearance 
of the mountains, the 
loftiness of their peaks, 
and the dense growth 
of timber covering their 
sides, is suddenly con- 
trasted with a glimpse 
of the broad Susque- 
hanna and rich, highly 
cultivated farms. The 
principal rivers of Penn- 
sylvania are almost as 
well known as the " Fath- 
er of Waters" in the West. 
Who has not heard of 
the Schuylkill, the Dela- 
ware, the Allegheny, the 
Susquehanna and the 
beautiful Juniata? And 
equally world - wide is ^ Pennsylvania lan;:sca- r. 



beautiful 
are famil- 




20 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

the fame of such valleys as the Lehigh, the Wyoming, the Chester and the Cumber- 
land. 

The Lehigh Valley is probably the king of all the valleys and the most delight- 
fully picturesque portion of the State. Through it from New York and Philadelphia 
to Ithaca and Geneva, on Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, passing Mauch Chunk, Bethle- 
hem, Easton and Wilkesbarre, runs the famous Lehigh Valley Railroad, side by side, 
part of the distance, with the Lehigh River. A trip over this line richly repays the 
time and trouble. Your train veers to the right and left, sweeping upon a constant 
succession of curves beneath the precipitous and often overhanging cliffs, which hold the 
narrowing stream in leash. Look forward or backward or whichever way you will and 
your sight is ever-rewarded with such scenes as seldom find a richer coloring or form 
upon vaunted canvas. The river itself dashes forward, its waters brightly dark with 
hemlock stains, gathers itself anon into sullen pools bespotted with logs and debris, 
to break again below over the cleavage of its rocky bed. Besides the beautiful valley 
through which this road runs and the enchanting lakes upon whose shores it termi- 
nates, there are other points of interest to summer tourists and vacation seekers which 
are worthy of special mention. Particulars concerning Seneca and Cayuga Lakes, 
their surroundings and attractions, are given elsewhere under the head of "Lakes and 

Rivers." 

MAUCH CHUNK. 

There is perhaps no tourist or pleasure-seeker in America who has not seen or 
heard more or less of this remarkable spot and the Switch-back Railroad, probably 
the most famous pleasure road in the world. The beauty of the scenery, the coolness 
and purity of the air and the excellence of the water, have rendered Mauch Chunk a 
favorite resort, particularly with Philadelphians and New Yorkers, and by reason of 
the convenience with which it may be included in tours it is annually visited by thou- 
sands. It is directly on the line of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, 121 miles from New 
York and 89 miles from Philadelphia, and is therefore readily reached from either 
direction. The town, which includes a number of elegant residences, is built in a 
narrow valley between the Mahoning and Sharp Mountains. The hills rise precipi- 
tately to a height of several hundred feet, and not far back attain an elevation of 1,500 
feet above tide-water. The chief attractions about the place are the Switch-back 
Gravity Railroad, Glen Onoko, the private mountain walks and drives and the wild 
forests. The Switch-back road, covering in a round trip nearly eighteen miles of 
track, extends from near Mauch Chunk to the top of Mount Pisgah, the highest point 
of Sharp Mountain. The cars of this road, which is now only used for pleasure, are 
drawn by stationary engines to the top of the mountain, from which they descend by 
their own gravity down the opposite grade. Its course is gradual, following the tor- 
tuous sinuosities of the surface, now glancing under the shade of broad-spreading 
trees, and anon skirting a beetling crag, until the bottom is reached. The ride is 
exhilarating beyond description. Human ingenuity has been taxed to render the 
ascent as free from danger as the power of man can assure, and the introduction of 
the "safety-bar" and cog, by which the car can be instantly stopped, secures this re- 
sult. No Accident has ever occurred. The view from the top of Mount Pisgah and 
from " Flag-Staff Ledge," a high peak of Mahoning Mountain, is really magnificent. 
This last-mentioned point is made easily accessible by a beautiful mountain drive, or 
by a rustic path up the mountain from the town. 



AMERICAN SCENERY. 



Glen Onoko, situated two miles above Mauch Chunk, is over one mile in length 
and is a delightful retreat. The great popularity of the Limestone Glens of Central 
New York prompted the development of this dell, which was formerly known as 
Moore's Ravine. The pathway, which 
leads successively from one fine point ot 
view to another, is the only innovation 
upon nature's handiwork, otherwise left 
in its rich simplicity of form and tan- 
gle. At the very entrance is a cascade 
called " Hidden Sweet," because of 
glimpses through a vista from the 
outer world. Beyond this are a series 
of waterfalls glistening in the sun- 
light like thousands of diamonds 
Among them are the Crystal, Spectre 
and Moss cascades and Lover's Bath 
From the Rustic Stairway is obtained 
a view composed of luxuriant foliage 
and these successive falls, which is 
enchanting. The most noted wa- 
terfalls in the glen, are the Chamelon 
Falls, so named from the variety of 
beautiful rainbow colors to be 
seen in the spray, and Onoko 
Falls, over which the watei ^k 
rushes from a height of ninety 
feet. It was here, from the 
overhanging ledges, that 
tradition says Onoko and 
the Indian maidens 
flung themselves in .^ 
wild despair, and d-j 
weredashed to pieces % 
on the rocks below. "% 
At Hunter's Rock 
Cabin is a picnic 
dancing platform, ^:i> 
and from Sunrise # 



P o i n t , near by, a 
beautiful view is ob- 
tained through an 
openingin thegorge. 
From Packer's Point, 
a rustic platform on 

the mountain top, is seen a series of grand landscape views, including mountains, 
valleys, rivers, canal, railroads and villages, as far as the eye can reach. 

People residing in our large cities hardly realize how quickly and easily a visit to 




ONOKO FALLS. 



2 2 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

these romantie places may be enjoyed. The morning train from New York or Phila- 
delphia takes you to Mauch Chunk in time for dinner. There are two hotels in the 
town, the most desirable and popular of which is the American House. One thing in 
favor of the Lehigh Valley Road as a tourists' route is the fact that anthracite coal is 
burned in the engines, thus avoiding the smoke and smut usually coming from that 

source. 

TAUGHANNOCK FALLS. 

Situated a few miles from Ithaca is a waterfall of unusual impressiveness, whose 
fame has Been sufficient to make of the locality a popular resort. These falls are 
among the most remarkable of all waterfalls in a region noted for many of them. The 
fall is more than fifty feet higher than Niagara, and is considered as grand as the 
Staubbach of Switzerland. The water breaks over a clear-cut table rock and falls per- 
pendicularly two hundred and fifteen feet. The rugged cliffs through which the 
stream rolls before it makes its final plunge, are about^-two hundred feet in depth and 
form a triangle at the brink of the fall. From the foot a strong wind rushes down 
the ravine, the walls of which are here nearly four hundred feet high, and as clearly 
cut as though laid by the hand of a stone mason. The ravine is reached by a series 
of stairways hewn in the rock and by several pathways. There are two very attract- 
ive and comfortable-looking rural hotels at Taughannock. The Cataract House is 
beautifully situated in a fine grove, near the fall, and but a short walk from the steam- 
boat landing on the lake. Rustic seats and arbors are plentifully scattered about the 
grove. Excursions by the line of steamers plying between Ithaca and Cayuga are 
among the enjoyable and popular sources of amusement. 

EAGLE MERE. 

Over on the Pennsylvania side of the State line, in the midst of the pine vyoods, 
on a spur of the Alleghany Mountains, is Eagle Mere. It is as yet known as a resort 
only to a select few from the cities of Philadelphia and Baltimore, but within a few 
vears, when the attractions and real merits of the locality are heralded among those 
who seek such places, \t will enjoy a prosperity second to no other. A picturesque 
little lake with no inlet, except the springs at its bottom, and waters as clear as 
crystal, is the primary attraction, but the high altitude, wild surroundings and the 
fragrant air of the pines all combine to increase the advantages. Deer and other game 
are said to abound in the woods. The air is particularly spoken of by those who have 
visited the locality as being especially pure and invigorating. For invalids, or those 
suffering from nervous prostration or debility, there is no better place. Hay-fever is 
also relieved in most cases entirely. Laporte, a short distance away, enjoys the same 
atmosphere and is also frequented as a resort. To reach either point leave the Le- 
high Valley Railroad at Towanda and take the cars of the State Line Railroad to 
Dushore, thence by stage seven miles. From Baltimore and Washington trains of the 
Northern Central Railroad connect at Towanda for same route. There is also a 
stage line to Hughesville on the Muncy Creek Railroad, eight miles distant. 

GLEN SUMMIT. 

On the summit of Wilkesbarre Mountain, overlooking both the Lehigh and Wyo- 
ming Valleys, is another new resort possessing unusual advantages. A fine hotel has 
just been erected on this site, intended to accommodate five hundred people, but all 



AMERICAN SCENERY. 



23 



the rooms are not yet completed. Those in readiness at the beginning of this season 
were engaged in advance. The view from this hotel is magnificent in the extreme. 
The altitude is sufficient to secure a highly rarified atmosphere, and the accessibility 
of the place will undoubtedly soon cause a demand for increased accommodations. Fine 
drives are to be enjoyed in several directions, and the waters of a mineral spring, 
discovered by the Indians, are added to the list of attractions. 



BLUE MOUNTAINS, MARYLAND. 

The scenery of Western Maryland in the Blue Ridge Mountains belongs to the 
same class as that of Virginia and Pennsylvania, just described. The country along 
the line of the Western Maryland Railroad is thrifty in appearance, and has been de- 
nominated the garden region of the State, while some of the landscape views to be 
obtained at various points are both grand and exquisite. Pen-Mar and High Rock 




ULUE MOUNTAIN HOTSE. 

are the culminating points. Passing from the lowland the rugged grandeur opens 
to the view, and increases in interest until the latter point is reached. At Pen-Mar, 
71 miles from Baltimore, a grand pavilion has been erected at the railway station 
from whence excursionists are taken by carriages two miles to High Rock. From 
this pinnacle a view is had of the Cumberland and Shenandoah Valleys on the north, 
west and south, covering an area of 2,000 square miles of fairy land. High Rock is 
2,000 feet above the sea-level, and 1,400 feet above the foot of the mountain below. 
The panorama of the Cumberland Valley is, beyond doubt, one of the grandest afforded 
in this country. As far as the eye can reach, from the Susquehanna River southward 
to the Massanutton Mountains, miles beyond the Potomac, the Valley lies below, 
studded with towns, villages, hamlets and farm-houses. The towns of Chambersburg, 
Hagerstown, Greencastle, Smithsburg, Leitersburg, Waynesboro', and a dozen other 
smaller places, can be seen almost at one sweep of the eye. From the Potomac to 



24 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

the Susquehanna, and from the Blue Ridge across to the west, where the Alleghanies 
form the horizon, one vast natural picture is presented: 

Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around, 
Of hills and dales, of woods, and lawns, and spires, 
And glittering towns and gilded streams, till all 
The stretching landscape into smoke decays ! 

One hundred miles at a glance ! Into four States and more than half a dozen 
counties ! On the southwest, in the distance, are Maryland Heights and Jefferson 
Rock, at whose feet the Shenandoah unites with the Potomac, and near by is historic 
Harper's Ferry. On the northwest Parnell Knob boldly lifts its hoary head " cloud- 
girdled on his purple throne." Directly at your feet, shelving down below are rocks 
full of grand expressions, caves that might be the abiding places of rude Boreas and 
soft-breathing Notus, and forests so dense that one might live and die in their re- 
cesses, " the world forgetting, by the world forgot." 

Nearly on the summit of the Mountain, one mile from Pen-Mar, is the new Blue 
Mountain House, erected in 1883 to supply the want universally felt of a first-class 
resort in this neighborhood. It is within easy reach of Baltimore, Washington and 
Philadelphia, and immediately attained such popularity that the house had to be 
enlarged before the opening of the second season. The capacity of the hotel is now 
400 guests, and its appointments are all first class, being provided with all modern 
improvements and conveniences. The roads round about are well graded, giving op- 
portunity for delightful drives to the many points of interest in the vicinity, of which 
Pen-Mar and High Rock are the chief. A resident physician, and express, telegraph, 
and post-offices are also among the conveniences ; while an excellent orchestra pro- 
vides music for dancing or entertainment. The four o'clock train from Baltimore in 
the afternoon takes business men out for the night, and a return train leaves Blue 
Mountain at 7.15 in the morning. With such scenery as is afforded all about this 
resort, it ought to be a very paradise in which to rest or spend a few weeks' holiday. 

" So sweet a spot of earth you might, I ween, 
Have guessed some congregation of the elves. 
To sport by summer moons, had shaped it for ihemselves." 




"botural Wond 



ens. 



" Thus Nature works as if to mock at Art, 
And in defiance of her rival powers ; 
By these fortuitous and random strokes, 
Performing such inimitable feats 
As she, with all her rules, can never reach." 

NATURE, in planning and fitting the theatres of the world, was never more 
lavish of fine and startling effects, and yet never more harmonious, than when 
her hand placed the scenery amidst which the nations of the New World are 
playing their part in the great drama. In this land of wonders are amphitheatres 
whose seats rise in tiers of circling ranges of mountains till lost in the clouds, with 
sweeping arenas on which Time may place the great tragedies of the hereafter. 
Here are all the accessories at their best and pleasure-spots innumerable; here water- 
falls where seas have thundered over mighty walls, and others where the stream, leap- 
ing from a giddy height, floats down a rainbow-tinted Bridal Veil; here caves which 
might hide all the bandit bands from Ali Baba's down, and with glittering splendor 
of gorgeous chambers and sculptured grottoes surpass even the fabled homes of the 
sea-kings; immortal statues adorn the western platforms, and grand countenances cut 
from granite rocks look down upon the eastern plains. Romance may revel in won- 
ders where Nature has draped the rocky walls and where sunlight filters down through 
green-bowered banks into glens and chasms filled with sparkling cascades, purling 
brooks and mirror pools; while the supernatural finds an appropriate ground where inky- 
black water boils and bubbles, where streams of hot water pour over barren rocks, where 
steam and gas and sulphurous fumes spit up in jets from the cinder-covered crust, 
where howling, tearing columns of steam and scalding liquids burst from the bowels 
of the earth and fall booming and rumbling back to the flame-circled throne of Satan. 
Where flow the mighty rivers beyond the Mississippi are reared the citadels of 
Nature. Here over thousands of square miles are mountains and architectural piles, 
stately and grand. Castles and abbeys, columns and obelisks, bastions and donjon 
towers, minarets and peaks, turrets and spires lie strewn along the course of an eddy- 
ing, muddy, swift-rolling current, bent in between walls a third of a mile high, over 
which at intervals a newer stream drops, to fall affrighted and trembling on the rocks 
below. Everywhere perpendicular cliffs, the surface worn and eroded, polished 
curves and cunningly-cut figures in varying shades of yellow and red. One region 
bare, rugged and awful; another interspersed with parks and gardens which shame 
the attempts of man. All these and a hundred others, are among the marvelous 
works which, hoary from the hand of Time, are yet all but new to the eye of man. 
As a worthy addition to these wonders of our home are those ancient, sad and sombre 
groves, stupendous pine cathedrals that never shadowed the shrine of a Druid or 
murmured amongst their sighing bows the dread oracle of a deity. 

THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 

The title of "Wonder Land," which has been bestowed upon that immense 
national reservation known as the Yellowstone Park, is aptly applied. The American 
tourist who goes abroad in search of curious things and natural delights before he 



26 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



has visited this marvelous region commits an unmistakable error. The Yellowstone 
National Park is situated along the highest part of that great culminating area of 
North America which has been fitly termed " the crown of the continent." It lies, for 
the most part, in the northeast corner of Wyoming Territory, between the 44th and 
45th parallels of latitude, and reaches from the iioth meridian to a short distance 
beyond the iiith, extending on the west and north for a few miles into the adjacent 

Territories of Montana and Idaho. It is 
a region sixty-five miles long by fifty-five 
miles wide, and covers an area of about 
three thousand five hundred and seventy- 
five square miles; or, to give a still clearer 
idea of its extent, it may be said to be 
large enough to more than contain the 
States of Delaware and Rhode Island. This 
tract of land has, by an Act of Congress, 
been " reserved and withdrawn from settle- 
ment, occupancy or sale under the laws of 
the United States, and dedicated and set 
apart as a public park or pleasure-ground 
for the benefit and enjoyment of the peo- 
ple " forever. The mountain ranges which 
hem in the valleys rise to a height of ten and 
twelve thousand feet, and are covered with 
perpetual snow. The average elevation 
of the country included in the Park is about 
six thousand feet, which is as high as the 
summit of Mount Washington in the White 
Mountains. A fine general view of the 
Park is obtained from the summit of 
Mt. Washington, a central accessible posi- 
tion. 

It would not be possible to adequately 
portray \\r\ these pages all the wonders 
embraced within the confines of this Park. 
Its most striking features are its geysers, 
hot springs, waterfalls and canons. In the 
number (ten thousand, it is said,) and 
magnitude of its hot springs and geysers 
it surpasses all the rest of the world. The 
geysers are the grandest in the universe 
— grandest in the frequency of their erup- 
tions, in the quantity of water they spout, 
and the height to which it is thrown, and 
also in the beaiit}^ of their delicately orna- 
mented and often brilliantly-colored chim- 
neys and basins, built up and adorned by 
the minerals deposited from their hot, 

THE CIANTESS. ^ ' 




OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 27 

silicious waters. They spout columns of boiling water of sizes varying with the 
dimensions of their orifices — from a few inches to twenty feet in diameter — and to 
heights ranging from two hundred and fifty to two hundred and seventy-five feet, 
the eruptions being accompanied by a constant succession of miniature earthquakes, by 
a terrible noise like almost continuous underground thunder, and by the evolution of 
immense masses of steam, which roll up wreath after wreath hundreds of feet above the 
water. These magnificent displays occur with some geysers at fixed periods, as in 
the case of the Old Faithful, which spouts from an orifice seven feet long by two 
feet wide every sixty-five minutes, its eruptions lasting from four to six minutes. It 
is the only geyser in the world which spouts so frequently and with such unfailing 
regularity, whence its name. The most prominent geysers are the Giant and 
Giantess, Old Faithful, the Beehive, the Old Castle, the Grand, Riverside, Comet, 
and Fantail. 

Next to the geysers, as matters of attraction, may be reckoned the Falls and 
Grand Caiion of the Yellowstone River. This river is a tributary of the Missouri. 
Its nominal source is the Yellowstone Lake, though its real beginning is the head of 
the Upper Yellowstone, about twenty-five miles further up in the mountains. The 
vicinity of the source of the Yellowstone marks a point from which pour down to the 
Gulf of Mexico on the southeast, the Gulf of California on the southwest, 
and the Pacific slope on the northwest, the mightiest rivers of both coasts 
of the continent. About fifteen miles below the lake are the Upper Falls 
(one hundred and forty feet abruptly), while the Lower Falls (three hundred 
and ninety-seven feet high, which is two hundred and twenty-six feet higher 
than Niagara), are something over a quarter of a mile farther down, and at the head 
of the Grand Cafion, whose brilliantly-colored portion begins near the picturesque 
Crystal Cascades of Cascade Creek, which, about midway between the two falls, 
leaps over the west wall of the canon in beautiful cascades, one hundred and twenty- 
nine feet high. These cataracts and cascades would justly rank among the great 
wonders of the world if they poured into the most commonplace of gorges, but they 
plunge into an abyss more than twenty miles long, with walls from one thousand to 
three thousand feet high, and perhaps more, for the lower part of the Grand Canon 
has never been explored. This stupendous channel through the Elephant's Back 
mountains is all the way cut through soft volcanic rock, which has eroded into innu- 
merable quaint forms. But wonderful as these falls are for their height, and the 
curious forms into which they have weathered, they are vastly more wonderful be- 
cause, from the water's edge to the top, nature has dyed them with an endless variety 
of the most vivid colors. Surely nothing like it was ever seen out of fairy land. 
Cliffs half a mile and more in height stretch farther than the eye can reach, a mass of 
yellows, from gold to pale straw ; of reds, from deep carmine to softest pink, every- 
where intermingled with coal-black and snow-white, and cream, and buff, and brown, 
and gray, and olive, and russet, the pure blues, greens, and blue-purples, being sup- 
plied by the clear sky, by the patches of vegetation growing in places on the gentler 
slopes, by the evergreen trees clinging here and there along the walls or crowning 
the platter-topped towers, and by the broad pools in which the river lazily whirls and 
rests between the succession of cascades down which it dashes a mass of snow-spray, 
so shrunken to the naked eye by the enormous depth that if often seems a mere silver 
thread strung with emeralds. 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 




It is beyond 
the power of 
language to 
portray the 
marvelous 
grandeur and 
beauty of the 
Grand Canon. 
It has no par- 
ed lei in the 
world. Thro' 
the eye alone 
can any just 
idea be gain- 
e d of its 
strange, fas- 
cinating, unearthly 
blending of the ma- 
jestic and the beauti- 
ful ; and, even in its 
visible presence, the 
mind fails to com- 
prehend the weird and 
unfamiliar, almost in- 
credible scenes it re- 
veals. At the foot 
of the Grand Canon, 
Tower Creek empties 
into the Yellowstone. 
This wonderfully 
beautiful stream has 
its rise in the high 
divide between the 
valleys of the Mis- 
souri and the Yellow- 
stone, and flows for 
about ten miles 
through a canon so 
deep and gloomy that it has earned the 
appellation of " Devil's Den." About two 
hundred yards above its entrance into the 
Yellowstone the stream dashes out from 
among jagged pinnacles and massive towers 
of almost black amygdaloidal lava, and 
pours over an abrupt descent of one hundred 
and fifty-six feet, forming one of the most 
unique and beautiful cataracts to be found 
in any country. These falls, which are 



LOWLR FALLS OF THE 
YELLO^V STONE. 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



29 



about two hundred and sixty feet above the Yellowstone at the mouth of Tower 
Creek, are known as Tower Falls, taking their name, as does also the creek, from the 
columns of volcanic breccia surrounding them. Some of these columns resemble 




towers, others the spires 

of churches, and others 

shoot up as lithe and 

slender as the minarets 

of a mosque. So sharply cut are 

some of these pinnacles and towers 

that one can scarcely believe that they 

have not been chiselled by man. 

It must not be thought that the waters in the Yellowstone National Park are 
always dashing and splashing, and rushing and roaring like the waters that come 
down at Lodore. The countrv embraces lakes whose shores run off into hundreds 



30 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

of miles, and whose surfaces are as clear, placid, and beautiful as any on earth. Yel- 
lowstone Lake, secluded amid the loftiest peaks of the Rocky Mountains, possesses 
strange peculiarities of form and beauty, and is one of the most attractive features of 
the Park. Its superficial area is about three hundred square miles, and its greatest 
depth three hundred feet. Its elevation above the sea is seven thousand four hundred 
and twenty-seven feet, which is but little lower than the high lakes of Colorado and 
Lake Titicaca in South America. It receives no tributaries of any considerable size, 
its clear, cold water coming from the snows that fall on the lofty mountain ranges that 
hem it in on every side. In the early part of the day, when the air is still and the 
bright sunshine falls on its surface, its bright green color, shading to a delicate ultra- 
marine, commands the admiration of every beholder. Later in the day when the 
mountain winds come down from their icy heights, it puts on an aspect more in accord- 
ance with the fierce wilderness around it. It contains several beautiful islands, and 
is of so irregular form as to give an uncommon beauty alike to its bold, bluff shores, 
and its stretches of sandy, pebbly beaches. Its waters swarm with salmon-trout, and 
are the summer home of countless swans, pelicans, geese, brants, gulls, snipe, ducks, 
cranes, herons, and other waterfowl, while its shores, sometime grassy, but generally 
clothed wuth dense forest of pine, spruce, and fir, furnish coverts and feeding-ground 
for elk, antelope, black and white-tailed deer, bears, and mountain sheep. Scattered 
along the shores of the lake, and on the mountain slopes which overlook it are many 
clusters of hot springs, solfataras, fumaroles, and small geysers. At one point a hot 
spring, boiling up in the edge of the lake, has deposited the mineral carried in solu- 
tion by its waters, and built up a rocky rim about itself, so that wading out into the 
lake you can climb on the rim of the spring, and standing there you can catch trout 
out of the cold water of the lake, and without moving from your track, can turn 
round and cook them in the spring. 

Twelve miles down the Yellowstone the " Devil's Den" forms an entrance, like a 
"hallway, into a rock wall, from which flows boiling, sulphurous water. Clouds 6f 
sulphurous, suffocating steam constantly puff from this opening. Here, too, "Mud 
Volcano" roars like a tempest, and flings hot mud in all directions during an erup- 
tion. Near the "Devil's Den" is Brimstone Mountain, where pure sulphur may be 
shovelled by the cart-load. 

The Hot Springs of Gardiner's River are to be reckoned among the great won- 
ders of this marvelous region. They are among the first things to claim the tourist's 
especial attention on entering the Park from the northwest from Bozeman, Fort 
Ellis and the Bottler Brothers' ranch. Below Tower Falls and the mouth of the Grand 
Canon, at the lower end of what is known as the Third Caiion, Gardiner's River, a 
mountain torrent twenty yards wide, cuts through a deep and gloomy gorge and enters 
the Yellowstone. At this point the Yellowstone shrinks to half its usual size, losing 
itself among huge granite boulders, which choke up the stream and create alternate 
pools and rapids swarming with trout. Worn into fantastic forms by the washing 
waters these immense rock-masses give an aspect of peculiar wildness to the scenery. 
But the crowning wonder of this region is the group of hot springs on the slope of a 
mountain four miles up the valley of Gardiner's River. The level or terrace upon 
which the principal active springs are located is about midway up the sides of the 
mountain. " G. H. B.," the famous newspaper correspondent, who spent the latter 
part of April and the first days of May of last year in the Yellowstone Park, writes as 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



31 



follows of the Hot Springs and other grand and grotesquely beautiful freaks of nature 
in this region : " By an ascending pathway we reached a plateau of dead-level table- 
land, from which is gained a full view- of the sixty-seven springs in the valley. 
White terraces frosted with the salt crystals gleam in the sunshine. The terraces are 
fourteen in number, rising from the river. Here and there columns of steam and jets 
of boiling water are fiung'high in mid-air from their caldrons below. Singularly, the 
hottest spring is fou'nd upon the highest terrace. The gorge in which they are located 
is 1,000 feet above the level of the Gardiner River. These springs, bubbling and boil- 
ing in their basins, have washed deposits of lime from terrace to terrace, forming 
great reservoirs rim- ~~-^ 



med with delicate 
lime lacework, and 
hung with strands of 
seeming ivory beads; 
crystal formations in 
brilliant coloring, 
luminous tints and 
shades, terraces and 
pools frosted like lace- 
work, keep the eye 
dancingand the imag- 
ination at fever heat. 
As if placed there by i^^«^**l 
art, a central spring 
adorns each terrace. 
These are surrounded 
by a large basin, over 
the rim of which the 
water flows down the declivity, forming 
hundreds of reservoirs, their margins 
fringed with exquisite tracery, like lace 
and bead work. To these add glittering 
stalagmites, stalactites and grottoes 
painted with the colors of the rainbow, 
brilliant and fresh, and you are in the presence of a I ; 
scene such as the world nowhere else holds." Ij v \ \ 

The drawbacks to visiting this interesting region are 
twofold: the tediousness and great expense of the trip and the lack of accommoda- 
tions when there. It is a long journey from any part of the East to Yellowstone 
Park, and rendered more difficult, tiresome and expensive by reason of the long stage- 
ride beyond the railway terminus. By way of the Union Pacific route tourists are 
obliged to change at Ogden to the Utah and Northern Railroad, which takes them 
to Beaver Cafion. From this point there is two or three days of staging over a 
distance of no miles to the Firehole Basin. Stage fare for the round trip is $25. 
By the North Pacific route the railway stops at Livingston, whence there is also two 
or three days' staging to the northern boundary of the Park. When all this is over- 
come there is little chance of living comfortably while seeing the wonders of the 




M\MM01U HOI 
SPRINGS. 



32 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

locality, except for parties who combine in sufficient strength to provide their own 
commissary and camping facilities, which involves great expense. The sctteme of 
Uncle Rufus Hatch and his company of speculators to get possession of the Park, 
with enormous privileges, was partially frustrated by Congress, and it appears their 
anticipations of enormous profits from the tremendous influx of tourists have so far 
failed of realization. They -have, however, one or two comfortable hotels now in 
running order, and in a few years, when railway facilities are extended further into 
the Park, a tour of it may be made with greater ease, if not with less expense. 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

Probably a larger proportion of people have seen Niagara than any other "won- 
der" of this continent. It has been admired, and written about and wondered at, 
since the American colonies were first settled, until to say anything new or fresh con- 
cerning it has become a task of exceeding difficulty. In a lecture recently delivered 
in New York, Rev. Robert Collyer stated that he had in his possession a book written 
by an Englishman, describing his visit to the Falls eighty years ago. Such was the 
world-wide fame of the wonderful cataract that no foreign tourist, even then, considered 
that he had seen one-half of the wonders of this wonderful country without a visit to the 
Falls. The trip up the Hudson took four days, and the writer of the book had among his 
fellow-tourists an aristocratic federalist — for there were aristocrats in those days — 
and a clergyman, who was very drunk. It took from the 2d of July to the 23d of Au- 
gust to reach the Falls, and the end of the trip was made by following an Indian trail. 
The grandeur of the Falls compensated for all the pains, and was the only thing the 
irascible Englishman did not grumble at during the long journey. Such was Niagara 
at the beginning of the century. 

This great cataract cannot be described. Its dimensions may be given — its 
height and breadth and volume told — but still much is lacking. Words cannot con- 
vey an adequate impression of its stupendousness. Charles Dickens, when he first 
visited America, felt himself unable to describe the scene, and only succeeded in elo- 
quently sketching his emotions. "When we were seated in the little ferry-boat," he 
says, "and were crossing the swollen river immediately before both cataracts, I began 
to feel what it was; but I was in a manner stunned, and unable to comprehend the 
vastness of the scene. It was not until I came on Table Rock and looked — great 
heavens! on what a fall of bright-green water — that it came upon me in its full might 
and majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an image of beauty, to 
remain there changeless and indelible until its pulses cease to beat forever. I think 
in every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap and roll and 
tumble all day long; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below. 
Still, when the sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when 
the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front of a 
great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But always does the 
mighty stream appear to die as it comes down, and always from the unfathomable 
grave arises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid." 

Niagara Falls are situated on the Niagara River, nearly midway between Lake 
Erie and Lake Ontario. About a mile above the cataract the river is one continua- 
tion of rapids, which finally terminate in a perpendicular fall of 146 feet on the 
American side and 158 on the Canadian. Goat Island, a quarter of a mile wide and 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



33 



half a mile in length, 
extends to the very brow 
of the precipice, dividing 
the falls into two por- 
tions, the higher of which 
is on the American side, 
while the greater width 
is on the Canada side. 
The volume of water 
which constantly pours 
over this immense preci- 
pice and the power with 
which it sweeps every- 
thing before it is appall- 
ing. No living thing has 
ever been known to go 
over and come out of the 
whirlpool below alive. 
A pine board floated over 
soon comes to the surface 
in splinters. About fifty 
years ago a vessel loaded 
with live animals went 
over the Falls, and such J 
was the eagerness of the 
sojourners at the hotels 
to see the sight that 
many of them jumped d*?pi 
up from their dinners -^M^_ 
and forgot to return to 
pay their bills. The deep- p:^=§m 
green color of the water ^iifillgiii^, 
and the effect in contrast "l^iiiHilii 
with the white foam can- 3??S^|i|iPl 
not be portrayed with 
pen, nor scarcely with f 
painter's brush, though 
Church's famous picture 
in the Corcoran Gallery 
at Washington is marvel- 
ously near to it. A beauti- 
ful rainbow rests above 
the water a few rods 
below the whirlpool, 
where the sun's rays are 
reflected through the 
mists, and is visible from 




THE AMERICAN FALLS. 



34 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

morning till night in clear weather. Considerable changes have taken place 
during recent years by the falling down of masses of rock causing a slight 
recession of the cataract at some points. Table Rock, once a striking feature 
on the Canadian side, has wholly disappeared. The chief points of interest 
to the visitor are Goat Island, reached by a bridge 360 feet long ; Luna Island, 
the Cave of the Winds, a spacious recess beneath and back of the American 
fall, and the Suspension Bridge below. The Old Terrapin Tower, which formerly 
stood out in the stream 50 or 100 yards from Goat Island, from which a magnificent 
view was formerly obtained, became unsafe and was blown up with gunpowder in 
1873. Of late years the owners of property about the Falls have fenced in all the 
approaches and points of interest for the purpose of exacting a charge for viewing 
them. The Legislature of New York has been considering means of getting control 
of the property to make it a free park for all time, as it should be. Niagara is reached 
from New York by the West Shore and New York Central railways ; from Boston by 
the Boston & Albany, thence by the West Shore, or by the Norwich Line to New 
York ; from Washington, Baltimore and Philadelphia by the Pennsylvania and North- 
ern Central, and from the North and West via the Grand Trunk line. The hotel ac- 
commodations are ample and excellent. It is a famous place for bridal couples, being 
equaled only by Washington in this respect. 

There is one certain thing, says the author of " Rambles of a Journalist," about 
Niagara : it can have no rival. Saratoga may become antiquated — the seashore a re- 
sort only for invalids ; fashions may change in regard to pleasure resorts ; rival 
locations may compete by opposing attractions. But Niagara can have no rival. 
The flood will sweep on over the precipice, the waters will boil and foam, struggle 
and heave down the rapids, rushing on forever, and the roar of the cataract will be 
there forever. In all the world there is but one Niagara, and all the world will visit 
the mighty show. You may build up a city there, make long streets and line them 
with houses, and crowd them with people, and strip it of the things that Nature 
spread out all around it ; you may construct canals and erect machinery, but still the 
great cataract will be there, and the world will travel hundreds and thousands of miles 
to see it. They will go to the brow of the prcipice to look down, and to the base of 
the precipice to look up. They will involve themselves in the mist and spray for the 
sake of gazing upon the rainbow that is above them. They will ramble on Goat Island 
by moonlight, listening to the roar of the waters, or enjoy its cool and pleasant shades 
at noonday. You may roll your great water-wheels in their ceaseless rounds ; you 
may harness your machinery and set your great hammers in motion ; your hundred 
strong hands may hurl the ponderous sledge against the ringing anvil ; you may set 
your ten thousand puny machinists at pounding the iron and driving the spikes ; 
make all the noise you can — and the roar of the cataract will drown it all. 

WATKINS GLEN. 

A few years ago but little was known of this picturesque and interesting summer 
resort beyond the confines of the county in which it is located; while to-day, it is 
renowned the world over for its wonderful scenery, which, differing in all its charac- 
teristics from any other remarkable locality of natural interest, gives it as distinct an 
individuality as the Falls of Niagara, Mammoth Cave, or Yosemite Valley. The 
Glen lies west of and partly within the village of Watkins, in Schuyler Co., N. Y., 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



35 



and near the head of Seneca Lake, twenty miles in a N. E. direction from Elmira, 
and forty from Geneva. Watkins is on the Northern Central Railway, which is con- 
tinuous without change of cars from Washington, Baltimore & Philadelphia. It con- 
tains about three thousand inhabitants, and is beautifully situated within the shadow 
of Glen Mountain. Seneca Lake is one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the 
world, and is entirely framed about with "precipitous, black, jagged rocks," and 
clean pebbly beaches. There is not a rod of swamp about its entire circumterence, 
consequently it breeds no malaria and no 
mosquitoes. Excursions upon the lake to its 
many points of interest, in addition to the 
attractions of the Glen, have made Watkins 
one of the most popular resorts in the country. 

The Glen is a vertical rift or gorge in a 
mountainous bluff, with walls varying in 
height from two hundred to nearly four 
hundred feet, through which rushes a mountain 
brook of purest water; now roaring and tumb- 
ling over rocks in foaming cascades, again 
plunging over ledges in beautiful falls, and 
anon eddying about in quiet little lakelets in 
the deep ravine; down upon which from high 
rugged crags or rustic little bridges the tourist 
may look and meet his or her face in the 
water. The Glen is divided into sections, each 
of which is given a distinctive name in accord 
with some one of its many beautiful or strange 
and wonderful features. The division at en- 
trance is called Glen Alpha, and the section at 
the terminus, about three miles above, is called 
Glen Omega. Near the latter point the Glen 
is crossed by the Syracuse, Geneva & Corning 
Railway, by an iron bridge at a height of one 
hundred and sixty-five feet ten inches above 
the water, one of the handsomest in the State. 
A short distance above the entrance to Glen Alpha, at a 
height of nearly one hundred feet, reached by a beautiful 
stairway broken by platforms for resting-places, is a broad, 
safe bridge across the chasm, from which an excellent view 
of Minnehaha Falls is obtained, whiqh is one of the 
prettiest cascades in the Glen. Farther up the rocks assume 
all sorts of fanciful shapes, impending, depending, and 
quite perpendicular, until at a point the high and rugged walls draw 
close together forming Cavern Cascade, where the water falls over the rocks nearly a 
hundred feet into a cavernous pool below. 

The tourist has, for some distance below this point, been^ traversing a narrow 
footpath cut out of the face of solid rock, which he now leaves, and climbs "the " long 
staircase across the chasm, ascends for nearly another hundred feet at an angle of 
ninety degrees to another footpath on the other side of the Glen. 




36 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



From this point the path leads around moss-covered rocks, along steep rocky- 
slopes and ledges and up a wonderfully-constructed stairway to the platform of the 
" Swiss Cottage," perched on a sort of natural shelf, one hundred feet above the level 
of the stream, and three hundred feet above the entrance of the'''|Glen, overlooking 
Cavern Cascade, and nestling among the trees and shrubbery. From the veranda 
of the Swiss Cottage is had a fine view of the main building across the Glen, known 

as the " Glen Mountain House." 
This charming hostelry, so fa- 
miliar to thousands who have 
patronized it, is the only hotel 
connected with the Glen, and 
one of its most pleasing features 
is the novelty of situation of its 
dining-room, which is in the 
Swiss Cottage above referred to, 
across the Glen and away from 
the hotel proper, thereby avoid- 
ing all unpleasant odors arising 
from cooking, noise and confu- 
sion occasioned by servants, and 
heat from ranges and ovens. 
There is a beautiful and sub- 
stantial covered walk across a 
strongly-built iron suspension 
bridge between the buildings, 
protecting tourists from sun and 
storm, which makes the Glen 
Mountain House one of the most 
delightfully-cool, and pleasant- 
ly-situated summer hotels, and 
altogether a winsome spot. It is 
capable of accommodating three 
hundred persons ; is well fur- 
nished, and provided with all 
the comforts and conveniences 
found in any first-class hotel. 
All visitors to the Glen are wel- 
come to inspect its spacious 
apartments, rest upon its delight- 
fully-cool piazzas, or indulge in any of the amusements provided on the grounds or 
in the " Amusement Hall." Close at hand is Capt. Hope's " Glen Art Gallery," filled 
with some of the choicest bits of the Glen scenery transferred to canvas by his own 
hand, and to which all the guests of the Glen Mountain House have " free " access. 
Leaving the Swiss Chalet, the path descends almost to the bed of the stream, 
and passing the Sylvan Rapids enters the Glen Cathedral, an enormous amphitheatre, 
which is considered the most imposing feature of the wonderful gorge. It is one 
thousand feet long, with walls of solid rock rising perpendicularly to a height of three 




MAMMOTH GORGE. 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 37 

hundred feet, while the floor is almost as level as though paved by human hands. 
Into this mighty chasm the waters spring with a frightful headlong leap, bathing the 
sides with feathery spray, then quietly spreading over the rocky floor from the lovely 
pool of the Nymphs. From north side of the Cathedral, the grand staircase leads to 
the Glen of Pools, so named from the number of its water-worn basins. Beyond the 
Glen of Pools the Giant's Gorge is reached, at the upper end of which are the exqui- 
site Rainbow Falls, one of the most interesting and beautiful features of the Glen, 
where three cascades drop from one rocky ledge to another, foaming and seething, 
while to one side a thin stream falling from a great height spreads itself out like a 
silver mist, and mingles its waters with those in the rock-bound channel far below. 
The especial points of interest between this spot and Glen Omega, are Glen Arcadia, 
Pluto Falls, Glen Horicon, Glen Elysium, and Artist's Dream, besides which there are 
a hundred others in this marvelous Glen, each possessing particular features of inter- 
est — spots where hours may be spent in watching the restless waters pouring down 
from rocky heights, leaping over huge boulders, or sweeping across smooth beds of 
shining pebbles. It is a singular fact that nowhere upon the American Continent 
can such a range of vegetation be found within such narrow limits. Especially 
among the lower orders, plants are here found that are indigenous to Tennessee and 
the Carolinas. Stunted firs, mosses, and lichens, that are rarely seen south of the 
Hudson's Bay country, are here represented. The fern family is largely repre- 
sented, and some of the most beautiful specimens are found. Watkins Glen is 
reached from Baltimore via the Northern Central Railway ; from Philadelphia via 
Pennsylvania to Harrisburg and Northern Central Railway, or Philadelphia and Read- 
ing and Lehigh Valley to Elmira, and via Northern Central Railway ; from New 
York and the West by the Erie Railway to Elmira, and thence via Northern Central 
Railway, or by the New York Central Railway to Geneva, and thence via the elegant 
steamers of the Seneca Lake Steam Navigation Company. 

THE CAVERNS OF LURAY. 

The now famous Luray Cave in Virginia is a comparatively recent discovery, its 
existence having been first learned on the 13th of August, 1879, ^'^d not made publicly 
known until some time thereafter. The conical hill on the Newmarket pike, about a 
mile from the village of Luray, in Page County, had long been known as Cave Hill, 
from the existence of a small cave near its summit; but the significance of certain 
sink-holes and standing ponds along its sides and about its base was not understood 
or suspected until a short time previous to the date above named. Mr. B. P. Steb- 
bins, a photographer from Easton, Md., appeared in the locality, and, conceiving the 
view from surface indications that a cave lay beneath the hill, induced several of the 
villagers to join him in the search for it. Together they went prospecting about the 
country, digging here and there, without success, until they were nicknamed "cave- 
hunters " and became the objects of good-natured ridicule. Their fellow-townsmen 
declared they were mistaking rabbits' holes for mares' nests and jumping rabbits for 
sprightly young colts. But finally the right hole was explored, and a depression in 
the hillside proved to be the entrance to the long-sought cave. One of the party — 
which now consisted only of Mr. Stebbins and Messrs. A. J. and Wm. B. Campbell — 
was lowered by means of a rope into the pit, and found himself in a narrow rift about 
fifteen feet long by five wide, with no apparent outlet. Closer examination disclosed 



38 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



a hole, through which, with some difficulty, he passed into a large open space, now 
known as Entrance Hall. Having abandoned the rope which connected him with his 
companions, he surveyed for some time with rapt interest the strange scene presented 
to his sight. The rest of the party becoming alarmed at his absence, another of their 
number was lowered in search of him. Together they returned to the upper world, 
and at night the party resumed their explorations with candles, getting as far as 
Muddy Lake — then a considerable body^of water, since drained and replaced by a 
dry cement walk — by which they were stopped and left in ignorance of the largest 
and grandest part of the cave. These, briefly condensed from Prof. Ammen's work, 
are the circumstances of the discovery of this great natural wonder. About two years 
later the property passed into the hands of the Luray Cave and Hotel Company, 
identical in interest with the Shenandoah Valley Railway Company, by whom nu- 
merous improvements have been made looking to the attraction and comfort of visi- 
tors. A handsome cottage has been built over the mouth of the cave, through which 
entrance, is made, and in the interior cement walks, plank platforms, stairways, and 
railings have been provided wherever needed. The tallow candles formerly employed 
to illuminate the cave have been replaced with thirteen electric lights. 

Entering the cave one is possessed of the feeling of having passed into a new 
state of being. Queer shapes present themselves at every turn, aping grotesquely 
the things of our past experience. Every object suggests some growth'of animal or 
vegetable life, yet every resemblance proves illusive. There are glittering stalactites 




VIRGIN FONT. 



and fluted columns strong enough to bear a world; draperies in broad folds and a 
thousand tints; cascades of snow-white stone; and, beyond, a background of pitchy 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



19 



darkness in which the imagination locates more than the eye can see. But shortly the 
visitor begins to examine the objects more closely. First to attract attention is Wash- 
ington's column, a fluted, massive stalagmite about twenty-five feet in diameter by 




LLRAV INN. 



thirty in height, reaching from floor to ceiling. Stalactites depend on every side. 
From the center of the roof one descends as aptly as if nature had designed it to sup- 
port a chandelier. Passing on through Entrance Avenue there is seen a rounded bank 
of drip-stone, fringed beneath with semblances of dangling legs. Further on is the 
Flower Garden, a space enclosed with natural stalagmitic border and containing 
bulb-shaped stalagmites resembling bunches of asparagus, cauliflower, cabbages, etc., 
according to one's fancy. Beyond this is the Fish Market, where are distinctly seen 
hanging rows of fish — black bass, silver perch, mackerel and, as the guide facetiously 
calls them, "rock" fish, and other varieties. The Smithsonian report says there is no 
difficulty about identifying the various species, some being gray all over, others 
having black backs and white bellies. The Elfin Ramble is a vast open plateau, esti- 
mated to be 500 feet in length by 300 in breadth. Still further on is Pluto's Chasm, 
the rift through which the god is supposed to have borne Proserpine to the under 
world. It yawns in a startling way, attaining a depth of seventy-five feet and a length 
of 500. At the bottom is the Spectre, a tall, white, fluted stalactite, covered about the 
upper part with a fringe of snowy draperies and suggesting a meditative ghost. It 
is impossible to estimate correctly the age of the cave or its formations. The rate of 
growth of cave formations varies with a score of circumstances, so that no general 
rule can be invariably applied. A tumbler standing five years under the drip of a 
stalactite was incrusted to the depth of an eighth of an inch. At this rate of growth, 
supposing all the conditions to be exceptionally favorable, a column one foot in 
diameter might be formed in two hundred and forty years. Under ordinary circum- 
stances, however, it would perhaps require several thousands, some reckoners say tens 
of thousands of years. Dr. Porter, of Lafayette, College, a distinguished scientist, 
in a recent lecture, quotes an eminent brother scientist as saying, concerning the 
Fallen Column, a gigantic formation weighing one hundred and seventy tons, that 
"four thousand years must has passed since its fall and seven millions of years were 
consumed in its formation." This calculation is based upon the probable time which, in 
his opinion, it took to grow the vertical stalactites which have formed upon it as it lies. 
Luray is on the line of the Shenandoah Valley Railroad. To reach it from New 



40 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



York, Philadelphia and the North and West, take the Pennsylvania or Baltimore & 
Ohio railroads. From Baltimore take the Western Maryland Railroad. From 
Washington, Cincinnati and the South and Southwest take the through cars of the 
Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. An inn is located near the station owned by the 
Shenandoah Valley Railway Company, but its accommodations are not extensive. 
The place is not a resort in the accepted sense, but an objective point for excursions 
from stopping-places within a day's journey. 

DELAWARE WATER GAR 

This peculiarly beautiful and picturesque resort, known to tourists far and wide, 
is also one of the curious freaks of nature. The name "Water Gap" is given to that 




WATER GAP HOUSE. 



point in the course of the Delaware River where it forces its way through the Kitta- 
tinny or Blue Ridge Mountains. Mount Minsi and Tammany form the walls of the 
Gap, their almost precipitous sides rising against the horizon to a height of a thousand 
feet, approaching each other closely as if in determination to bar the river's course. 
Indeed, it is believed they did so at one time in the thousands of years agone. The 
Indians gave to the valley north of the Blue Ridge and above the Gap the name of 
"Minnisink," or "Whence the Waters are Gone.". "Here," says a writer, "a vast 
lake once probably extended, and whether the great body of water wore its way 
through th» mountain by a fall like Niagara, or burst through a gorge, or whether 



OUR iVATURAL WONDERS. 41 

the mountains uprose in convulsion upon its margin, it is certain that the Minnisink 
country bears the mark of aqueous action in its diluvial soil, and in its rounded hills, 
built of pebbles and boulders." 

The attractions of the Delaware River, which, above Trenton, is one of the most 
picturesquely-beautiful streams in the United States, culminate at the Water Gap, 
and form a location equaled by few in the country in its adaptation to the purpose 
of health and pleasure. An organization of gentlemen from New York and Philadel- 
phia, yclept the " Minsi Pioneers," through a long course of systematic and well- 
directed labor, have opened a great number of paths and rambles upon the mountain 
side, and have thus added a feature to the other attractions of the Gap which is of 
inestimable value. These rambles are practically exhaustless in fine views aud situa- 
tions, and all along the route are scattered seats and rustic summer-houses for their 
pleasant contemplation. The summit of Mount Minsi is easily accessible to carriages, 
and from its narrow crest, scarcely more than fifty feet wide, a panoramic view may 
be obtained of vast extent and varied and unexcelled beauty. Prominent among the 
especial points of interest, and which afford objective points for a pleasant ramble, are 
Eureka Glen, famed as the favorite of George W. Childs, and rendered accessible 
through his liberal expenditures by a succession of rustic bridges and stairways, and 
Moss Cataract, Diana's Bath, and Caldeno Falls, located on Caldeno Creek, a little 
stream which takes its rise in the Hunter's Spring, a cool and sequestered spot far up 
in Minsi Mountain, though quite easily reached by a path. There are pleasant drives 
to a score or more points of interest. 

In the social life at the Gap there is none of the gayety and excitement which 
characterize our sea-side resorts, and there are few allurements for the votaries of 
fashion. All that is best, however, in representative American people is fairly repre- 
sented. The daily life and occupation are conspicuous in the absence of all conven- 
tional restraints, and are characterized by as much freedom as life in a country farm- 
house, while, at the same time, the hotel accommodations provide all comforts and 
conveniences. Delaware Water Gap is one hundred and eight miles distant from Phila- 
delphia, and ninety-two miles from New York. It is reached from the former place by 
the Belvidere division of the Pennsylvania Railroad, and from the latter via the Dela- 
ware, Lackawanna & Western, from foot of Barclay Street. The hotel accommodations 
are excellent. The Water Gap House standing high up on the cliff overlooking the river 
and "gorge," as well as a large extent of country, is one of the most complete sum- 
mer hotels. It is supplied with electric bells, running water and gas, and also a tele- 
graph office. Two mails from Philadelphia and New York are received daily. The 
run from either place is made in 3)^ hours. 

NATURAL BRIDGE, VA. 

One of the well-known natural curiosities of our land is very well illustrated by 
the subjoined illustration. It is visited every season by large numbers of tourists 
though it can only be reached by a stage ride of two miles from the Natural Bridge 
station on the Richmond and Alleghany Railroad, which connects with the Chesa- 
peake & Ohio at Lynchburg. The place can not be termed a summer resort, though 
a typical Virginia hotel in the vicinity undertakes to provide accommodations for 
those who are willing to stop. The external arch of this curious structure, massive, 
yet light and graceful, rises above the wild, rugged, yawning gorge to the height of 



42 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



one hundred and twenty feet. The average height of the neighboring cliffs is about 
two hundred and fifty feet. The span of the arch is ninety-three feet, its average width 

eighty, and its 
thickness in the 
centre fifty-five 
feet. It does not 
cross the chasm 
preciselyatright 
angles, but in an 
oblique direc- 
tion. While the 
cliffs are perpen- 
dicular, and in 
some places 
overhanging, the 
abutments un- 
der the arch ap- 
p r o ac h until 
their bases are 
not more than 
fifty feet apart. 
Above, with its 
outline of tree 
and rock cutting 
sharp against 
the blue sky, this 
uniquestructure 




unites Its tre- '"; 

mendous but- 
tresses high in 
mid - air, while 

beneath its stern shadow the eye can 
mark, in fair perspective,rocks, trees, 
hill-tops, and distantsailing clouds. 



\ATl RAL BRIDGE, VIRGINIA. 
{Fiovt Outittg and The Wheelman, Boston, Mass. 



OUR NATURAL WONDERS. 



TRENTON FALLS, NEW YORK. 

In all the world there is, perhaps, no stream which in the same space presents so 
many and various shapes of running and falling water, as does the West Canada 
Creek at Trenton Falls. This lovely spot, which is much frequented as a summer 
resort, embraces scenery altogether unique in its character, as combining at once the 
beautiful, the romantic, and the magnificent. Trenton Falls is situated^in the central 
part of New York State, on the line of the Utica & Black River railroad, eighteen 
miles north of Utica. The Falls, consisting of five cataracts and a series of cascades 
of unexcelled picturesqueness and 
beauty, are a part of the West Can- 
ada Creek, the main branch of the 
Mohawk River. The Indians gave 
to the Falls the beautiful and de- 
scriptive name of " Kang-a-hoo-ra " 
— Leaping Water — and such it lit- 
erally is, for here the stream flows 
for two miles through a ravine or 
chasm from seventy to two hun- 
dred feet deep, descending three 
hundred and twelve feet in one 
continuous succession of cataracts, 
cascades, and rapids — rushing, roar- 
ing, dashing, whirling, leaping and 
plunging throughout the entire 
course. A tour of the ravine is made 
by paths cut in the sides of the 
rocks, and by staircases leading 
from the lower to the higher points, 
as at Watkins' Glen and Ausable 
Chasm. By the changes made in 
these paths during the past two 
years new views have been opened 
from the heights, several of which 
present scenes that neither pen nor 
pencil can catch. The descent into 
the ravine is made easy and safe 
by five pairs of stairs with railings, leading from the bank down one hundred feet 
to a broad pavement, level with the water's edge, a furious rapid being in front that 
has cut down the rock still deeper. The first impression of the tourist upon reach- 
ing this subterranean world is astonishment at the change; but, recovering instantly, 
his attention is forthwith directed to the magnificence of the scene. The paths 
extend for upward of two miles along the water's side, introducing the visitor at 
every step to beautiful and ever-changing views. The principal falls are the Lower 
Falls thirty-three feet in perpendicular height ; Sherman Falls, thirty-five feet from 
a shelving rock into a dark pool below ; High Falls, one hundred and nine feet ; and 
Mill-dam Falls, fourteen feet in height. To reach Trenton Falls from New York take 
the West Shore Railroad to Utica and change to the cars of the Black River Road. 




bird's-eye view ok TRENTON FALLS. 



Mealti} \esonts of ti^i 




" Know'st thou the land where the lemon trees bloom, 

Where the gold orange grows in the green thicket's gloom, 
Where the wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows, 
And groves are of myrtle and orange and rose?" 

DURING the last few years all that region of country comprising Northern 
Georgia, Western North Carolina, portions of South Carolina and Florida, has 
been steadily growing in favor among that large class of people who, from 
choice or necessity, wish to escape the rigor of a Northern climate. Portions of this 
region especially the mountainous part of Western North 

Carolina, known as the '^^^^ " ^^"^ °^ ^^^ ^^^'" ^^ ^^^° famous 

for its delightful sum- '"'^^^^^gfc mer resorts, while Asheville, Aiken, 

and some other points -^''^^^^^m^ aresought by invalids at all seasons. 

Oddly-shaped i^^^^aT ^P Florida is, as a rule, the first objec- 

tive point of the 'Jij^S^^"^^ '^ winter traveler South, a country on 

*"' the edge of the tropics, 

whose Everglades, 
swamps, and strange 
rivers bordered by lux- 
uriant vegetation, 
give one an im- 
pression of the 
freaks of nature 
run wild. Jack- 
sonville, the larg- 
est city and capi- 
tal of Florida, on 
the St. Johns Riv- 
er, about twenty- 
five miles from the 
mouth, is model- 
ed on Northern 
plans, with shady 
streets crossing at right 
angles. It is a popular 
stopping-place, and enjoys 
a busy winter season. The 
equable temperature is a 
charm in itself, while there 
-^ are many pleasant excur- 
sions on the river and 
good views on the fine 
shell roadways. Those who must 
have the city as a resort may 




HEALTH RESORTS OF THE SOUTH. 45 

linger, but to get an idea of tropical scenery, one must go by steamboat down the 
St. Johns. Beyond Jacksonville, three hundred miles from its source, the river rolls 
along, now a stream a half mile wide, and now a lake two, or perhaps six miles wide 
— the low banks netted over with a growth all its own, — a jungle of vines clambering 
over thickets, and on the hammocks rows of cotton-wood, the juniper, which sweetens 
and preserves the waters that glimmer black and deep in the half-hidden recesses, the 
red cedar, the sweet gum, the white and black ash, the redolent magnolia, the water-oak, 
and the glistening, richly dressed palmettoes — and at their feet a maze of shrubbery, 
amongst which the azalea, the sensitive plant, the sumach, the agave, the nettle and the 
poppy are prominent. All these laden thickets are bound together by running arms and 
tendrils of the fox-grape, while the woodbine and the bignonia clamber up the great 
trees and nod in the breeze above. On a jutting cape the heron and the crane, pensively, 
yet knowingly, eye the steamer at a safe distance; a splash in the depths beyond marks 
the spot where a turtle has dropped from a log, or tells that the grinning alligator has 
taken the hint sent from the chambers of a half-dozen revolvers, and "will see you later." 
Along the riverside, at intervals, are homes lying among handsome shade trees, invit- 
ing landing-points, and villages and towns. Some eleven miles above Jacksonville, 
Mulberry Grove is passed, a charming spot for a picnic. A few miles farther on is 
Mandarin, the winter home of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe; then past the high 
Magnolia Point and into Green Cove Springs, whose clear green and limpid waters 
rush out at the rate of three thousand gallons a minute, and are overhung by 
streamers of gray moss and mistletoe depending from the branches of the encircling 
oaks; by Picolata, with its old Spanish memories, and on the other side an ancient 
fort; by Tocoi and several little landings, road stations and orange groves, to Palatka, 
the largest town on the way, with a climate made to order and comforts for the invalid. 
Above Palatka nature runs wild and frolics everywhere, while the river rolls along in 
moderation till, just above Welaka and twenty-five miles from Palatka, it widens into 
Little Lake George, four miles wide and seven miles long, and then into Lake 
George, twelve miles wide and eighteen miles long. There is scarcely a 
lovelier sheet of water in the world than this lake, while the entrance and the exit are all 
its own. The surface is dotted with islets that are bowers of vines and flowers, 
where the creepers run down to the water's edge and repeat their grace and exquisite 
colors in the mirror below; and here and there are islands under cultivation, with the 
golden spheres hanging from the midst of the rich, dark-green foliage of the orange 
groves. Around the curves and on the shores the scene is filled by the pelican, the 
heron, the curlew or the loon, and the flight of brightly-plumaged birds, while 
throughout the clumps of trees the gentle breeze wafts the sweet notes of Southern 
songsters. Leaving this beautiful spot and passing a succession of forts and landings, 
Blue Spring, forty miles above, is reached, where mineral waters gush out in a strong 
stream, so clear that the fish can be seen darting about below the shadow of the boat. 
Further south is Lake Monroe, twelve miles long and five wide, with Mellonville on 
one side, and Enterprise, the head of regular steamboat navigation and a popular 
resort, on the other. 

Twenty-five miles south of Palatka, opposite Welaka, the Ocklawaha, after flow- 
ing three hundred miles, empties into the St. Johns. There are no banks to this 
peculiar stream, which is but a channel through a long series of lakes and cypress 
swamps. The funny, cranky little steamboat puffs into the cypress-shaded opening, 



46 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



and winds its way along a river whose only boundaries are blazes on the trunks of 
towering trees. The hull bumps against butts of the cypresses and the hidden 
stumps, and the experience in this line of navigation is odd and original in itself. 

Curving around the densely- 
wooded turns, one may see 
ahead a mound covered with 
tall, slender palmettoes, from 
whose branches sway gray, 
fine mosses, and sometimes 
rods and rods of figured 
patches .of swaying, beauti- 
fully-flowered convolvuluses. 
Another turn and the boat 
swings into a green-canopied 
retreat, where the interlaced 
and tangled vegetation over- 
head shuts out the sunlight 
and makes a dark cavern 
below. At the other side, on 
a dead cypress, in a solemn 
row sit a number of buzzards, 
waiting for nature to add 
the final touches to a dead al- 
ligator before the feast. The 
swamps on each side abound 
in birds of many varieties; 
the water-turkey or snake- 
bird, hiding his body among 
the foliage, with his long 
neck and head protruding, 
or^eluding the hunter by dropping into the water and diving to safety; and the white 
crane, conspicuous and effective in the background. Here, too, is the paradise of the 
alligator, which from the wayside winks his piggish eyes as the rifle-ball rattles along 
his^mailed side, or bids farewell to the cypress trees as some experienced sportsman 
sends a leaden messenger into the vulnerable point in the armor. Sometimes, as the 
weird, little craft bumps along around the "cypress knees," the tangled moss above 
opens, and from the blue sky without light pours in and flecks the boat in a thousand 
sunbeams, while the cranes rise up and trail away with flapping wings, the snakes and 
turtles whisk down to homes beneath the surface, and the brilliant-plumaged paro- 
quets scream as they dart off into the depths. When night comes on, blazing pine- 
knots in the swinging cranes on each side of the boat light up the dark channel, and 
as the rays partially illuminate the tall, moss-decked trees around and beyond, strange 
spectres and grotesque ghosts arise, and with supernatural air wave their gaunt arms 
in beckoning or in despair. One hundred and forty miles from the mouth of the 
Ocklawaha is the marvelous Silver Spring. Its bosom is a splendid polished mirror, 
a quarter of a mile wide, its depths as clear as finest crystal for sixty feet down. 
The steamboat on the surface rests on an inverted fac siffiile, and every tree, twig, 




MOUTH OF THE OCKLAWAHA. 



HEALTH RESORTS OF THE SOUTH. 



47 



vine and rock is reproduced in the beautiful pool. The floor of this basin is silver 
sand, studded with curious figures in pale, green-tinted lime crystals. A row across 
the pool is ever to be remembered. Every object that has been dropped into the 
water by preceding visitors lies in the silver setting, a rich emerald gem. At one place 
a barely discernible bubbling points out the spot from which the water gushes out, thou- 
sands of gallons, every moment. A stone dropped toward the slight ledge of limestone 
rock twenty-five feet below, is suddenly thrown in a curved line nearly to the surface 
by the rush of the spring from under the rock. A turn of the boat around the corner 
into the sunlight, and one can scarcely believe that there is anything between his 
craft and the sharp silhouette on the sands below. The river may be followed for 
some ninety miles farther, past some picturesque and lovely lakes, into the remote 
wilderness, where frost rarely penetrates, and sugar-cane tassels. 

One of the most developed parts of the State is " Middle Florida," the section 
surrounding the capital, Tallahassee, one of the most pleasant cities of the South, 
resting on an elevation and fanned by the breezes from the Gulf. About fifteen 
miles from the city is one of the chief wonders of the State, Wakulla Spring, 
which sends off a river from its single outburst. The experience of Silver Spring 
may be here renewed, — the same lime-impregnated, thrillingly transparent water, 
and the same mosaics of 
graduated green hues. 
The basin is narrower 
than that of Silver 
Spring, but in one par- 
ticular more impressive, 
being one hundred and 
six feet deep. Fifty feet 
below the surface one 
may see a great ledge 
of white rock, from be- 
neath which the fish swim 
out. You look down 
past the upper part of 
this ledge down, down 
through the miraculous 
lymph, which impresses 
you at once as an ab- 
straction and as a con- 
crete substance, to the 
white concave bottom, 
where you can plainly 
see a sort of trouble in 
the ground. As the wa- 
ter bursts from its mys- 
terious channel one feels 
more than ever that sensation of depth itself wrought into a substantial embodiment. 

Foremost amongst the cities which have a national reputation as winter 
health resorts, is St. Augustine, the oldest European settlement in the United 




WAKULLA SPRING. 



43 OUR A M ERICA N RESOR TS. 

States. Its history is interesting and romantic, carrying one back to the Middle 
Ages and the times when Spanish cavaliers ventured across the great deep in 
search for Eldorado and the fountain of eternal youth. " The aspect of St. Augus- 
tine," says Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, " is quaint and strange, in harmony with its 
romantic history. It has no pretensions to architectural beauty, and yet it is impres- 
sive from its unlikeness to anything else in America. It is as if some little, old, dead- 
alive Spanish town, with its fort and gateway and Moorish bell-towers had broken 
loose, floated over here and got stranded on a sand-bank. Here you see the shovel- 
hats and black gowns of priests; the convent with gliding' figures of nuns; and in the 
narrow, crooked streets meet dark-browed people, with great Spanish eyes and coal- 
black' hair. The current of life here has the indolent, dreamy stillness that charac- 
terizes life in old Spain. In Spain, when you ask a man to do anything, instead of 
answering as we do, 'In a minute,' the invariable reply is, 'In an hour;' and the 
growth and progress of St. Augustine have been according. There it stands alone, 
isolated, connected by no good roads or navigation with the busy, living world." 
The streets are narrow, and consequently inthatwarm climate shaded and draughty. 
A vehicle is rarely seen on the streets, and the shifting sand lies over broken the 
shell-concrete that formerly paved the way. On each side are old Spanish houses, 
built of coquina stone, a peculiar conglomeration of fine shells and sand, which are 
first stuccoed and then whitewashed, while the quaint, hanging balconies of the 
second stories almost touch from side to side. In the newer parts of the city are 
modern dwellings and hotels, and many elegant winter villas. The climate is that 
which prevails throughout the favored State, which, though ten degrees lower than 
Southern Italy, is so influenced by the counter-currents in the ocean as to maintain 
an equable temperature no higher than that of the country across the sea. 

A city with a history is Charleston, South Carolina. Its name has figured in 
the annals of every war, from the proud day that saw the British balls sink in the 
palmetto logs of Fort Moultrie and the hostile ships sail away defeated, to the sad 
hour when Fort Sumter was fired upon. The bright sunny winters, and a yearly 
mean temperature of sixty-six degrees draw many visitors, — the sick, who find here 
a delightful climate and the needed comforts of a city, and the gay, who make the 
year round a perpetual spring. There are many interesting drives along the Ashley 
and the Cooper rivers, and around Sullivan's Island. In the suburbs of the city are 
a number of old planters' houses, Drayton Hall, Middleton Place, and The Oaks 
being especially notable, with their elegant lawns and the evidences of former splen- 
dor, on which War laid a rude and unsparing hand. Magnolia Cemetery is lovely 
in shrubbery and flowers, and holds the remains of several distinguished men. The 
town itself has imposing public buildings, and some old and attractive churches, 
amongst others the venerable St. Michael's, built in 1752, with tall belfry, holding 
sweet chimes; and St. Philip's, by whose walls John C. Calhoun is buried. Interesting 
trips may be made to the rich "Phosphate Mines," along the Ashley and Bull rivers, 
and to the forts and islands in the harbor. 

The climate and conditions of Savannah and Augusta are very similar to those 
of Charleston, and the three cities are much resorted to by consumptives and other 
invalids who desire to remain within the region of postal delivery. Savannah occu- 
pies a bluff on the river some forty feet high, running back to and including a portion 
of a plateau in the rear of the city. There are twenty-four parks within the limits. 



HEALTH RESORTS OF THE SOUTH. 



49 



and the whole city abounds in trees, shrubbery, and flower gardens, that bloom 
throughout the year. In the southern section is Forsyth Park, having an area of 
about forty acres. A notable object is the Pulaski Monument. There are lovely 
drives leading to White Bluff, Montgomery, Beaulieu, Isle of Hope, and Thunder- 
bolt out on " The Salts." The finest drive, and one of the most picturesque in the 
country, is that to Bonaventure Cemetery, on Warsaw River, and about four miles 
from the city. It was once the residence of the Tatnalls, an old English family. The 
beautiful city of Augusta, the third in population in Georgia, lies at the head of navi- 
gation on the Savannah River, on a broad and picturesque sweep. The city is hand- 
somely laid out, and is famous for its fine avenues, the principal one, Green Street, 
being one hundred and sixty-eight feet wide, having a grass space in the centre lined 
on each side by a row of shade trees. On the high hills some three miles from 
Augusta is Summerville, a handsome suburb, where many Northerners own villas. 
Horse-cars connect with the city, and many find this quiet and attractive little place 
preferable to the more populous points. There is a town of the same name some twenty- 
two miles from Charleston, 
on the South Carolina Rail- 
road. On the line of the same 
road, sixteen miles from Au- 
gusta, and one hundred and 
twenty from Charleston, on 
a sandy plateau six or seven 
hundred feet above the sea, 
lies Aiken, the most frequent- 
ed winter resort in the United 
States. There is scarcely any 
soil, and everywhere in the 
town is clean white sand. 
The air of Aiken is drier than 
that of any other prominent 
Southern resort, and in the 
matter of equability of tem- 
perature is surpassed only 
by San Diego. The mean 
temperature is as follows 
Spring, 63.4'^; summer, 79.1° 
autumn, 63.70°, winter, 46.4'' 
for the year, 63.1^°. The 
average rainfall, as follows: 
Spring, 11.97 inches; sum- 
mer, 13.89; autumn, 7.34; 
winter, 7.16; for the year, 
40.36 inches. These data are 
from the record of 1870. The 
surroundings of Aiken are as 
tranquil as the temperature 
is equable. Straight vistas 




CANON OF THE CATALOECHE. 



5° 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



run out over the sands through the sombre pine woods that encircle the town. There 
are no hills to climb, no falls to visit," no commanding views in the neighborhood one 
must see. The houses are the wide-porticoed, typical Southern houses, with a chimney 

sustaining each side, a sunny, 
open yard, flowering vines, piles 
of roses, and the general hospit- 
able, welcoming air. The little 
negroes drive a thriving trade in 
the sale of the fifty varieties of 
the sand that are found here, 
ranging in color from green to 
brownish red, with now and then 
traces of blue. There is no busi- 
ness but that of entertaining the guests, and 
no noise of traffic. Everything is peaceful 
and quiet, and the chief charm of life comes 
frcm the beauty of the clear winter days. 

The patient having in his sojourn in 
sunny climes become convalescent, will en- 
joy the exercise and tonic of a ramble in a 
mountainous country, and nowhere in the 
Appalachian system could he find a better 
field than in the northern districts of South 
Carolina, North Georgia, and Western 
North Carolina. One of the remarkable 
wonders of South Carolina is Table Moun- 
tain (4,300 feet high), with a barricade of perpendicu- 
lar cliffs, one thousand feet high on one side, which 
present a grand appearance from the wooded glen 
below. From the summit of the mountain may be 
had a fine view of the conspicuous Caesar's Head. The 
Falls of Slicking, a marvelous series of cascades and rapids, lie at 
the base of Table Mountain. Down the declivity two streams 
rush, joining at a point called the "Trunk," from which a most 
charming view of Caesar's Head, Bald Mountain, Pinnacle Rock, 
and adjacent peaks may be obtained. The two streams fall over seventy feet at this 
point into a glen, wild and picturesque as any on the continent. The pretty mountain 
stream, the Keowee, runs through the rare little Jocasse Valley, and varies its course 
in a leap at the White Water Cataracts. From Clarksville, Habersham County, Georgia, 
there are several roads to the mountain country. A few miles from this town are the 
celebrated Toccoa Falls, where a stream comes through a chasm in the hills to tumble 
perpendicularly over a great rock from a height of one hundred and eighty-five feet, 
and upon reaching the bottom is dispersed in mist, which, visible to the eye against 
the dark background, waves to and fro in awierd manner. Tallulah Falls are distant 
twelve miles from Clarksville. Tallulah " the Terrible," a large stream, here breaks 
through the last obstacle in its eastward course, and for two miles, through a gorge of 
twelve hundred feet in depth and of unsurpassed grandeur, is dashed over deep falls. 




HE A LTH KE SOR TS OF THE SOUTH. 5 ^ 

over great rocks, and broken into cascades in the wildest manner. The mountain 
country just gone over, however, pales before the grand and impressive region known 
as the " Land of the Sky," in Western North Carolina. The Blue Ridge and the 
Great Smoky, two great mountain chains, encircle a plateau two hundred and fifty 
miles long and fifty broad, which is crossed by four transverse ranges, the Black, the 
Balsam, the Cullowhee, and the Nantsahala. The Black Mountains are the most 
famous, and include Mount Mitchell, the loftiest summit east of the Mississippi. 
The centre from which the route into the mountains diverge is Asheville, 2,250 feet 
above the sea, and from this pretty town, with a charming climate, one may visit the 
Linville Gorge, with masses of broken, tumbled granite rocks and beetling cliffs, 2,000 
feet high, with a river churning and dashing the ragged way, and traverse the pictur- 
esque Swannanoa Gap, around Cassair's Head into Cashier Valley, to climb the noble 
Whiteside Mountain, probably the most striking peak in the State. Five thousand 
feet high, its face is a tremendous curve of white rock, eighteen hundred feet high 
and two miles long. The face, at a distance apparently smooth, is in reality worn 
and eroded, having many peculiar recesses, amongst others the Devil's Supreme 
Court-house. One of the loveliest glens is the famous Hickory-nut Gap, through 
which the French Broad River runs past many a curiously-carved pillar. The climb- 
ing of mounts Pisgah and Mitchell is a matter of course, and the scenes from the 
summit repay the toil of the ascent. At the top of the latter lies buried in his monu- 
ment Professor Mitchell, in honor of whom the mountain is named. A cairn of 
stones, to which each visitor adds his mite, is slowly building over the last resting- 
place of him who, while exploring the great mountain, was dashed to death in one of 
its many chasms. 

No one intending to travel South should expect to find a paradise, and be en- 
raptured everywhere. There are times and conditions that make many a trip sadly 
disappointing ; but " to him who in the love nature " goes abroad, this section of our 
great land will afford the widest opportunities to view her in some of her sweetest 
and most charming moods. The greatest mistake may be made by invalids who seek 
resorts indiscriminately, without regard to constitution or circumstances ; and many 
poor creatures in the last stages of fatal disease are torn from the comforts of a home 
to die amidst strangers. In all cases a competent physician should be consulted. 
The cities and resorts enumerated in the body of this article are, however, helpful in 
almost all cases requiring pure air, a steady temperature, and peaceful, quieting 
influences. 

HOT AND WARM SPRINGS, N. C. 

These famous springs are located in Madison County, ia the midst of that region 
known as the " Land of the Sky," situated high up among the mountain peaks, yet 
in a valley through which runs the lovely French Broad River. They are on the 
line of the Western North Carolina Railroad, about midway between Morristown, 
Tenn., and Salisbury, N. C, and are reached from New York and Philadelphia via 
Washington and Lynchburg to either of these places. From the west or south- 
west the route is to Cincinnati or Louisville and thence to Knoxville and Morristown. 
The waters of these springs are unsurpassed in virtue and by many are said to be 
superior to any other hot or warm springs in the country. The advantages claimed 
over Hot Springs, Arkansas, are easier accessibility, freedom from malaria and fogs, 
and purity of atmosphere, while the natural waters come out of the ground in dif- 



HEALTH RESORTS OF THE SOUTH, 



53 



ferent pools and springs of the exact degree of temperature physicians of other 
springs recommend their waters to be cooled to. The hotel accommodations are 
first-class. The house has recently been enlarged by the addition of one hundred rooms 
and accommodates one thousand guests. Not infrequently during the season it is filled 
to overflowing. New furniture has recently been purchased and many conveniences 
and attractions added. Music and dancing, brass and string bands, boating, fishing 
and hunting, riding and driving, bowling-alleys and billiard-tables, bathing and moun- 
tain rambling, with all the pleasures and diversions peculiar to watering-places, are 
at the constant command of guests. 

The climate of the Warm Springs Valley is mild and most desirable. Sheltered 
from the bleak winds by surrounding mountains during the winter, and at the same 
time having great elevation and delightful river breezes in the summer, the average 
temperature is unexcelled. It is the happy medium between the extreme cold of the 
North and the burning heat of the South. The amosphere is dry and invigorating, 
the neighboring mountains serving to intercept and collect much of the moisture, 
and to cause its deposition upon the summits and outer slopes. In addition to the 
equable climate and the dry soil, the hot and warm medicated and electric waters 
for bathing, are always at hand. 

Natural hot and warm water is found rising up out of the bowels of the earth 
in only two counties east of the Mississippi, from Canada to the Gulf. Wherever 
found on the face of the globe, their history has ever been wonderful for their cures. 
Many theories exist regarding the cause of heat of such springs. It is claimed by 
Humboldt that it is imparted by the inherent heat of the earth. It is also asserted 
by many scientific persons that it is due to the action of water in union with 
great beds of mineral and chemical matter in the earth that cannot be imitated by 
art. It is the wildest fallacy to suppose that artificially-heated waters can ever pos- 
sess any of the virtues of the waters of these springs. The efficacy of this wonderful 
fluid, medicated mysteriously in subterranean recesses, in effecting cures of the most 
inveterate diseases, is simply miraculous. Science cannot explain it ; art cannot imi^ 
tate it. It is nature's own work and her secret. 




54 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 




ountain \esorts. 




" Here mountain on mountain exultingly throws, 

Through storm, mist, and snow, its bleak crags to the sky ; 
In their shadows the sweets of the valley repose, 
While streams, gay with verdure and sunshine, steal by." 

OUNTAINS are symbols of grandeur and sublimity. 
They have been called " God's eternal sentinels," 
because more than all else in nature they bring man 
to a contemplation of his own littleness and the awful 
extent of infinite power. No man can behold the 
aspects of a nobly-uplifted pinnacle or dome without 
realizing that his thought is expanded, unchained 
and newly gifted. From the earliest dates in the 
world's chronology mountains have commanded the 
"c;^ supremest worship and admiration, and profoundly 
symbolized noted epochs in the panorama of history 
and events. To use the words of Professor Winchell: 
"There is more in mountains than the novelty of the 
outlook from their summits. They stir the higher 
susceptibilities of the intellect by their magnitude, 
their loftiness, their grandeur, and the rugged unap- 
proachableness of their peaks." They fire the soul with a spirit of veneration — they 
are the symbols of eternity and boundless power. They are the homes of frost, and 
silence, and mystery — the brows which bear the wreath of the clouds — the eyries of 
the lightning and the thunder — the palaces of infinite greatness and majesty. Every 
lover of nature is a lover of the mountains, and every student of science and natural 
wonders finds a workshop and a study amid their rocks and crevices. The botanist 
finds there his rarest flowers and plants, and the geologist his most valuable speci- 
mens. The pleasure traveler and health-seeker find in the mountains the rarest air, 
the sublimest scenery, the most enjoyable exercise, and in many cases the greatest 
benefits. Those who have lived among mountains are seldom contented elsewhere^ 
and those who once spend a vacation in them look eagerly forward to another. 

He who first met the highlands swelling blue. 
Will love each peak that shows a kindred hue ; 
Hail in each crag a friend's familiar face. 
And clasp the mountain in his mind's embrace. 

The mountains of our own land embrace every degree, from the "green hills" of 
Vermont to the picturesque Catskills, the wild Adirondacks and Alleghanies, the beau- 
tiful Blue Ridge and the lofty, snow-capped Rockies and Sierras. While no writer 
can ever hope to poetically create another Ararat, Sinai, Calvary, Pindus, Olympus 
or Parnassus, tlae time will certainly come when the fame and influence of our noted 
earth-giants, with their incomparable forests, and waterfalls, and domes, and lakes, 
will outrank and eclipse even that of the Alps, the Apennines, the Cevennes, the 
Vosges, and the Cote d'Or. 



=^6 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



THE ALLEGHANIES. 

The old Alleghanies are the very personification of artistic imagination — of all 
that is grand, wild, and at the same time charming in mountain scenery. Three 
trunk lines of railway cross these mountains at different points in the range, within 
less than loo miles of each other 
— the Pennsylvania, the Balti- 
more & Ohio, and the Chesa- 
peake & Ohio, upon all of which 
the scenery is of the most inter- 
esting and delightful character. 
But the wildest and most truly 
picturesque route is undoubtedly 
the latter. For miles and miles 
along this line, the eye of the 
traveler is delighted with views 
of deep gorges and overhanging 
cliffs, upon the rugged edges of 
which are to be found, growing 
in scant soil, the spruce and the 
pine, and struggling waters trickling down the crum 
bling sandstone over the verge of despair. Openings 
here, great rents in the rocks there, and century-bat- 
tered peaks everywhere, that reach appealingly to 
the clouds, as if in agony at the ruthlessness of the 
elements which they send down upon them. At 
some points within the confines of mountain solem- 
nity along this route, there is no other evidence of 
human existence than the scarred rocks, the cross-ties, and the steel over which the 
way is made. There are many delightful resorts located in the fastnesses of these 
mountains, some of which are well-known and deservedly popular, because of their 
peculiar advantages, and some of even greater attractiveness with which the seekers 
after pleasant retreats are not so well acquainted. 

DEER PARK AND OAKLAND. 

These twin resorts, situated six miles apart, in the glades of the Alleghanies, 
have been created by the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Company, upon whose line they 
are located and under whose control they are conducted. They are high up in the 
exhilarating atmosphere of an altitude of 3,000 feet above sea level, and possess every 
advantage — those vouchsafed by nature as well as those secured by a liberal expendi- 
ture of capital. Being directly on the line of the railroad, no fatiguing stage journey 
is required to reach them. The locality is in the State of Maryland, eight and nine 
hours' ride from Baltimore and Washington, and but a night's ride from Cincinnati 
in the opposite direction. The hotels at both Deer Park and Oakland are elegantly 
furnished, and all the appointments are the most complete and modern. Each has 
accommodations for from five to six hundred guests, reaching the latter figure when 
crowded. At certain times during the season, many people are turned away for want 
of room to house them. 




CROSSING THE 
ALLEGHANIES. 



MO UN TA IN RESOR TS. 



57 



The attractions at both these places consist in the mountain air and scenery, and 
the elegance of the hotels. Of the climate it may be said that the nights are always 
cool, while in the hottest days of summer, the thermometer rarely reaches beyond the 
eighties. The scenery round about is of the most picturesque character, especially at 
Oakland, where the mammoth hotel rests at the foot of a towering hill, the sides of 
which are banked with foliage, forming a background that completes a rare picture. 
Two different roads connect Deer Park and Oakland, one known as the lake drive 
and the other the mountain drive. Both are charming, whether taken by carriage or 
on horseback. The former route passes Mountain Lake Park, a resort on the order 
of Chautauqua, situated midway between the other two. Aside from the general 
healthfulness of these "mountain top" resorts, the air is especially recommended 
to sufferers from that aristocratic malady "hay fever." It is claimed that those 




DEER PARK HOTEL. 

afflicted with this an- 
nual scourge, find, in 
many cases, entire re- 
lief at Deer Park and Oakland. Of this, each victim's own experience will determine 
the truth. Great stress is laid upon the cuisine at both Deer Park and Oakland, and the 
management advertises with especial emphasis that guests will not be required to 
draw their sustenance from the scenery. They say that the principle, if "man wants but 
little here below," he wants that little long, is interpreted to mean, that he wants that 
which best pleases him three times a day, and wants all of it that his appetite craves. 
A summer resort advertising in this way ougljit to be a comfortable stopping-place in 
a region where mountain air is the appetizing tonic. 

KANE, PA. 

Located in the wildest portion of Pennsylvania, on the highest summit of the 
AUeghanies reached by the Philadelphia cS: Erie Railroad, Kane possesses superior 
attractions for sportsmen and for those who are inclined toward- life in the forest. 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 




MO UiV TA IN RE SOR TS. 5 9 

Its elevation and dense hemlock and pine forest surroundings give it an atmosphere 
of peculiar rarity and liealthfulness, very beneficial in cases of asthma, hay fever, and 
other diseases of the respiratory organs. The country adjacent to this station is 
celebrated for the production of milk, butter and cheese — the manufacture of the latter 
article being an important industry, prosecuted on an extensive scale. The markets 
are abundant — game, mountain trout, and the luscious fruits of the forest being ob- 
tainable in any quantities when in season. Sulphur and iron springs burst forth near 
the hotel, and throughout all the region limpid streams and pools abound, filled with 
the speckled trout so attractive to fishermen, and in some of which the breeding and 
rearing of these beauties is scientifically carried on. The forests, almost interminable 
in extent, are intersected with good dry roads, carpeted by the cast foliage of hem- 
locks and pines, and arched by their perennial verdure, where drives and walks afford 
unalloyed enjoyment. Deer are frequently seen browsing on the herbage or bounding 
through the woods ; rabbits scamper along the roads ; pheasants awaken the echoes 
with their drumming, and silent woodcock whirl away from approaching humanity 
to seek more secluded retreats. Sportsmen can always procure safe, experienced 
guides to pilot them where guns and rods can be brought into active play, and the 
lover of nature can find many places to pause at, and scenes to remember. 

CRESSON, PA. 

This somewhat noted resort, is located almost on the summit of the Alleghanies, 
2,300 feet above the level of the sea, in the midst of delightful scenery, and is easy 
of access from all the great cities, being directly on the main line of the Pennsylvania 
railroad within a few hours' ride. Philadelphia in the East, and Pittsburg or Cincin- 
nati in the West. Two or three mineral springs flowing from the mountain near by 
give rise to a claim for recognition as a " Spring " resort, all the various medicinal 
properties being attributed to the waters. Some are said to have apparent action 
while others are regarded as producing tonic effects. 

The new Mountain House, erected during the fall and winter of 1880-S1, on the 
site of the old hotel, is a very striking structure in the Queen Anne style of archi- 
tecture, into which is blended the Oriental. It is located on the crest of a hill in the 
midst of a delightful grove. The main front is 300 feet long, with an elevation of 
about 100 feet, embracing four stories and basement, with wings extending from 
each end to a depth of 220 feet. The whole building is surrounded by a covered 
piazza 16 feet wide, forming a promenade 1,200 feet in length. The hotel itself will 
accommodate about 900 guests, in addition to which there are 25 cottages in the 
surrounding grove, providing special accommodations for those seeking seclusion 
and the perfect quiet of home, while dwelling near enough to the concert and the 
dance to participate at pleasure. The cottages form a portion of the Mountain 
House property, and are managed by and under the immediate charge of the hotel 
officers and servants, meals being served either in the main dining-room of the hotel 
or at the cottages, as specially arranged. Board walks extend from the main build- 
ing to all the houses, and the ways are brilliantly lighted at night. In contrast with 
the mountain fastnesses all around Cresson, the beautiful and extensive grounds about 
the hotel have a peculiar charm, there being about 400 acres of land in lawns, 
gardens and groves. The surroundings of the hotel are attractive, and pleasant 
drives lead away through the almost unbroken forests. 



Go 



OCR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



ALTOONA, PA. 

From a mere dining station on the Pennsylvania Railroad, Altoona has come to be 
ranked as a summer resort. It is situated at the head of the Logan Valley, in the 
Alleghany Mountains, a few miles east of Cresson. Altoona is the Summiil City of 
Pennsylvania, being 1,200 feet above the level of the sea and in an atmosphere 
of unusual purity, under the influence of which asthmatic sufferers and the victims of 
hay fever are said, in many cases, to find relief. The scenery of the locality is of 
the most varied description, and presents, within a radius of a few miles, a gradual 
transition from the graceful and picturesque to the rugged and sublime. A short dis- 



^ t^^ 







tance west is tlie famous " Horseshoe Curve." The valley here separates into two 
chasms, but by a grand curve, the sides of which are for some distance parallel with 
each other, the road crosses both ravines on a high embankment, cuts away the point 
of the mountain dividing them, and sweeps around and up the stupendous 
western wall. Looking eastward from the curve, the view is peculiarly impressive, 
while at Allegrippus, where the majesty of the mountains seems to culminate, the 



MO I 'vV TA IN RE SOR TS. 6 1 

vast hills in successive ranges roll away in billowy swells to the far horizon, the 
prospect being only bounded by the power of vision. Twice each day during the 
summer open " observation cars " are attached to the day express trains, and make 
the round trip between Cressen and Altoona, enabling passengers to view the scenery 
of the Alleghanies. 

RENOVO, PA. 

Another of the seductive spots in the Alleghany forest, on the line of the Phila- 
delphia & Erie Railroad, is Renovo, which has lately been sought in summer by fami- 
lies from the neighboring towns. It is delightfully situated in a little oval valley, 
formed by a separation of mountain ranges rising around it to a height of more than 
a thousand feet, through which the west branch of the Susquehanna River glides in 
a placid and pellucid current. It is the location of the railroad workshops, and the 
industry centred here by these improvements is the life stimulus of the place, caus- 
ing it to grow, in a period of about ten years, from an isolated farm into a town of 
more than two thousand inhabitants. The scenery in the vicinity is charmingly pic- 
turesque. Renovo may be said to lie almost in the heart of the great pine forests of 
Pennsylvania, and the depth of those mysterious woods, where the sportsman will find 
ample uses both for the gun and the rod, can readily be reached from it. The hotel at 
Renova, erected and owned by the railroad company, is large and comfortable, afford- 
ing accommodations unsurpassed in excellence. Directions for reaching Renovo are 
the same as for Kane. 

MOUNTAIN LAKE, VA. 

This singular and rather attractive place is well known in Virginia as "Salt 
Pond," but outside of the State there is very little acquaintance with it. It is situated 
on the highest Virginia portion of the Alleghany range. The lake, the chief object of 
interest, is a beautiful and picturesquely-situated little body of water, the highest, 
perhaps, in this part of the country, being over 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
It is about half a mile in length by less than a quarter wide, with no visible inlet or 
outlet. Its depth is something remarkable, reaching, in some places, as authorita- 
tively reported, over 200 feet. The origin of this lake is a mystery, though the tradi- 
tions of the locality attribute it to the tramping of herds of deer and buffalo frequent- 
ing a salt-lick on the spot many years ago, thus causing the earth to "hold water." 
This explanation, however, would hardly seem to account for the great depth of the 
lake, which has been steadily increasing. Since 1804 this increase has amounted to 25 
feet. No drouth ever affects it. The most probable theory is that the presence of 
this lake is due to some subterranean stream like Lost River. There is some remark- 
able scenery in the locality, views from the " Crow's Nest " and " Bald Knob," two 
high points near by, equaling any in the whole range of mountains for extent and 
beauty, although the place would be one of unusual attractiveness if put in the 
hands of enterprising owners and provided with improvements and accommodations. 
It is reached by stage or private conveyance from Christiansburg on the Norfolk '& 
Western Railroad, or from Eggleston on the New River branch, now open, and twelve 
miles nearer. 

COLORADO. 

Owing to the extent and grandeur of its mountain scenery, Colorado ranks first 
among the mountain regions of our country. By the concurrent testimony of trav- 
elers, the scenery of the Rocky Mountains is not inferior to that of the world-famed 



OUR A M ERICA N RE SOR TS. 




WINN 

miles, 



>TTO — WALLS 2000 FEET HIGH. 



Alpine region in Europe. Yet there are 
points of difference, chiefly in the surpass- 
ing magnitude and grandeur of these im- 
mense Rockies and the wonderful canons 
among them, whose unique and even fan- 
tastic formations are unequaled anywhere 
in the universe. These river canons of 
deeply-cut ravines, that are found in all 
the more elevated portions of Colorado, 
constitute a peculiar and striking feature 
of the great Rocky Mountain system. In 
the countless ages of the past, the waters 
of the streams have worn channels deep 
down into the hearts of the mountains, 
leaving the perpendicular granite of sand- 
stone standing on either side for hundreds, 
and in some localities thousands, of feet. 
Nowhere are the grand and wonderful in 
nature more effectually illustrated than in 
these mountains and canons. There are 
no less than fifteen peaks in the State, each 
with an altitude but little below that of 
Mt. Blanc; and, in extent of surface, one of 
these great peaks exceeds the entire area 
of Switzerland. To gain some idea of the 
extent of Colorado scenery, let it be remem- 
bered that the State is larger than Great 
Britain, comprising an area of 67,420,000 
acres, of which one-third only is grazing or ., 
agricultural territory, while the remainder 1 
is the vast upheaval known as the Rocky 
Mountains, the " back-bone of the conti- 
nent," describing a tortuous course north 
and south through the State. Its average 
extent, north and south, is 275 miles, and 
east and west 380 miles, the total area 
being 104,500 miles. 

Approaching Colorado from the east, 
the traveler makes a gradual ascent after | 
leaving the Missouri River, and the eastern J 
border of the State is crossed at an eleva- \ 
tion of 4,000 feet. In the central part of 
Colorado the mountains form four vast 
basins, called parks, — North Park, South 
Park, Middle Park, and San Luis Park. 
North Park, with its area of 2,500 square 



IE S ORG 

at an elevation of about 9,000 feet, has a north-central location. Just south of 



MO UN T A IX RESOR TS. 63 

North Park is Middle Park, with its area of 3,000 square miles, at an elevation of 8,500 
feet. Still south of Middle Park is South Park, with its area of 2,200 square miles, at 
an elevation of 9,500 feet. The fourth Park, San Luis, is near the south line of the 
State, has an area of 8,000 square miles and an elevation of 7,000 feet. In these parks 
are numerous small lakes, besides many beautiful streams and mineral springs, which 
are becoming popular resorts. The now famous Twin Lakes in Middle Park are, with_ 
a single exception, the highest bodies of water in North America. Some of the 
numerous summer residents of the locality have provided themselves with sail boats, 
and enjoy the novelty of yachting at an elevation of 11,000 feet. Hunting and fishing 
have also been bountifully indulged in by tourists fond of these sports. Game was, a 
few years ago, very plentiful, especially in North Park, which was the natural herd- 
ing-ground of thousands of elk, antelope, deer, and mountain-sheep ; but their 
numbers are becoming considerably diminished, though the pursuit is still sufficiently 
rewarded to give zest to the sport. 

Outside of Denver, usually the first place visited by all tourists, the chief places 
of interest, and the ones most convenient and accessible, are: Colorado Springs, Man- 
itou and surroundings, Boulder Canon, Greeley, Idaho Springs, Georgetown and 
vicinity, Central City, Pagosa Springs and the Parks. Of course the mountain 
scenery is everywhere, and mining operations, of interest to many, are to be seen in 
every part of the State. The beautiful city of Denver, with its progressive spirit and 
metropolitan appearance, is doubly attractive after the long journey across the plains, 
and the fascination of first sight is increased on closer acquaintance. There is a dash 
and animation about the place, with a finish and elegance that suggests prosperity, 
wealth and stability quite as much as the aggressive frontier. Denver is the best 
built city between St. Louis and San Francisco, and its growth at the present time 
is more rapid and its prospects more brilliant, than any other city in the whole coun- 
try. The city is built mainly on ground sloping slightly towards the mountains, 
which rise so grandly along the entire western horizon, the line of vision taking in 
the "snowy range" and its outlying foot-hills for a distance of one hundred and fifty 
miles. The streets are broad, solid and cleanl)^, and are lined in all directions by 
massive blocks, elegant residences, green lawns and handsome shade trees. The city 
is well provided with hotels, most of them first-class. Nearly all tourists make Denver 
headquarters and plan their trips in different directions from that point. The next 
place in importance, especially from the tourist's standpoint, is Colorado Springs, the 
most beautifully-located, cleanest and coziest-appearing place in the State. Near here 
is Manitou, known as the " Saratoga of the West," and within a radius of five or six 
miles are some of the most interesting features of Colorado scenery. At Manitou, 
which is situated just at the opening of the Pike's Peak trail, are located the most 
famous mineral springs in this region. The waters are strongly charged with car- 
bonic acid and contain carbonates of soda, lime and magnesia in various proportions. 
The elevation of this locality is higher than that of Denver, or a little over 6,700 feet. 
There are splendid drives in all directions, and within a radius of seven or eight miles 
are numerous attractions and points of special interest, including the Garden of the 
Gods, Glen Eyrie, Ute Pass and Monument Park. The eroded sandstone formations 
from which the latter takes its name are among the greatest curiosities to be seen in 
Colorado. No accurate estimate can be made of the hundreds of years this work of 
nature has been in progress. There are perhaps two hundred of the peculiar forma- 



64 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



tions of different sizes and shiapes, some of which are really fantastic, the whole 
covering an area of five hundred acres, in the midst of a perfect, natural park. The 
Garden of the Gods is also a remarkable freak of nature, partaking somewhat more 

of the grand and impos- 
ing. It is a secluded spot, 
hemmed in by great rocks 
stood up on edge and on 
end. They are some of the 
more marked of the nume- 
rous evidences on every 
hand here of a grand up- 
heaval some time in the 
past. These tremendous 
copper-colored slabs loom- 
ing up, some of them 350 
feet high, are an imposing 
sight. Some look like enor- 
mous pillars ; others are 
cathedral - shaped towers, 
the whole forming a scene 
at once weird and enchant- 
ing. Colorado Springs and 
Manitou are onl3'five miles 
apart and connected by a 
narrow-gauge railroad, by 
which the fare is twenty- 
five cents for a round trip. 
The air here is bracing, and 
SAM..TU.NE 1.UKMATIO.NS, Mor^uMENf TARK. thej-^ js ^mple amusemeut 

for the lovers of nature in the canons, grottoes, mountains and passes. First of all, 
there is that giant sentinel, Pike's Peak, towering over plain and foot-hill, the view 
from whose summit is indescribably grand. Although this attains the enormous 
altitude of 14,147 feet, by following the trail it can be ascended on horseback. On 
the barren, rocky mountain-top is a Government signal-service station. To witness 
sunrise from this elevated position is an experience long to be remembered, as is the 
whole day's trip, for it is a laborious and tiresome journey. The spectacle of a snow- 
squall on this Peak in midsummer is a treat, and may be often witnessed from the 
Garden of the Gods and other points in the range of vision. Though the most 
famous Peak in Colorado, and seen at the greatest distance in all directions. Pike's is 
not the highest, Gray's Peak, twelve miles above Georgetown, being 200 feet higher. 
The most entertaining tour to be made in Colorado, and the one embracing the 
greatest amount and variety of scenery for the time and expenditure required, is from 
Denver by the Colorado Central Railway, now a part of the Union Pacific system, 
through Clear Creek Caiion to Georgetown, Idaho Springs and Central City. These 
points with their surroundings furnish material for weeks of pleasant exploration, or 
they may be hastily seen in two days. Picturesque Clear Creek Canon has been often 
portrayed, but it must be seen to be api:)reciated. Passing through it is almost like 




MOUNTAIN RESORTS. 



65 



going into an immense cave. Its towering peaks and overhanging rocks are high 
above on either side, sometimes shooting straight up, with walls as perpendicular as 
those of a cavern, and almost shutting out the light of day. Idaho Springs are reached 
soon after emerging from the canon. Though not as noted in the world of fashion 
as Manitou, these springs are probably the best in Colorado, and the air of the 
locality is a perfect tonic, unequaled anywhere. 

Sixteen miles beyond Idaho Springs, situated almost in the heart of the moun- 
tains, fifty- two 
miles from Denver, 
is Georgetown. It 
is not only pictur- 
esque in appear- 
ance, but unique, 
and will strike the 
new-comer from 
the East as wholly 
unlike anything he 
has ever seen be- 
fore. All around 
are curiosities and 
places of interest. 
Gray's Peak, one of 
the four highest in 
the whole range, is 
only twelve miles 
distant. Tourists 
usually make the 
trip to it on horse- 
back, and those who 
wish to enjoy it to 
the best advantage, 
and to save them- 
selves unnecessary 
fatigue, take a part 
of two days for it, 
spending the night 
at a cottage at the 
foot of the moun- 
tain. By this means 
the ascent can be 
made in early 
morning, always 
the best time. It 
is a hard climb up 
the narrow, wind- 
ing trail, but the 
magnificence of the ~ "^on^^r ^j^.w- 

devil's gate, near GEORGETOWN. 




65 Oi'R AMERICAN RESORTS. 

scene repays many times over the labor of reaching it. This cold, stony summit points 
up through the clouds 14,35 ^ ^^^t above the sea level, and in the hottest days of August 
one requires extra wraps while standing upon it. Looking down hundreds of feet below 
may be seen immense snow-banks which the summer's sun has failed to dissolve. Rest- 
ing over the tops of lower mountains are seen great white clouds, which from above, 
with the sunlight shining on them, also look like sheets of snow. For hundreds of 
miles in every direction mountain peak after mountain peak meets the view, snow- 
capped and rock-bound, "grand, gloomy and peculiar." In the clear, rarified atmos- 
phere there is almost no limit to one's vision with a good fi6ld-glass. Denver lies 60 
miles to the south. Pike's Peak, 150 miles distant, appears to be scarcely a gunshot 
away. South Park seems to be almost at your feet, while ranges of mountains in 
Wyoming and New Mexico are plainly visible. One of the most noted mountains of 
Colorado — the Mount of the Holy Cross, so called because of the cross-shaped snow- 
lines always visible near its summit — is also readily seen. Victor Hugo tells us that 
" every condition has its instinct," and he who finds himself for the first time face to 
face with the Rocky Mountains has an appalling sense that he has not only over- 
rated his individual importance in nature's economy, but has likewise undervalued 
the influence of inarticulate nature upon himself. Nothing can transcend the majesty 
of these snow-capped mountains! You gaze upon them in mute wonder until you 
grow abstracted and out of self into the idea of perpetual greatness. You do not 
think — only feel — and somehow the Eastern world that you have left behind, with its 
glitter and gloom, its envious struggles and manifold defects, fades into insignificance 
in view of this endless range of divine architecture, and you are for once an humble 
worshipper at the pure shrine of sublimity. 

Three miles up a mountain gulch above Georgetown is what is known as Green 
Lake. It is a large basin, at an elevation of 11,000 feet, filled with water 75 feet deep, 
almost as cold as ice, and of a greenish hue. The lake is half a mile long by a quar- 
ter of a mile in width, and overlooked on all sides by an impregnable mountain wall. 
Over the mountain, about twenty miles from this locality, wedged in two ravines, the 
tourist will find the towns of Central City and Nevadaville. It is worth the trouble 
of getting there just to see them. The first sight of these cities of the hills is one 
not soon to be forgotten. There is a novelty in the scene which attracts in spite of 
the general barrenness of the landscape, the forest having long since been consumed 
in furnaces and mines. Thus the numberless prospect holes, dump piles, shaft cuts, 
and tunnels, that scar the earth's surface are all the more plainly visible. Streets 
and houses stand almost in tiers one above the other in narrow ravines and gulches. 
The towns centre where two streams and gulches unite, and the main thoroughfare, 
over three miles in length, winds through and around granite hills. Far up the giddy 
slopes, on either side, hang cottages and mine buildings, seemingly ready to topple 
one on another. 

Among the places not heretofore mentioned are the Pagosa Springs, which lie 
four miles south of the San Juan range, on the river of the same name. The chief 
attraction is a cluster of hot springs, the largest of which is forty feet in diameter, the 
water being exceedingly hot and charged with saline material. The Poncho Springs 
are located a short distance from South Arkansas, and are fifty in number. The 
locality offers numerous attractions as a pleasure resort; the scenery is grand and in- 
spiring, views being had of mounts Ouray, Shawano, Antero, Harvard and Princeton. 



MO I 'N TA IN RE SOR TS. 



67 



Tourists may expect to encounter many interesting and almost irreconcilable 
freaks of nature during extended rambles in the Rocky Mountains. A writer of some 
note thus speaks of personal observations: " While crossing the 'range' which girdles 
North Park, one July day several summers ago, we were among snow-banks much of 
the time, and at night our camp was made by a great bank of glittering and ' beauti- 
ful,' on account of the abundance of water, fuel^and horse-feed in that vicinity. The 
bank was higher than our heads, and slowly melting under the influence of the July 
sun. At the very edge of the snowy mound we found strawberries in full bloom, and 
within ten feet could be counted half-a-dozen varieties of flowers. Water froze hard 
in camp utensils during the night, and the customary white frost was everywhere 
visible in the morning. Morning after morning, in our wanderings at these high 
altitudes, have we shaken the 
crisp scales of white frost 
from our blankets and looked 
around upon a scene of ap- 
parent desolation. Brilliant 
flowers of the evening before 
wilted into ruins, and the 
splendid tall blue grass that 
looked a delicious morsel for 
stock at sunset, was bent, and 
sometimes broken, as with the 
weight of a night's winter. 
But an hour of sunshine al- 
ways changed the scene to 
one of springtime freshness, 
and often the flora, apparently 
most delicate, rallied first un- 
der the magic influence." An 
experience to be remembered 
by every tourist who meets 
with it, is getting caught in a 
storm up in the mountains. 
The rain-clouds do not over- 
spread the whole heavens as 
in the Atlantic States, but pass over in areas of narrow width, following up the 
mountain spurs and chains, and often, when the rainfall on a mountain-top or moun- 
tain-side is sufficient to transform the tiny rivulet or brooklet into a raging torrent 
of water, there will be in the valley below, only a mile or two distant, continued 
sunshine and a balmy and fragrant atmosphere. It is a grand and glorious sight 
to witness a thunder-storm in these mountains, if you only happen to be at a safe 
distance. Then to listen to the rolling, almost deafening reverberations as the 
thunder-cloud passes over some lofty peak or range, and to witness the vivid play of 
the forked lightning as it flashes from cloud to cloud, or darts meteor-like from crag 
to crag, while you are basking in the beautiful sunshine, is glorious in the extre me 
But to happen to be in the path of this rapidly-moving storm is to get such a drench- 
ing as one may never forget. During the month of August these storms occur in the 




UREEN LAKE. 



6S 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



mountains almost every afternoon, between one and four o'clock. They come without 
more than a moment's warning, and there is no time for getting away from them. 




MOUNT OF Tilli HOLY CROSS. 



MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. b 9 

Concerning the climate of Colorado various impressions prevail and much mis- 
understanding exists as to the effect of it upon different organizations. It is undoubt- 
edly variable in some respects, but two things can always be depended upon in the 
summer season — pure air and plenty of sunshine. As a health resort the locality 
cannot be recommended indiscriminately for all sorts of people, with all sorts of 
diseases, as was done by interested parties a few years ago. To those in the enjoy- 
ment of ordinary health the sensations experienced in crossing the ascending elevati'ons 
of the great plains, and in the higher altitudes at the base of and within the moun- 
tains, are in a notable degree pleasant. The dryness and rarity of the atmosphere, 
together with its remarkable electrical effects, combined with other peculiarities of 
the climate, excite the nervous system to a high degree of tension. Among the dis- 
eases which a visit to the Rocky Mountains will generally relieve, and often cure, are: 
Asthma, the earlier indications of pulmonary consumption, chronic bronchitis, certain 
forms of dyspepsia and malarial poison. But it has been demonstrated that persons 
in the latter stages of consumption go to Colorado only, in many cases, to die. Of 
the hundreds of patients of this class who have sought these high altitudes in the past 
some have found health, while many have sooner or later retraced their route in rapid 
decline. Any such, hoping for a cure, must not postpone too long the day of starting. 
And all persons in ill health are warned against making the transition from the lower 
to the high altitudes too suddenly. It is always best to make one or two stops be- 
tween Kansas City and the mountains. 

The drawbacks to a Colorado tour are the same as are encountered in all these 
long journeys to the great West, though they do not exist in the same degree here as 
in the trip to Yellowstone Park. There is no staging to get to Colorado, and there 
is, as a rule, no lack of accommodations after arrival, especially in the centres. There 
are now four routes across the plains to Colorado from Chicago. The best are: first, the 
Rock Island or Northwestern to Omaha, and thence by the Union Pacific via Cheyenne; 
second, the Rock Island or Chicago & Alton to Kansas City, and thence over the 
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe via Pueblo; or the same to Kansas City and thence 
to Denver direct over the Kansas branch of the Union Pacific. 

The hotel accommodations throughout Colorado may be termed "fair to mid- 
dling." In Denver, hotels are plentiful and generally good, rates from $2.50 to $4 
per day. At Colorado Springs, Georgetown, Idaho Springs and Central City the aver- 
age rate is $3 per day. The rates of the Manitou hotels are $4 and ^5 per day. For 
all tourists to the mountains, camping out, with a "burro" pony to ride from point to 
point, is the least expensive and most satisfactory arrangement. These ponies can 
be purchased, with a complete outfit, for ^50, and sold after use at a small sacrifice. 

CALIFORNIA. 

But for its great distance from the populous portions of the East, California would 
probably be more frequented. Though it has been celebrated in books, newspapers 
and magazines for twenty years, it is really but little better known to the great mass 
of tourists than it was to Swift when he wrote his description of the flying island of 
Laputa. " There have been Americans," says Charles Nordhoff in his excellent work 
on California, "who saw Rome before they saw Niagara; and for one who has visited 
the Yosemite a hundred will tell you about the Alps, and a thousand about Paris. But 
I would like to induce Americans, when they contemplate a journey for health, pleas- 



70 . OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

ure or instruction, or all three, to think of their own country, and particularly of 
California. There, and only there, on this planet the traveler and resident may enjoy 
the delights of the tropics without their penalties; a mild climate, not enervating, but 
healthful and health-restoring; a wonderfully and variously-productive soil without 
tropical malaria; the grandest scenery, with perfect security and comfort in traveling 
arrangements; strange customs, but neither lawlessness nor semi-barbarism." This 
is a glowing picture and probably somewhat overdrawn. Yet it is undoubtedly true 
that California has a climate unequaled in any other part of our country, and that 
the scenery of her mountains and the Yosemite Valley ranks among the greatest won- 
ders of the New World. 

To most Eastern people, California is still a land of big beets and pumpkins, o 
rough miners, of pistols, bowie-knives, abundant fruit, queer wines, and high prices — 
full of discomforts, and abounding in dangers to the peaceful traveler. But the 
tourist of to-day finds that the conditions of '49 have passed away — that California 
is thoroughly civilized, abounding in comforts and luxuries. After spending a few 
days in San Francisco, the first place visited is the world-famed Yosemite Valley. Of 
this marvelous Valley, where the most exquisite pencilings of nature have fulfilled 
matchless conceptions, an enthusiastic writer has said: "Yosemite conveys to the 
soul of man, through the eye, what might be the orchestra of Heaven, through the 
ear, were peals of thunder compassed into harmonious notes of music, then suddenly 
silenced, and followed amid instant stillness by nature's most tiny voice." Another, 
who had written extensively of the scenes met within a tour around the world, upon 
taking his first view from "Inspiration Point," said : "Like a spendthrift in words, 
the only terms applicable to this spot I have wasted on minor scenes." All writers 
agree that language fails to adequately express the emotions felt, or convey the 
impressions obtained upon a first visit. After satisfying the senses with one rapid, 
general survey of the Valley, the eye rests involuntary upon "El Capitan," the 
monarch of rocks; then the vision wanders to the opposite side, and takes in the 
beautiful waterfall known as the " Bridal Veil; " then the " Cathedral Rock;" then, 
back again, on the left, to the "Three Brothers," and, in the distance, the "Dome," 
"Half Dome," and many other masses of perpendicular granite walls, majestically 
lifting themselves to the sapphire heavens. The Valley, which is some six miles in 
length by less than a mile in average width, is about 4,000 feet above the level of the 
sea, and is thickly wooded and scattered all over with floral offerings, rich and varied 
and abundant beyond the gardens of wealth and taste. 

The most attractive and beautiful object in the Valley, from March until July, is 
said, by Major Truman, in his recent guide-book, to be the Yosemite Falls. The name 
is Indian, and signifies large grizzly bear. These Falls are divided into three sections 
— first, a perpendicular descent of 1,500 feet, then 600 feet of cataracts down a 
shelving ledge, and then a final leap of 400 feet. Professor Whitney concludes a 
description of them as follows : "As the various portions of the falls are nearly in 
one vertical plane, the effect of the whole is nearly as grand, and perhaps even more 
picturesque, than it would be if the descent were made in one leap from the top of 
the cliff to the level of the Valley. Nor is the grandeur or beauty of the fall 
perceptibly diminished by even a very considerable diminution of the quantity of 
water from its highest stage. One of the most striking features of the Yosemite 
Falls, is the vibration of the upper portion from one side to the other, under the 



MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 



71 



varying pressure of the wind, which acts with immense force on so long a column. 
The descending mass of water is too great to allow of its being entirely broken up 
into spray; but it widens out very much towards the bottom — probably as muQh as 
300 feet, at high water, the space through which it moves being fully three times as 
wide. This vibratory motion of the Yosemite and Bridal Veil falls is something 
peculiar, and not observed in any others, so far as known. The gem of the Valley is 
Mirror Lake, which, in order to see the reflections, must be visited early in the day. 

But the attractions of this Valley are too numerous to be set forth in detail 
here. Perhaps the best known, and ranking with Mirror Lake among the most 
beautiful objects it contains, is the Bridal Veil Fall. To obtain an idea of it, fancy 
a sheet of milk-white foam, seventy feet across, falling with a slight outward curve 
one thousand feet sheer descent, shattered into spray near the foot and on the sides. 




which^is blown about by the wind and thrown back by the rebound till the base of 
the fall is quite hidden — then imagine the sun shining through this boiling mass of 
foam and mist, and watch the rainbows spanning the stream in concentric circles, as 
vivid as strips of brilliant ribbon, rainbows on each side, broken rainbows quivering 
down and others rising to meet them, every neighboring bush crowned with rainbows, 
and even the turf for rods around glowing with the richest colors, and all these shifting, 
changing, blazing, fadingand forming again. Professor Whitney says of it: "The effect 
of the fall, as everywhere seen from the Valley, is as if it were 900 feet in vertical 
height, its base being concealed by the trees which surround it. The quantity of 
water in the Bridal Veil Fall varies greatly with the season. In May and June the 
amount is generally at the maximum, and it gradually decreases as the summer 
advances. The effect, however, is finest when the body of water is not too heavy, 



12 



OUR A ME RICA iV RESORTS. 



since then the swaying from side to side, and the waving under the varying pressure 
of the wind as it strikes the long column of water, is more marked. As seen from a 
distance at such times it seems to flutter like a white veil, producing an indescribably 




LAKE TAHOK. 



beautiful effect. The name ' Bridal Veil ' is poetical, but fairly appropriate. The 
stream which supplies this fall, at the highest stage of water, divides at the base into 
a dozen streamlets, several of which are only just fordable on horseback." Merced 
River is a pretty stream, which takes its source from the snows and lakes of the high 
Sierra, and dashes down into the Valley from innumerable cascades and waterfalls. 
Its banks are adorned by pine, fir, alder, spruce, poplar, and manzansta, and during 
the spring and summer months with myriads of flowering plants and shrubs. 
During the months of May, June and July in particular, the California lilac, mariposa, 
azalea, and an infinite variety of smaller wild flowers are in full bloom and perfection, 
displaying all the rich colors of an Axminster, and which, interwoven with the 
emerald groves which enliven the banks of the Merced, constitute a piece of mosaic 
unrivaled in nature or art. 

The Yosemite Valley is situated about 150 miles in an almost easterly direction 
from San Francisco, and nearly midway of the State from north to south. It was for 
many years the rendezvous or permanent abiding-place of hostile Indians, who had a 
legend for every point of interest, whether water or rock. The place was first seen 
in 1850 by a number of white men who had formed themselves into a military com- 
pany to punish or compel peace with bands of murderous Indians. An expedition 
under Captain Doling invaded the aboriginal stronghold and obtained possession, 
only to be in turn annihilated some time later. After peace had been secured the 
Valley was occasionally visited by plucky tourists who had heard of its wonders 



MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 



73 



from the soldiers. In 1855, J. M. Hutchings, publisher of the California Magazine, 
being engaged in gathering materials for the illustration of California scenery, or- 
ganized an expedition which really made the first party of tourists to visit the Valley, 
and which makes Mr. Hutchings's name inseparably connected with it. During the 
year 1856 a trail was made into the Valley on the Mariposa side, and the first hotel 
was opened in 1857, when regular pleasure travel commenced. Many men eminent 
in the pursuit of science have made careful geological studies and examinations of 
the Valley, and have arrived at different theories regarding its formation. Some 
pretend to trace it to glacial disturbances; others claim that it is the result of erosion; 
while still others adopt the theory that it is the result of a vast rent or fissure. All 
tourists, explorers and geologists agree that the scenery of the Yosemite is of a type 
peculiar and unique. 

The other attractions of California are its geysers, mountains, lakes, and big- 
trees. Perhaps the Geysers, situated in Sonoma County, 100 miles from San Fran 
Cisco, are, partly owing to their accessibility and partly on account of their fame as 
objects of wonder, more gen- 
erally visited than any other 
Pacific coast attractions, the 
Yosemite excepted. From the 
largest to the smallest, from 
the "Steamboat" to the 
" Witches' Caldron," down to 
infinitessimal bubbles to be 
seen in every direction, from 
the mouth of the seething, 
boiling, trembling canon to its 
head, there are at least a hun- 
dred springs, of all shapes, 
colors, conditions and tem- 
peratures. On every foot of 
ground alum, magnesia, tar- 
taric acid, epsom salts, am- 
monia, nitre, iron and sulphur 
abound, being constantly sput- 
tered out from caldrons of 
black, sulphurous, boiling- 
water. At thousands of ori- 
fices you find hot, scalding- 
steam escaping, and forming 
beautiful deposits of snowy 
sulphur crystals. The tourist 
can hardly form conclusions 
from a description of this Plu- 
tonian realm, this branch of 
Hades, nestling among um- 
brageous oaks and firs, this roundixg cape horn. 

prodigious laboratory and Olla {From Nordhoff's Cali/omia, published by f/ar/er &= Brothers.^ 




74 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

podrida of liquids and salts. With its " Devil's Kitchen," its " Devil's Inkstand," its 
" Devil's Armchair," and its " Devil's Machine Shop," this " Devil's Cailon " is a devil 
of a place, and the injunction of " Don't you forget it " is unnecessary. The fame of 
the big trees of Calaveras and Mariposa groves is known to every schoolboy. These 
enormous giants of the forest grow so large that theatrical performances may be 
given on their stumps, and stage-coaches driven through holes cut in their trunks 

while still standing. 

" The giant trees, in silent majesty, 

Like pillars stand 'neath Heaven's mighty dome. 
'Twould seem that, perched upon their topmost branch, 
With outstretched finger man might touch the stars." 

Hitell, in his " Resources of California," says: " One of the trees which is down — 
the Father of the Forest — must have been four hundred and fifty feet high and forty 
feet in diameter. In 1853 one of the largest trees, ninety-two feet in circumference 
and over three hundred feet high, was cut down. Five men worked twenty-five 
da^'S in felling it, using large augers. According to Mr. Hutchings's statement, the 
Calaveras Grove of Big Trees was the first one discovered by white men, and the 
date was the spring of 1852. The person who first stumbled on these vegetable mon- 
sters was Mr. A. T. Dowd, a hunter employed by the Union Water Company to supply 
the men in their employ with fresh meat, while digging a canal to bring the water 
down to Murphy's. According to the accounts, the discoverer found that his story 
gained so little credence among the workmen that he was obliged to resort to a ruse 
to get them to where the trees were." 

Foremost among the lakes of California — of wliich there are many folded in the 
mountain-tops like emeralds in their setting — and ranking all others in point of rare 
beauty and situation, is Lake Tahoe. It is a magnificent sheet of water, twenty-five 
miles in length and in some places from twelve to fourteen miles in width. It has a 
depth of 1,700 hundred feet, an altitude of 6,216 feet, and is surrounded by mountains 
which tower above the lake from 2,000 to nearly 5,000 feet. More might be said of 
Tahoe, perhaps, than of any other spot in California — excepting, always, Yosemite. 
There are grandeur and enchantment at all times in the scenery which environs the 
lake, and the panorama of mountain and valley, meadow-land and wood-land, sun- 
shine and cloud, as viewed from Tahoe City, is spacious, inspiriting and impressive. 
The summer sunsets upon Tahoe are remarkable for their great beauty and wealth of 
coloring, and are pronounced by European tourists as superior to those so often 
mirrored in Lakes Como and Maggiore. Donner Lake perpetuates the name of 
George Donner, an early emigrant, who, with his wife and a large number of other 
men and women belonging to an expedition, were overtaken by a tremendous storm 
of snow early in the winter of 1846, during which many perished, at a point upon the 
old stage-road not far distant from this beautiful body of water. Some years ago 
a well-known California writer produced a volume entitled " Fate of the Donner 
Party," in which he apostrophizes this enchanting lake as follows : " Three miles 
from Truckee lies one of the fairest and most picturesque lakes in all the Sierras. 
Above and on either side are lofty mountains, with castellated granite crests, while 
below, at the mouth of the lake, a grassy, meadowy valle}' widens out and extends 
almost to Truckee. The body of water is three miles long, one mile and a half wide, 
and 4S3 feet in depth. Tourists and picnic parties annually flock to its shores, and 



•MOUNTAIN RESORTS. 



75 



Bierstadt has made it the subject of one of his finest, grandest paintings. In summer, 
its willowy thickets, its groves of tamarack and forests of pine are the favorite haunts 
and resting-places of the quail and grouse. Beautiful speckled mountain trout plenti- 
fully abound in its crystalline waters, which reflect as in a polished mirror the lofty 
overhanging mountains, with every stately pine, bounding rivulet, blossoming shrub 
and waving fern." 

The tourist who would see California at its best should visit it in the spring. With 
the month of June the dry season sets in, and vegetation becomes parched and dusty. 
In March, April and May the country is at its loveliest. But portions of the State 




FISHING IN DONNER LAKE. 
[From Nordhoff^s California^ published by Harper &f Brothers.'\ 

are latterly much sought as winter resorts. Los Angeles, Ventura, Santa Barbara, San 
Diego, and San Bernardino counties, all in the southern part of the State, form 
what is generally known as " Tropical California," a land 

" Where a wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows, 
And the groves are of laurel and myrtle and rose," 

where luscious fruits of many species and unnumbered varieties load the trees, and 
gentle breezes come through the bowers. Much has been written of the influence of 
external nature upon national character. It is considered as established that extreme 
cold dulls the intellect, that extreme heat debases morals and enervates the body; 
that the temperate zone only can produce a really high and pure civilization. It has 
further been noted that the people of mountainous countries are, other things being 
equal, superior to the people of level countries, and the dwellers on the sea-coast to 
those of the interior. The Californian, like the Greek, has every advantage of natu- 



76 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



ral surroundings. To reach, California, take the most convenient route to Chicago, 
whence a choice of two routes is offered; the Northwestern or Chicago & Rock Island 
to Omaha, and thence by the Union Pacific or by the Southern route via the Atkin- 
son, Topeka & Santa Fe and Southern Pacific. The latter is not much favored on 
account of the alkali dust so troublesome in crossing the plains. 

THE CATSKILLS. 

It is but justice to say that 
there is not a mountainous region 
on the globe more picturesque and 
varied and more naturally the home 
of romance and tradition, than that 
of twenty or thirty miles square 
which embrace the rare Catskills. 
If one approach them from the 
Hudson, his first glimpse will show 
Round Top and High Peak tower- 
ing into the sky, with the other 
mountains gathered about them, as 
children about their parents. The 
ascent by the stage-route, from the 
village of Catskill, is so easy as to 
seem, at first, tame; but the charm of the way soon 
disposes of any such sentiment. The fine, full- 
foliaged trees in Rip Van Winkle's dell make a 
pleasant period for the backward views; the noble 
North Mountain continually rises before and gives 
dignity to the scene ; vistas of blue-browed hills 
stretch out before to an unexpected reach; the walk up-grade 
is beguiled by the music of invisible waterfalls, while the 
tender sigh of the woods and the sweet breath of the flowers 
linger in the sylvan cool, and a peaceful spell broods on the 
dreamy outlooks. Eight miles ahead one steps from behmd 
the large hotel on the landing and from the platform looks 
down upon a view as original as superb. The climbing of 
the mountain has been so natural and the ascent so cunningly 
covered by the hand of nature, that it is bewildering and de- 
lightful to be thus suddenly perched 2,700 feet above yon dis- 
tant, shaving-like Hudson, and look down into this royal 
sweep. On one side mountains and ravines, gorges and dells, 
glittering waterfalls and shining brooks, all framed in the 
deep green of the grand forests, with here and there a touch 
of color in a clump of flowers. On the other side, sheer down 
at the bottom of the precipice, and at the foot of the moun- 
tains, the apparently flat surface of the valley spreads out to =^^ 
the Hudson, which rolls out its slender, silver length for " ~ _ -^=.-: 

fifty miles; here toy houses and tiny buildings, the quiet homes inspiration rock. 




MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 7 7 

of those toiling farmers, who look like insects crawling over the plain below. The 
two opposed sections as sharply separated as if an express order of the Maker had 
placed here the rugged and picturesque, there the fair and pastoral. Further out, the 
forests on their summits serve to mark the line of hills stretching out toward 
Saugerties. Over the river the country seems to have been purposely placed on exhi- 
bition slope to show as much of the rolling surface as possible, while the horizon is 
circled by the Hudson Highlands, the Berkshire Hills and the Green Mountains, 
which unite their chains in a line of blue that grows dim and distant in the gather- 
ing twilight. 

At many points in the Catskills one may, from his bed, see the sun rise a hundred 
miles away, glorify the distant summits of the Green Mountains in Vermont, sparkle 
on the White Mountains, light up the rich Connecticut plains, and then flood the 
whole ten thousand square miles that lie within the range of the eye. From Table 
Rock, on North Mountain, may be had a magnificent view of this landscape from one 
standpoint. From South Mountain, one may see the Catskill Pass and the peaks of 
New Jersey, while the ambitious may climb so high as to imagine he sees, beyond the 
intervening beauties, the city of Albany, — an anthill in a meadow. The mountains 
have pilgrimages innumerable, and exquisite nooks in abundance. In the region of 
Round Top and High Peak are the two lakes. North and South, whose common out- 
let falls into a deep cleft, the first fall one hundred and eighty feet, the second eighty 
feet, and the third forty feet. The falls are seen to advantage from below, where the 
walls behind rise, rugged and broken, three hundred feet. The supply of water 
bqing limited, a dam has been placed across the verge of the cliff, and ordinarily a 
thin ribbon drops over, but at certain periods the dam is opened, and the body of 
water dashes down in spirited style, the curling spray flies back into one's face, and 
out amongst the big boulders, half-hidden by nodding ferns, the red-capped rubus 
and tender-tinted laurel bushes, the Cauterskill bounds and sparkles from the cool, 
dark depths, to wind its devious way eight miles to the Hudson, which it enters near 
the village. After an hour or so spent in exploring this fine glen, a delightful walk 
to the Clove, a mile distant, may make a charming period to the initiative excursion, 
or, if one chose, he may ramble a mile and a half to Sunset Rock, which commands 
some noble views. 

The Hotel Kaaterskill is situated upon the topmost peak of the mountain from 
which it takes its name, three thousand feet above the sea-level, and from its broad 
porches commanding views of ten thousand square miles of the valley of the Hudson, 
with sixty miles of that, the most beautiful river in the world, in the foreground. 
Looking northward the Adirondacks are seen stretching away from the base, east- 
ward the Green Mountains and the Berkshire Hills, and to the south the Highlands. 
It is only from the peaks of the Pacific Slope that views of greater breadth and 
grandeur of beauty are to be obtained, but upon them there is no Hotel Kaaterskill to 
offer its hospitality to the tired tourist or loiterer by the pleasant ways, nor are they 
within a few hours of the great Eastern centres of population, as the Hotel Kaaterskill 
is. This hotel is the largest mountain hotel in the world, having accommodations 
for twelve hundred guests, many suits of rooms for families, and sixty suits with 
baths, toilets, &c. It is heated by steam and by wood fires and lighted by gas and 
electricity. It has a resident physician, pharmacy, full band of music, telegraph 
office, post-office, and extensive livery ; a large hall for conventions, concerts, balls, 



78 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



and dramatic exhibitions. The beautiful Kaaterskill lakes are within one-half mile 
of the hotel, furnishing boating and fishing. The celebrated Kaaterskill Clove is 
within three miles, Sunset Rock is a half mile distant, Kaaterskill Falls one mile, 
Haines's Falls two miles and a half. 




KAATERSKILL HOUSE. 

One of the most romantic resorts in the Catskills is Haines's Falls. In the first 
leap of one hundred and fifty feet, and the second of eighty feet, the water is churned 
and broken up into a white, angry mass, which continues in its downward course a 
quarter of a mile, in which space the stream is lowered four hundred and seventy-five 
feet. The way down from the foot of these beautiful and varied falls is through the 
Kaaterskill Clove, a ravine so rare as to form a fitting station between the laughing 
waters and the plain beneath. Here are the curved and tumbled High Rocks and the 
Fawn's Leap Falls. The edge of these falls sweeps around in a fine curve, that seems 
like a heavy piece of masonry work, while the water pitches thirty feet into an im- 
mense pit of granite. At the mouth of the Clove lies Palensville, a railroad terminus, 
and six miles from the town is Plattekill Clove, reached by a rough road. The prin- 
cipal feature of this Clove is the Black Chasm Falls, three hundred feet high. A 
ride on the railroad through Stony Clove, some six miles distant, gives a good idea 
of mountain engineering, and shows some interesting and wild perspectives. Four 
miles west of the entrance to this Clove, Hunter Mountain rears its head four thou- 
sand and eighty-two feet. 

The most prominent of the Catskills is High Peak, six miles from the main 
hotels. The trip is generally undertaken by the venturesome, as the way is rough 
and hard, but the magnificent view from the summit (thirty-eight hundred and four 



MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 



79 



feet high) of the combined outlooks well repays the toil. The southern portion of the 
Catskills is not so well known as the region more particularly alluded to above, but 
abounds in lofty spurs, such as the Storm King (four thousand feet high), Cornell 
Mountain, Overlook Mountain, &c., while spots like the Poet's Glen, Overlook Rock, 
Lover's Retreat, and the Pilgrim's Pass, are as charming as their names are suggestive. 
The casual mention of these points of interest can give no idea of the riches held 
in store. One walk along the Cauterskill from Fawn's Leap Falls to Haines's Falls 
will reveal such a succession of beauties that many a lovely picture will linger in 
one's memory for years to come. Dewy rock grottoes open into others beyond, and 
everywhere sweet moss-laid 
nooks, where fairies might 
hold carnival under the 
shade of the brightly- 
dressed, immaculate iron- 
wood, the broad-crowned 
alders, and the swaying 
mountain willows. The air 
is laden with woody -per- 
fumes, and the smell of the 
junipers, the cedars, the 
spruces, and the balsams, 
that sweep away all taint 
of the far-off city, and in- 
fuse new vigor into the 
frame of the weary worker. 
It is the one added spell to 
the charms of the vistas be- 
yond and the forest around, 
where the beautiful white 
birch coquettes with the 
dignified oak and smiles on 
the blushing maple. The 
banks and by-ways are pink 
and white with the bloom 
of the laurel, and theground 
is spread with an artistic 
rug of white pipsissewa 
trumpets, pointed with 
blue-eyed grass, and re- 
lieved here and there by 
clusters of pink ear-drops, 
maiden's-hair fern, the pur- 
ple fox -glove, and many 
another delicate spray; and 
down through these glens 
goes the Cauterskill, in and 
out, now murmuring 




8o 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



around a gentle curve, and now breaking into a thousand rills at the brink of a preci- 
pice, to meet in a merry volume further down the brook. What coy glimpses of 
beauty open as the stream dashes on its course ! Nearly at the bottom of the gorge 
is a spot where one may sit in the shadows of the rocks, beneath the falls, and dream 
out a day. The sketches that many nature-loving artists have taken from this point 
tell but a part of the story one may read in the way of the brook, now silvery and 
glancing, now rainbow-hued, and waving arms of wind-tossed spray; in the witchery 
of the trembling bowers of softly-lit foliage ; in the fresh colors of starry flowers 
painted on a background of green-fringed rock ; in the music of the birds, mingling 
with the song of the waters, when, over all, is that indescribable benison that rests 
upon one in the midst of nature's own retreats. 

Rev. Howard Crosby says: "Those tourists who know the Catskills only 
from visits to their eastern face have a very meagre idea of their grandeur and 
beauty. The highest summits and wildest scenery are found thirty miles from the 
old resort of tourists. The Shandaken Catskills form the very centre of romantic 
interest. You can reach the heart of the Catskills from New York by the West Shore 
Railroad to Kingston, thence by the Ulster & Delaware Railroad, which carries you 
along the banks of the beautiful Esopus, through many enchanting scenes and up a 
grade of remarkable steepness to the crowning heights of Pine Hill and Summit 




THE GRAND HOTEL. 



Mountain at Grand Hotel Station, where the railroad is two thousand feet above *he 
Hudson. Out from Pine Hill flows one branch of the Esopus, down a narrow valley, 
from the north comes another, and three miles below the Big Indian stream from the 
south joins these two united, and thence onward the dashing water is known as the 



MO UN TA IN RESOR TS. 8 1 

Esopus till it enters the Hudson at Saugerties. On the summit itself is the Grand 
Hotel, with its glorious prospect over the head-waters of the Delaware. Go which 
way you will from the Grand Hotel and you will stumble upon nature's beauties." 

" Midst greens and shades the Cauterskill leaps, 
From cliffs where the wood-flower clings ; 
All summer he moistens his verdant steps, 

With the sweet light spray of the mountain springs ; 
And he shakes the woods on the mountain side, 
When thev drip with the rains of autumn tide." 

The Catskills are easy of access. Boats run daily from New York, morning and 
evening, or the traveler may go via the West Shore or Hudson River railroads to 
Catskill station. The West Shore line is the favorite and picturesque route. Omni- 
buses from the landing to the village. A railroad from Catskill to Palensville, where 
Kaaterskill Clove debouches on the Hudson River valley, saves stage-ride to those 
wishing to go to Pine Orchard, Round Top, and adjacent points. Another route is 
by the new Stony Clove Railroad, which connects with the Delaware & Ulster at 
Phoenicia and runs to Hunter on Schoharie Creek, a distance of twelve miles. A 
stage route from Tannersville Junction on this road leads to principal points. 
The West Shore road connects with the Delaware & Ulster at Kingston, for Phoenicia, 
Pine Hill, and other points in that direction. The mountains may be entered from 
the south by railway from Rondout to West Hurley, and thence by stage. A fee of 
twenty-five cents is usually charged at points of interest. The hotel and boarding 
houses are numerous, and range in prices from $1.50 to $4.50 per day, and $10 to $25 
per week. 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The most distinctively mountainous section east of the Rockies is that tract 
stretching from Mohawk River on the south to Canada on the north, with the his- 
toric and beautiful Lakes Champlain and George on the east, and the clear St. Law- 
rence at the northwest. The mountains, to the number of five hundred, have been 
placed upon a plateau, itself two thousand feet above the level of the sea, in five 
ranges, which cross in parallel lines from northeast to southwest, and rise in tiers 
toward the west, the highest mountains, Seward, Mclntyre, McMartin, Whiteface, 
Dix Peak, Colden Santanoni, Snowy Mountain, and Pharaoh, all nearly 5,000 feet 
high, and Mt. Marcy, 5,337 feet high, being in the most western Clinton or Adiron- 
dack range. The mountains are remarkable for their uniformity in the matter of 
height. There are loftier spurs in both the White Mountains of New Hampshire and 
in the Black Mountains of North Carolina, but the Adirondacks have a higher aver- 
age than either of these. In the valley between these ranges and mountains lie a 
thousand lakes, that mirror on their polished bosoms the steep and densely-wooded 
declivities and the stony summits above. Everywhere are these bodies of water, 
spread over a reach twenty miles long, or nestling in a hollow, pent up within the 
bounds of a few rods ; in a basin in the raised floor of this region, fifteen hundred 
feet above the sea, or, as Lake Perkins, up in the clouds, three times as high. The 
largest of the lakes are the Fulton lakes, the Saranacs, Tupper, Long Lake, Colden, 
Henderson, Sanford, Eckford, Raquette, Forked, Newcomb and Pleasant. Down the 
by-ways from lake to lake a maze of brooks and rivers join the waters of the moun- 
tains, flowing through the valleys, as the Saranac and the Ausable, in marking lines 
of silver to separate the ranges, or as the Boreas, the Cedar and the Hudson rivers. 



82 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



cracking through rock-ribbed courses to meet in a common band below, that winds 
away to the waiting sea. These latter views clearly define the southern continuation 
of the valleys traced above by the Ausable, while Raquette Lake, Long Lake, and the 

Fulton lakes follow the depres- 
sions from the Saranac to the 
southwest. In Raquette Lake 
rises the river of the same 
name — the river of the moun- 
tains ; born among them and 
of them, the pride and beauty 
of the Adirondacks, it sweeps 
along a devious course for one 
hundred and twenty miles, and 
finally mingles its sweet waters 
with those of the St. Lawrence. 
There are half a dozen dif- 
ferent routes into the Adiron- 
dacks and the Wilderness, and 
one may follow his fancy or 
suit his conv^enience by travel- 
ing along the line of the moun- 
tains, or climbing across the 
ranges. At the northeast, the 
sentinel of the system is White- 
face Mountain, which looms up 
from the Wilmington side, su- 
perb and grand, a mountain 
view rarely equaled. From the 
summit of Whiteface one looks 
out to peaks beyond and moun- 
tains about, over forests charg- 
ing up the heights, and far 
down the valleys to the south, 
beyond lovely Lake Placid, 
and down at the north side of 
the mountain on the jagged, 
GRAND iLUMK, AusAiiLK CHASM. decp aud narrow chasm, the 

" Notch," through which the turbulent Ausable leaps in a series of rapids and cataracts. 
One might make a lengthy sojourn in this neighborhood, climbing the mountains to 
gaze upon the grand scene, looking at the Monarch himself from a boat on Lake Placid, 
visiting Paradox Pond, whose outlet at high water flows back into the pond, or explor- 
ing Saranac Lake, a beautiful sheet, seven miles long, and having fifty-two romantic 
islands, wooded to the water's edge, where the hemlock waves their feathery arms, 
beckoning to the shadows at their feet. A very pleasant escape might be made by going 
down the Saranac River to Round Lake, a pretty, island-dotted circle of water, over 
which at times, the most terrific storms rage. Tracing around the curve of the river 
one enters the Upper Saranac I>ake, the largest of the Adirondack lakes, due west from 




. MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 8 5 

Lake Placid and Saranac Lake, eight miles long, and from one to three miles wide. 
Some few miles to the north, past the half-yay Clear Lake, and beside the mountain 
of the same name, is St. Regis Lake, one of the most picturesque of the group, sur- 
rounded by numerous ponds, on the outskirts of civilization, and connected with Up- 
per Saranac Lake by the " Route of the Nine Carries." 

To the southwest of the section described is a region filled with all that can in- 
terest the sportman or delight the lover of nature. By steamer down the beautiful 
Raquette to Tupper Lakes, and one is fairly started on the round. Into this lake the 
Bog River, rich with speckled trout, drops in a charming cascade. Up this river 
and beyond several "carries" is the lonely and sequestered sister of the former lake, 
Little Tupper Lake, whose gentle waves lap on a precipitous and rocky shore. Then 
past a series of ponds and "carries" and the Raquette Falls to Long Lake, a watery 
seam in the valley for nearly twenty miles, from which one may see Mt. Seward rearing 
his head above the rolling plateau between. Farther south the lovely Forked Lake 
and the final Raquette Lake, the home of a host of wild birds and beasts. This whole 
section, including the southwestward Fulton Lake and the surrounding chain of eight 
lakes, is rich in varied scenery and mountain fastnesses, and abounds with game. 

Opposite Port Kent on the Champlain and three miles distant is Ausable Chasm, 
a wild and beautiful cut through which the Ausable, after dashing seventy feet over 
the Birmingham Falls and then leaping the Horseshoe Falls, flows between walls a 
hundred feet high and fifty feet apart, in a channel at places but little more than two 
yards wide. The chasm is made easy of access by a stairway of a hundred and sixty- 
six steps, and throughout the nooks and rocks and pools are guarded by rails and 
fences as in the similar Watkins' Glen. To enter the central eastern part of the 
Adirondack region one leaves Westport on " Northwest Bay," passing Hurricane 
Peak, the Giant of the Valley, Bald Mount to the right, round-topped Cobble Hill, 
and the Roaring Brook Falls, where a mountain stream dashes over a precipice five 
hundred feet high, to reach the monarch of them all — Mt. Marcy. A hara climb up 
the picturesque trail to the summit discloses the most magnificent view to be obtained 
amongst the mountains. The great peaks filing away in splendid ranges, and rising 
and falling in the distance, lakes studded with green-fringed islets and encircled by 
dense, heavy-foliaged forests, river and brooks chaining the lakes in rare bands glanc- 
ing in the sunlight and leaping over beetling cliffs, great gorges and wild chasms 
splitting through the flanks of the mountains or opening down into the bottom of the 
plateau. One must himself stand upon the lofty height and look out upon all these 
wilds, with the Green Mountains of Vermont and Lake Champlain in the fore and 
background, to picture the indescribably grand landscape. 

Coming up to Mt. Marcy on the other side and from the south, the most notable 
body of water passed is Schroon Lake, a delightful resort in itself. On this side of 
Mt. Marcy are some of the most prominent mountains in the system, and many noble 
views. The trail up leads by Avalanche Lake, a very high and lovely sheet of water, 
and that unique and stupendous gorge, Indian Pass, in the most savage part of 
"Conyacragu," or Dismal Wilderness. This section is the wildest and most difficult 
in the Adirondacks, explored only by the adventurous sportsman, who at any step 
may have to look along the barrel of his rifle into the eyes of a black bear, a wolf, a 
panther, or a lynx. In the centre of this pass, 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, 
rises the Hudson from the midst of rocky recesses, where winter lingers through the 



84 ' OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

year, and close beside the source of the great river are the springs from whose cold 
depth the Ausable rises, so close beside, fn fact, that "the wild-cat, lapping the waters 
of the one, may bathe his hind feet in the other; and a rock rolling from the precipice 
above could scatter spray from both in the same concussion." 

Blue Mountain Lake is a gem among the smaller lakes of this region. It rests 
about 1, 800 feet above tide. It is very irregular in shape, its greatest diameter being 
about three miles. The Prospect House, situated 200 feet above the lake, is a new 
hotel erected on the site of the Old Ordway House, and is the largest, as well as the 
finest hotel in the Adirondacks. It has accommodations for about 600 persons, and is 
furnished with all modern conveniences. A steamer leaves Blue Mountain Lake every 
morning, passing through the intervening lakes with their connecting streams to the 
foot of U^owana Lake, where a good road leads to the head of navigation on Marion 
River. There are also small steamers on the lake subject to charter. This region is 
reached from New York by any of the routes into the Wilderness, but the most direct 
is via West Shore and Delaware & Ulster to Saratoga, and thence by Adirondack 
Railroad to North Creek, whence there is a delightful stage ride of four hours — 
modern conveyances. 

In a brief sketch it would be impossible to enumerate the various points of 
interest and the many spots where the smoke has risen from camp-fires in the thirty 
years since the Adirondacks were explored. Suffice it to say that nature has furnished 
the Wilderness in a manner to suit the most cosmopolitan taste. A party may find 
recreation and enjoyment in the neighborhood of the many good hotels, and pass the 
time in the orthodox pursuits common to mountain resorts; or a company of good 
spirits may don red-flannel shirts and cowhide boots, and with guides row down the 
rivers and across the lakes, through files of flags and grassy shallows, or shoot along the 
rushing rapids to float out into beds of the pickerel-flower, past banks lined with white 
and gold,lilies, that load the air with perfume, and paddle at eventide toward some 
little bay, over rustling rushes and spongy pads. Then begin the free, the joyous out- 
door life. The axes ring out, and the echoes wander through woods that mayhap 
never caught the sound before. The spruces, cedars and pines about contribute to 
the planting of the tent, and beneath the oak, linden, birch, poplar or fir, the camp- 
fire throws out a ruddy glow. All about are the magnificent forests, with sturdy 
giants, jungles of undergrowth and prostrate monarchs that once sighed amongst 
their kind without a human ear to hearken. What a paradise for a sportsman ! To 
row out on some lovely lake by golden sands and patches of lilies, with the fragrant 
breath of the balsam and the pine in the air, and have the guides send the boat 
cleaving into a narrow opening overhung by bushes, and there in the lily-lined and 
gold-flecked stream of black, slow-running water, to see the sweet vista broken every- 
where by leaping, splashing, splendid-spotted trout. Ah ! here and there they rush, 
cleaving the surface in hot pursuit of a dancing gnat, or jumping clear out of the 
brook to seize a passing fly. Then to come to rest in some steady pool, around a tufted 
bank, and with the trees hanging out their branches overhead uncoil the leader and cast 
out the flies, and as in a gleam of yellow light the hackle disappears, strike down the 
pliant rod to fix the hook, and then play and humor and control the game fish as he 
whirls in his mad course around the pool- The fine lance-wood curves and quivers, 
and the silken hair whirls over the reel, but skillful management brings him at last to 
the surface gasping, to be scooped up in the landing-net and breathe his last at the 



MO UN TA IN RESOR TS. 



«5 



bottom of the boat. To those who prefer the rifle to the rod the forests offer many 
attractions, and paramount to all, deer-hunting. One may steal out at night, and 
with muffled oar, paddle noiselessly along the borders of a lake, till a dark outline 
ahead indicates a deer. As the lantern is opened the bright ray shoots across the 
waters and the animal looks up in momentary bewilderment. No one who has not at 
such a time held in his hand a breech-loader, and at the click of the trigger seen the 
deer bound away in the line of the gleaming sights, can appreciate the thrill that 
courses through him as the sharp report rings out on the night air, nor the exultation 
that rises into a cheer, if the report is followed bv the crash of the falling deer. All 







PROSPECT HorsE, BLUE MuLMAlN LAKE. 



I 



the caution and cunning and skill of an experienced hunter, however, are needed to 
often enjoy the pleasure. But without the hunting and fishing, there are nfany ways 
of spending the days — exploring the nooks and corners of the lakes and ponds, run- 
ning the rapids of some dashing streams, or admiring the grand scenery as it opens 
before the boatman. To know the delights of a savage life one must leave civilization 
behind, and in the heart of the wilderness drink in health and strength, and be glad 
in perfect peace and forgetfulness. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

While the Alps, the Sierra Nevada, the Yosemite, and other mountain regions may 
contain higher mountains, deeper valleys, broader lakes, more extensive vistas, yet 
there is nothing to rival the White Mountains in their infinite variety of scenery, 
manifold kaleidoscopic combinations of natural grandeur and landscape effects; the 



36 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

contrasts and brilliance of color, too, varying not only with the seasons, but with the 
changing hours of the day. Their valleys and glens, redounding with historic interest, 
unlike the unoccupied forests beneath the peaks of the Rockies or the desolate glaciers 
of the Alps, have been the sites of towns known to many generations, and are still 
occupied by the hard)' descendants of the ancient conquerors of both wilderness and a 
savage foe. The comparatively ready accessibility of this truly wonderful region, with its 
inexhaustible supply of rich material for every tourist, whether he crave sensational 
effects, high artistic pleasure, wild rambles, or grand solitude — with its stupendous 
mountains, hanging rocks and crags, crystal streams,verdant woods and meadows, grand 
cascades and roaring torrents, deep ravines, and beautiful valleys and lakes^ — renders it 
an inexplicable surprise that so many American people should cross the ocean to admire 
scenery most of which is inferior to this charming portion of New England. It 
will be the endeavor of this chapter to hastily conduct the tourist through this 
grand and picturesque region, and point out the principal attractions and places of 
interest. It may be noted at the outset that excellent hotels and boarding-houses will 
be found in every village and hamlet; and at no place will the visitor find the country 
lacking in this respect. 

Occupying the northern portion of New Hampshire, and wuthin a half-da)r's ride 
from Boston, are the highlands called the White Mountains, comprising two clusters 
or groups of peaks, locally known as the White and Franconia Mountains, divided by 
table-land from ten to twenty miles wide. A ride from Boston via the Eastern Rail- 
road to Conway, one hundred and thirty-two miles, will bring the tourist to this beau- 
tifully situated village, which serves as an excellent centre for many short and interest- 
ing excursions. To the visitor preferring the air of rural quiet to the social attractions 
and brilliant life of its fashionable neighbor. North Conway, it affords great advant- 
ages. Five miles to the north is the summer capital of the mountain region, North 
Conway, one of the prettiest towns in New England. It is a favorite rendezvous for 
artists and the fashionable world, and very largely frequented throughout the best 
part of the season, which the Rev. Thomas Starr King says is "from the middle of 
June to the middle of July." The very entrance into North Conway seems like the 
introduction through a beautiful gateway of mountains into the retreats of nature — 
grand, imposing, entrancing. Admirable views present themselves on all sides. 
Looking up the village street Thorn Mountain is seen, behind which lies Jackson, and 
farther on, up the Ellis River valley, Gorham and Androscoggin. To the right the 
gentle slopes of the Kearsarge rise, with the silver-gray crest of the mountain tower- 
ing to the clouds; to the left the Ledges and Moat Mountains present themselves, the 
abrupt declivities of the latter forming a fitting termination to the picturesque 
scenery of the beautiful valley beneath it. Following the old stage-road from North 
Conway in a northwesterly direction, the tourist finds beautiful prospects all along 
the route as he passes through the Cathedral Woods, past the Intervale House, with 
Mount Kearsarge to his right. Moat Mountain on the left, and with the most charming 
views opening into the Saco intervales. Soon Thorn Mountain is passed on the right, the 
Ellis River, the runaway from Mount Washington, is crossed, and the town of Jack- 
son is reached. This hamlet is very prettily situated and a favorite resort, affording 
fine views of Tin, Thorn, Moat and Iron Mountains. The Jackson Falls, within the 
village, and visible from the highway bridge over Wild Cat Brook, present a pretty 
scene, the water being precipitated in glistening white bands over a high dark ledge 



MO UN TA IN RE SO A' TS. 



87 



into foaming pools below. Trout-fishing in the brook is one of the favorite pastimes of 
the many tourists sojourning here. Beautiful views of Mount Washington are ob- 
tained from the Fernald and Prospect farms, near Jackson. Between Jackson and 
Goodrich Falls, one and a half miles below, the prospect is one of the finest in the 
highlands. The Carter Notch will repay the tourist well for the time spent upon 
visiting it. From here the visitor may take the stage for the Glen House. This hotel 
is at the very base of the monarch of the White Mountains, Mount Washington. 
Luxuriant forest scenery opens on every side as the traveler progresses into the Glen, 
which is three hours by stage from Glen Station. The latter point can be reached 
via the Grand Trunk and Eastern Railroad, or by any of the routes over Mount 
Washington. The five highest peaks of the White Mountains (Madison, Adams, Jef- 




MT. WAbHINGTON, FROM FAVKANS. 
[From The Hem I 0/ the White Mountains^ published by Uarfer if Brothers.} 

ferson, Clay and Washington) present themselves in grand array from this point. The 
disciple of Walton may enjoy good troiit-fishing in the vicinity, while the general 
tourist will find the neighborhood abounding with points of interest, chief among 
which are the Garnet Pools, the Imp, Thompson's Falls, the Emerald Pool, the Glen- 
Ellis Falls, the Crystal Cascade, and Carter Dome. From the Glen House the road 
leads along the Peabody Valley, a distance of eight miles, to Gorham, the nearest vil- 
lage to the great peaks north of Mount Washington. The village, which is an 
important station of the Grand Trunk Railroad, 812 feet above the sea, and is located 
in a broad valley, whose dry, bracing air is healthful and invigorating. East of Gor- 
ham, near the railroad station (Grand Trunk line) of Shelburne, is spread, over a 




CRYSTAL CASCADE. 
[Fra>u The Heart of the }l'/iite Mountains, fublislicd l<y Harper &f Brother; 



rugged and mountainous 
area, the little hamlet of 
Shelburne, the road thro' 
which is, according to Mr. 
King, unsurpassed by any 
drive of equal length among 
the mountains, for varied 
interest in beauty of scen- 
ery, historic and traditional 
associationsconnected with 
'the prominent points of the 
landscape, and the scien- 
tific attractions of some 
portions of it. The chief 
mountains of the town are 
the Ingalls, Baldcap, and 
the northern peaks of Mo- 
riah. Mount Winthrop, 
within the town, affords an 
excellent point for over- 
looking the Androscoggin 
Valley, with the Newry 
range and other mountain 
heights of western Maine in 
the distance. Continuing 
the trip in the opposite di- 
rection from Gorham, the 
nearest station reached is 
Berlin Falls. The An- 
droscoggin River descends 
here, nearly 200 feet in one 
mile of its course, in power- 
ful falls and rapids, the 
most interesting being the 
Berlin Falls. Other note- 
worthy points are the Al- 
pine Cascades and Mount 
Forest. A favorite drive 
with visitors to this locality 
is that over the Milan road 
along the river through its 
picturesque valley to Milan, 
eight miles distant. From 
West Milan and Green's 
Ledge grand views of the 
mountain ranges and the 
Androscoggin Valley re- 
ward the tourist for the 
trip. 



MO UN TA IN RE SOR TS. 8 9 

Returning from this northwardly invasion into this beautiful region of the White 
Mountains towards its grand centre of observation, North Conway, the Portland and 
Ogdensburg Railroad may serve as a basis of further operations, with the little ham- 
let of Upper Bartlett for a starting-point. This place is admirably situated, being 
entirely surrounded by mountains. There are the Carrigan, Nancy Range, Tremont, 
and Haystack, on the west ; Hart's and Willoughby Ledges, Parker, Crawford, Reso- 
lution, Langdon, and Pickering, on the north ; Kearsarge and Moat to the east ; and 
Table and Bear Mountains to the south. Fine trouting in the tributaries of the Saco 
tempts the angler, and from here the fine view of Mount Carrigan is had which 
Champney's famous painting has made so widely known. Proceeding further, Bemis 
Station is reached, another centre of rich mountain scenery. Near the station is the 
old Mount Crawford House, whose site was occupied before the year 1800 by Abel 
Crawford. It was formerly one of the chief hostelries of the mountain region, but 
has long since been closed to the public. Interesting excursions may be made from 
here to the Crawford and Nancy Mountains, the latter of which derives its name from 
a romantic though sad incident in the early history of the neighborhood. 

The view from the Crawford House is particularly grand, with the pleasant Craw- 
ford Glen in the foreground, and many of the loftiest peaks of the region beyond. 
Between Willard, Willey, Webster, and Jackson Mountains (all of which may be seen 
from here), and dividing the Great New Hampshire group of mountains near its 
centre, is a deep pass, the White Mountain Notch. The massive walls are seen tow- 
ering to a height of two thousand feet, and, indeed, some of the highest peaks are 
lost to sight among the clouds. The base of the Notch forms the bed of the wild, 
impetuous Saco River, which descends through rocky debris of old avalanches, and 
winds about and dashes and splashes over huge boulders along this vast ravine. The 
splendor of autumnal scenes in the White Mountain Notch has been again and again 
enthusiastically described by the pen of the author and portrayed by the brush of the 
artist. A number of falls, notably the Flume and Silver Cascades, and the Ripley 
and Arethusa Falls, charm the visitor, and invite him to prolong his stay here. The 
Crawford House occupies the supposed bed of an ancient lake, upon a plateau nine- 
teen hundred feet above the sea. Near by are also the Gate of the Notch, the Ele- 
phant's Head, Bucher's Cascade, and Gibbs's Fall. Visits to Mounts Willard and 
Willey, from which beautiful views are obtained, are among the most pleasant and 
profitable tours to be made in this region. Four miles north of the Crawford, is the 
Fabyan House, fifteen hundred and seventy feet above the sea. Most of the summits 
of the Presidential range of mountains are visible from here. The Ammonoosuc 
Falls, where the stream descends over rapids for some distance above and then makes 
a fall of nearly fifty feet through a narrow gorge, whose walls are polished ledges of 
granite, the Giant's Grave, a mound of river gravel or a sandbar formed by the reac- 
tion of the ocean-waves against the adjacent hills, and many other points invite the 
tourist's attention. Good trout-fishing forms additional attraction. The twin Moun- 
tain House is located upon a terrace of the Ammonoosuc River, about five miles west 
of the Fabyan. The Twin Mountains, which are difficult of access, are best seen from 
Mounts Washington and Lafayette. The best point of advance is considered to be 
the head of Little River. Eight miles west of the Twin Mountain House is Bethle- 
hem Station, The usual approach to this point from the south is via the Boston, Con- 
cord and Montreal Road, and its Mount Washington branch. Passengers from North 



go 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



Conway go by the Ogdensburg Railroad through the Notch. Stages from the hotel 
will be found in waiting at the station. The village of Bethlehem Street, on a high 
plateau, fourteen hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, is said to be the 
highest village east of the Rocky Mountains. The view from here is broad and im- 
posing, and the surroundings lack little if any of the beauty of those of North Conway. 
The drives in the neighborhood are varied and delightful. Bethlehem is particu- 
larly sought by victims of hay fever, to whom it is a perfect harbor of refuge, 
while its sanitary advantages in other respect have made a sojourn here a frequent 
object of recommendation to other invalids. Eight miles north of Bethlehem, on the 
St. John's River, is the pretty town of Whitefield. The Howland Observatory is two 
miles distant from the village, and commands a grand view. Dalton is next reached 
at the head of the Fifteen-mile Falls of the Connecticut River, a chain of wild rapids 
in a narrow valley. Further on, towards the northwestern verge of the mountain 
region, one of the most beautiful villages of the White Mountains, Lancaster, is loca- 
ted. It has a delightful climate, and is surrounded by some of the best farms in the 
State. It lies on the Israel's River, near its confluence with the Connecticut. Of its 
beautiful valley, Sir Charles Dilke says : "The world can show few scenes more win- 
ning than Israel's River Valley." Pleasant drives in the vicinity of the village offer 
many advantages for extended excursions, and afford magnificent views, extending 
over the rich meadows and fruitful fields, and along the rivers to the distant moun- 
tain background. 

Turning back into the very heart of the northwestern region of the White Moun- 
tains, the hamlet of Jefferson 
Hill is encountered, eight miles 
southeast of Lancaster. Thomas 
Starr King says of it, enthusias- 
tically : "Jefferson Hill may, 
without exaggeration, be called 
the ultima thule of grandeur in an 
artist's pilgrimage among the 
New Hampshire mountains, for 
at no other point can he see the 
White Hills themselves in such 
array and force." From here 
many tours into the surrounding 
country, with grand views of 
the Presidential range of moun- 
tains, can be made. Visits to 
Mount Starr King, and Owl's 
Head, on Cherry Mountain, are 
especially interesting, as is also 
the ascent of Mount Adams and 
I'EMiGEWAssETT HOUSE, PLYMOUTH, N. H. thc drive to the top of Raudolph's 

Hill. The invasion into the ranks of the gigantic cluster of beautiful mountains, the 
Presidential Range, is thus made. A thousand wonders of the mountain-world lie 
open to the tourist in his rambles among these lofty peaks. The Lakes of the Clouds, 
five thousand feet above the sea, between Mounts Washington and Monroe; the Falls of 




MOUNTAIN RESORTS. 



91 



the Ammonoosuc River, which rises here, and descends over two thousand feet in the 
first three miles of its course; that stupendous declivity, Tuckerman's Ravine, with its 
wonderful snow-arch, formed by the solidification of the ponderous masses of snow 
driven into it by the winter storms, and filling it, while the mountain streams, passing 
beneath the icy cupola, carry off the snowy contents beneath, leaving the ice-arch sup- 
ported by the huge bolders of the ravine; the castellated ridge of Mount Jefferson, that 
invincible fortress of nature's own construction; the Great Gulf, that terrible yet fasci- 
nating gorge, with its wide-split crevasses, from which the encircling mountains appear 




ECHO LAKE. 
\_Froin The Heart of the White Mouniiihis, piihlished hy Harper 



Brothers.] 



to ascend, as if out of the mighty depths of the earth itself; Hermit Lake, King's Ra- 
vine, the Alpine Garden — all these, and many other points of interest awe and inspire 
with wonder, and delight the visitor. Mount Washington, the giant of the mountain 
range, is the highest point on the North Atlantic coast, its lofty peak rising to an alti- 
tude of sixty-two hundred and ninety feet above the level of the sea. Its summit has 
the arctic climate of Greenland, though twenty-six degrees farther south than the 
latter, and is above the limit of the tree-growing region. Pages of interesting de- 
scription might be written, and have been written, of the wonders seen from this ele- 
vation, penetrating, as it were, into the very secrets of the heavens. Thunder and light- 
ning playing among heavy "storms; rainbows remaining for hours, with two and three 
supplementary bows ; antherias and coronas, such as are never seen elsewhere in our 
latitudes : sunrises and sunsets of magic splendor; conflicts of the winds and clouds, 
the latter of wonderful varieties of shapes, colors, and movements ; and frostwork of 



9 2 OUR A M ERICA N RESOR TS. 

the most exquisite master character, are among the phenomena that may be witnessed 
upon this mountain, the spectator realizing almost the royal treasures with which wild 
fancy, in fairy stories, fills the interior of enchanted mountains, in the surroundings 
of this wonderful peak. The first ascent of Mount Washington was made by Darby 
Field, an Irishman, in June, 1642. Accompanied by two Indians, he started from Pis- 
cat (Portsmouth), accomplishing the journey in eighteen days. The view from the 
summit of Mount Washington encompasses nearly one thousand miles, embracing 
parts of five States, and the Province of Quebec, and sweeping over scores of villages 
and towns, hundreds of hills and mountains, and lakes, rivers, and valleys of New 
England. Provided with an abundance of heavy clothing, suitable for the arctic at- 
mosphere of the top, the tourist may ascend the mountain by the convenient railway 
to the summit. 

Five miles west of Bethlehem, at the busy little village of Littleton, the traveler 
will find himself again at a convenient starting-point for an exploring tour, this time 
directed toward the other division of the grand New Hampshire mountain range, the 
Franconia Mountains, which, while less imposing and majestic than the White, pos- 
sess features equally wonderfully, and often of greater beauty. The Franconia 
Notch, a valley five or six miles long, through which the Pemigewasset River pours 
its pure mountain waters, about ten miles south of Bethlehem, is reached by rail from 
the latter place, or by stage from Plymouth. The Notch is called by Rev. Starr King 
"a huge museum of curiosities." Harriet Martineau declared it the noblest moun- 
tain pass she saw in the United States. Nearly a mile north of the Profile House, 
situated near the north end of the Notch, is the beautiful Echo Lake. From a boat 
upon this pretty sheet of water, the human voice is echoed and re-echoed with pecu- 
liar distinctness, and the report of a cannon or gun is answered by artillery and mus- 
ketry from every mountain and hill. The singing of a song, or the playing of a tune 
upon a musical instrument, seems to make vocal the forests of every hill, or fill them 
with bands of musicians, reminding the listener, as the echoing notes die in the dis- 
tance, of the lines of the English poet laureate : 

"Oh hark ! oh hear ! How thin and clear, 
And thinner, clearer, farther going; 
Oh sweet and far, from cliff and scaur, 

The horns of elf-land faintly blowing ! 
Blow ! Let us hear the purple glens replying ; 
Blow, bugle ! Answer, echoes, dying, dying ! " 

Emerging from the Franconia Notch, and proceeding in his tour toward the 
southwestern portion of the mountain region, the visitor has reached the western 
part of the hill country, comprising what is termed the " Pemigewasset region," and 
completed his tour of the White Mountains country proper, which, while being mar- 
velously grand, picturesque, and enchanting, in almost every feature, does not, as a 
writer has said, " by any means monopolize the beautiful landscape visions scattered 
through the New England States. Mount Washington is not the only peak worth 
climbing, nor are the Conway Meadows the only dreamland." Some of the other 
beauties and delights of New England to the tourist are treated under other heads in 
this work. 



inenal (^pnnas \esorTs. 

" Iwpriiiiis, my darling, they drink 

The waters so sparkling and clear; 
Though the flavor is none of the best, 

And the odor exceedingly queer; 
But the fluid is mingled, you know, 

With wholesome medicinal things. 
So they drink, and they drink, and they drink. 

And that's what they do at the Springs. 

****** 

"In short — as it goes in the world — 

They eat, and they drink, and they sleep; 
They talk, and they walk, and they woo; 

They sigh, and they laugh, and they weep; 
They read, and they ride, and they dance, 

(With other unspeakable things); 
They pray, and they play, and they pay, 

And that's what they do at the Springs." 

IN various localities from Maine to California, the surface of our country is dotted 
with mineral springs, around which throngs of people gather every season, some 
to drink the waters, others to mingle in the whirl of pleasure and society they 
find there. The question whether mineral waters are really beneficial medicinally has 
been extensively discussed, and in spite of the incredulity and ridicule so long in- 
dulged by a portion of the medical profession, a verdict in favor of the waters has 
come to be generally accepted. Medical gentlemen now almost universally admit 
that patients afflicted with inveterate chronic diseases often resort to mineral springs 
with the result of a perfect cure. The pages of ancient authors frequently contain 
records of resorts where the sick bathed in healing waters or drank of medicinal foun- 
tains. In Greece the temples of /Esculapius were frequently erected near springs 
reputed to possess curative power. The ancient Athenians, during the summer 
months, sought the thermal-saline-sulphur baths of .^depsus, in the island of Euboea, 
about sixty miles by sea from Athens. The works of Latin writers contain frequent 
allusions to medicinal springs, testifying the esteem in which they were held by the 
Romans. In the brilliant days of imperial Rome, bathing formed a chief enjoyment 
of patrician and plebeian. The luxury of warm bathing was indulged in to such ex- 
cess that at one time eight hundred thermal baths could be counted within the city, 
and several of these would accommodate three thousand bathers. Many of these 
structures covered entire squares, and were adorned with every architectural beauty. 
An approach to them showed beautiful marble porticos, supported by many-fluted 
columns, and within was a labyrinth of marble halls and colonnades, decorated 
with statuary, and mosaics by the masters. Within the inclosure were gardens 
of rare flowers and exotics, and apartments containing well-arranged libraries 
and works of art. Americans do not yet treat their mineral baths upon this scale 
of magnificence but they may be said to entertain almost an equal regard for the 
springs. 



94 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



SARATOGA. 

As a fashionable resort, Saratoga takes the lead of all others on this side of the 
Atlantic. During " the season " its'mammoth hotels and numerous boarding-houses, 
entertain an aggregation of humanity amounting to tens of thousands. The attraction 
which draws together this vast stream is chiefly the gayety of the place and its reputa- 
tion among the votaries of fashion as the " swell " resort. The natural attractions are 
the group of mineral springs, the magnificent elms which shade the streets of the town, 
and the beautiful lake about four miles distant. There ii also a race-course, among 
the finest in the country, and the summer races at Saratoga are noted turf events of 
the season. There is, withal, no more brilliant scene to be found in America than 
that presented at Saratoga in August, when the town is thronged with visitors, and 
thousands of private and public carriages join in the parade of wealth and style on 




CONGRESS HALL. 



Broadway and on the Boulevard. Broadway, the main street, extends for several 
miles, with the principal hotels near its centre, and a succession of costly villas be- 
yond. The drives and promenades in the vicinity are delightful. The lake is nine 
miles long by three in width, and is a source of much pleasant amusement. It is 
reached by the Boulevard, which passes near the race-course and trout-ponds. In the 
near vicinity is a sequestered pond among the hills called " Lake Lovely." In the 
society at Saratoga it may appear that the gay and frivolous predominate, but it must 
be remembered that froth and foam come to the surface, while the still water rests 
quietly in its conscious power. The butterflies may sport in the sunshine, — we all 
love to see them, bright, golden-winged beauties as they are, glorifying the common- 
place with their presence. 

Saratoga is situated thirty-eight miles north of Albany, 182 miles from New York, 
and 238 miles from Boston. It is reached from New York via boats up the Hudson^ 
to Albany and thence by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Railroad; or by the West 



MIXERAL SPRINGS RESORTS. 95 

Shore Railroad to Albany, the latter comprising a picturesque all-rail route. From 
Boston take the New York and New England Railroad to New York, or the Boston 
and Albany to the latter place. The springs are said to have been visited by invalids 
as early as 1773, but the principal spring was not discovered until 1792. It is said that 
the medicinal properties of the High Rock Spring were known to the Iroquois Indians 
in 1535, and that Sir William Johnson was carried thither on a litter by the Mohawks 
in 1767, and he is believed to have been the first white man to visit the spring. The 
springs rise in a stratum of Potsdam sandstone, near a great break or fissure in the 
strata underlying the Saratoga valley, and reach the surface through a bed of blue 
clay. The waters are found very beneficial in affections of the liver, in some cases of 
chronic dyspepsia, and chronic diseases of the bowels. Besides other qualities, they 
appear to possess the virtues of a tonic united with those of a gentle cathartic. Most 
of the springs are now owned by stock companies, one of which has a stock capital of 
$1,000,000. Great quantities of the water are bottled and exported, and there is 
scarcely a town of any size in America in which they are not regularly sold. The pro- 
cess of boring artesian wells has been successfully introduced, and some of the most 
valuable of the new sources of water supply have recently been discovered in this 
way. The present hotel system of Saratoga is unrivaled elsewhere in the world. 
Among the leading hotels are Congress Hall and the United States Hotel. There has 
been a reduction of prices for the current season at some of the hotels, including the 
first named. It is an erroneous impression that Saratoga is necessarily an extrava- 
gantly-expensive place. There is every variety of accommodation, from the elegant 
high-priced hotels to modest boarding-houses, and those who desire to go there may 
easily suit the cost of a sojourn to their tastes and circumstances. 

HOT SPRINGS, ARKANSAS. 

In a narrow valley, a mile and a half long, running north and south between the 
Ozark Mountains, in Garland County, Arkansas, lies the town of Hot Springs. It has 
an elevation of 1500 feet above the sea, and the surrounding region is wild and pict- 
uresque, while the town and immediate neighborhood are lovely with verdure during 
the greater part of the year. The Hot Springs Creek flows past it, and the Washita 
River is six miles distant. There are 66 springs, which issue from the western slope 
of the Hot Springs Mountain, and on the east side of the valley. 350 gallons a minute, 
or 500,000 gallons per day, at a temperature varying from 93" to 160° F., pour out 
into the creek, whose waters are sufficiently warm for bathing in mid-winter even. 
The springs are clear, so pure as to be transparent, are almost tasteless, and do not de- 
posit any sediment. The water can be taken internally for their aperient and tonic 
effect, being highly recommended in blood diseases. The baths are beneficial in dis- 
eases of the skin, rheumatic complaints, and mercurial diseases, and are of three 
kinds; vapor baths at 112''; the douche, a spirit bath, at 120": and the saving bath, at 
116'^. The town and valley present a curious appearance to the incoming visitor, the 
rising steam from the springs giving the whole place the air of a great drying factory. 
The sun shines with intense ardor, but there is generally a draft through the valley 
which prevents the heat from becoming oppressive. The Hot Springs have of late 
been popular with many statesmen and other prominent men worn out with the ex- 
acting cares of a busy life. Consumptives, hozi^ever, and persons troubled with pulmonary 
or throat diseases should by all means avoid this section. The Hot Springs are reached b}'^ 



g6 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

the St. Louis, Iron Mountain and Southern Railroad, being 45 miles southwest of 
Little Rock. There will be but little trouble in securing quarters, as the entire town 
of 5,000 inhabitants is in the business. 

WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

The Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs are, next to Saratoga, the best known and 
most popular of all the mineral springs resorts in this country. For many years they 
have been the resort par excellence of the South, and much sought by a select class 
from all sections. They are situated on Howard's Creek, in Greenbrier County, di- 
rectly on the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, at the edge of the Great 
Western Valley and near the base of the Alleghany range of mountains, which rise at 
all points in picturesque beauty. Kate's Mountain, which recalls some heroic exploits 
of an Indian maiden of long ago, is one fine point of the scene southward ; while the 
Greenbrier Hills lie two miles away, toward the west, and the lofty Alleghanies 
tower up majestically on the north and east. Within the beautiful valley overlooked 
by these mountain summits is the magnificent hotel. In front the lawn spreads out, 
occupying probably fifty acres, and intersected by numerous winding walks. Encom- 
passing the lawn on either side are long lines of shining white cottages, embow- 
ered beneath the shade of ancient oaks, while at the distant extremity, the famous 
spring bubbles beneath a pavilion. Taking one of the by-paths to the right, "Lover's 
Leap " is soon reached, and here, under a dense shade of forest trees, obscurely wind- 
ing paths lead in every direction amid a thick growth of laurel, while precipitous de- 
clivities sink away, from which extended views of the deep valley below may be had, 
with the mountain ranges in the distance. Over all these natural beauties the " sea- 
son " throws its spell of animation and revelry, for the White Sulphur is a place of 
much gayety, and pleasure-seeking reigns supreme. 

These springs, according to a late medical writer, very much resemble the cele- 
brated cold sulphur waters of Neuendorf in Electoral Hesse. They are beneficial in 
a wide range of diseases. It is not known precisely at what period the spring was 
discovered. Though the Indians undoubtedly knew its virtues, there is no record of 
its being used by the whites until 1778. Log-cabins were first erected on the spot in 
i784-'86, and the place began to assume something of its present aspect about 1820. 
Since then it has been yearly improved, until it is capable of pleasantly housing some 
2,500 guests. The spring bubbles up from the earth in the lowest part of the valley, and 
is covered by a pavilion, formed of twelve Ionic columns, supporting a dome crowned 
by a statue of Hygeia. The spring is at an elevation of 2,000 feet above tide-water. 
Its temperature is 62'' Fahr., and is uniform through all seasons. Its average yield is 
about 30 gallons per minute, and the supply is neither diminished in dry weather nor 
increased by the longest rains. The principal ingredients of the water are 
nitrogen gas, oxygen gas, carbonic acid, hydro-sulphuric acid, sulphate of lime and 
magnesia, and carbonate of lime. Its effect is alternative and stimulant, and it is 
beneficial in cases of dyspepsia, liver-disease, nervous diseases, cutaneous diseases, 
rheumatism and gout. To reach the White Sulphur from Washington, take the 
through cars of the Chesapeake and Ohio route from the Baltimore and Potomac 
station. From cities east and north take the nearest route to Washington or steamers 
to Newport News or Old Point Comfort. The distance from Old Point Comfort, 311 
miles 



MINERAL SPRINGS RESORTS. 



97 



BEDFORD SPRINGS, PA. 

These springs, situated one mile from the town of Bedford, enjoy a high reputation 
for the health-restoring qualities of their waters and the air of the locality. The 
waters are recommended for a wide range of diseases, including those of the liver, the 
kidneys, and the skin, and for some of these ailments are pronounced absolute specif- 
ics. A distinguished physician, writing to the "Medical Examiner," says : "I have, 




BEDFORD SPRINGS. 



98 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

myself, twice gone to Bedford so prostrated as scarcely to endure the fatigue of the 
journey, and wholly disqualified for all exertion, and have, in both instances, returned 
at the end of a fortnight or three weeks restored to my wonted power of labor, and 
have witnessed similar results in the cases of friends and patients." The springs were 
discovered in 1804, and the following year were frequented by persons afiflicted with 
diseases, who encamped in the valley to be near the newly-discovered fountain of 
health. Not long afterwards accommodations were provided for visitors, and for 
threescore years they have regularly drawn a large number of health and pleasure 
ueekers. The natural beauty of the valley where the springs burst forth is great, and 
it seems to have been formed by nature as a retreat for wearied and suffering human- 
ity. High hills surround it, ascended by terraced walks, and from their summits 
pleasing vistas open. From the elevated position of these springs, among the 
ranges of the Alleghany Mountains, and the dense forest-growth surrounding 
them, the atmosphere is always deliciously cool. Bedford is an old town, and 
has an interesting history. It was the site of an important fort in colonial times, 
and some of the most illustrious names in American annals are associated with 
events occurring here towards the close of the eighteenth and in the early years of 
the nineteenth centuries. The adjacent country is picturesque — fertile valleys and 
rugged mountains holding rich deposits of iron-ore abounding in all directions. 

WAUKESHA, WISCONSIN. 

The village of Waukesha is prettily situated on one of the most beautiful and pict- 
uresque portions of the attractive State of Wisconsin. Its name has become almost 
a household word throughout the country, because of the Mineral Springs located 
there. These springs are among the most celebrated in the land, and their waters are 
shipped all over the world. But had they never existed, Waukesha might have 
become, naturally, a great summer resort. Its location and beauty, the delightful 
climate, especially in the later months of summer and fall, its proximity to the lovely 
lakes, Peewaukee and Oconomonoc, would in any event have made the place 
one of unusual attractiveness. About the largest springs, parks have been 
laid out, while the greater number of the private residences and many of the 
streets are beautifully adorned with shade trees, often meeting and arching overhead, 
and forming by their branches a protection from sun or shower. The trim lawns and 
the many-hued and fragrant flowers in the gardens add to the charm of the scene, and 
altogether in many respects Waukesha presents the appearance of a clean, bright, 
tidy and flourishing New England village. It has a population of about 5000. Since 
the discovery of the medicinal properties of the Mineral Springs the place has rapidly 
grown in favor as a watering place, and it is now the most popular resort west of the 
Alleghanies. There are ten springs whose waters are used, of which the Bethesda, 
Silurian, and Fountain are the best known. In cases of Bright's disease, diabetes, 
dyspepsia, and all liver and kidney affections, dropsy, gravel, etc., the waters are 
highly recommended. The hotel accommodations are ample, and there are numerous 
boarding-houses of various grades and capacities. 

RICHFIELD SPRINGS, N. Y. 

These Springs, long and favorably known, have attracted about them a resort for 
summer recreation and recuperation unsurpassed by any other in the country. They 



MINERAL SPRINGS RESORTS. 



99 



are located in Otsego County, in the vicinity of Cooperstown, and but seven miles 
distant from Otsego Lake. The village of Richfield Springs is situated upon a narrow 
plain, near the head of Schuyler Lake, which is five miles in length and a mile and 
and a quarter at its greatest breadth. The little lake is surrounded with high hills 
on every side, except the northward, and being but a mile from the springs, forms the 
principal attraction for visitors. According to tradition, the waters of these springs 

were sought for their medicinal vir- 
tues by the Indians long before the 
advent of the white man. A healing 
prophet of the Iroquois dwelt on an 
island in the midst of the lake, and 
the suffering came to him to be cured 
by the waters he secured at night and 
conveyed secretly to his retreat; but 
the Great Spirit became angered at 
his pride, and sank him and his island 
beneath the deep waters. The hotel 
accommodations at Richfield Springs 
are extensive and excellent. There 
are several large hotels, of which the 
Spring House is among the best. 
The hotel has all the appointments 
and surroundings that are certain to 
gratify the taste and insure the com- 
spRiNG HOUSE. fort of its guests. It is embowered 

in foliage, and Spring House Park, 
which almost environs it, is beautifully 
set with shrubs and forest trees and 
ornamented with rustic seats and ar- 
bors. Suitable portions of the park are 
dedicated to archery, croquet, lawn- 
tennis, and other out - door amuse- 
ments. The house will accommodate 
600 guests and all its appointments 
are of the most modern and elegant 
order. The marble bath-houses are 
among the luxuries connected with 
this hotel. Richfield Springs may be 
reached from New York via the West 
Shore or Hudson River Railroad to \*, 
Utica and thence via the Delaware. 
Lackawanna & Western. Through 
cars are run from New York. From 
Philadelphia, Baltimore and Wash- 
ington take any convenient route to white sulphur sprim. and siring house park. 
Utica. From Boston the direct route is via Boston & Albany Railroad to the latter 
point, whence drawing-room cars run through to the springs. 





lOO OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

POLAND SPRING, ME. 

This famous spring is located in the town of Poland, about twenty-five miles 
north of the city of Portland, at an elevation of 800 feet above sea level. The water 
issues from the spring at the rate of eight hundred gallons per minute, and from its 
uniform temperature at all seasons of the year, taken in connection with the geology 
of its surroundings, it is estimated to come from a great depth and through several 
formations or strata, from which it derives its freedom from organic matter. The 
character of the water is strongly alkaline. Its medicinal qualities are well established, 
and for correcting acidity of the stomach and in aiding the functions of digestion, 
respiration, etc., it is especially recommended by the highest medical authority, and 
by practical tests in many thousands of cases. Two large hotels are located near the 




POLAND SPRING AND HOTEL. 

spring, and all facilities are provided not only for a great sanitarium, but a most attract- 
ive summer resort. The Mansion House, the oldest of the hotels, has been enlarged 
and refitted. The Poland Spring House is one of the finest summer hotels in New 
England. It is provided with open grates, passenger-elevator, and with all modern 
appliances and conveniences. The spring- water is forced into every story of the hotel 
by a steam pump, and guests have use of the hot and cold baths on every floor. From 
the extensive veranda facing west, southwest and northwest, can be seen three beautiful 
lakes at a mile's distance, all admirable for boating and fishing. Near the Hotel, on 
the south side, is a large Pine and Oak Grove, while in a separate building are an 
extensive bowling alley and billiard-hall. Poland Spring may be reached from New 
York via Fall River or Norwich Line to Boston, arriving at the hotels next day, or by 
Norwich Line and Worcester & Nashua Railroad, avoiding the transfer in Boston. From 
Washington and Philadelphia the Pennsylvania through cars to Boston is best route. 



Qabes and I \ 



ivers. 




How beautiful the water is ! 

To me 'tis wond'rous fair — 
No spot can ever lonely be 

If water sparkle there : 
It hath a thousand tongues of mirth, 

Of grandeur or delight, 
And every heart is gladder made 

When water greets the sight." 

O nearly all mankind water hath its charms. The very 
mention of a beautiful lake, with its settings of moun- 
tain steeps, woods and rocks, or a deep running, 
winding river, with its banks of verdure and flowers 
and shady nooks, is a suggestion of beautiful thoughts 
and pleasurable emotions. Moonlight on the water de- 
scribes the very essence of romance. To the heat- 
oppressed inhabitants of the parched and dusty city, in July and August, the 
thought of being embowered in some cool retreat by the side of a lovely and 
picturesque lake or river is a picture of perfect comfort and earthly bliss. Of 
these retreats and the beauteous waters which make them attractive, our own 
land has a bountiful supply. First of all is the great chain of lakes on our northern 
boundary, which clasp hands and extend from Minnesota to the shores of the 
Atlantic. These five sister lakes — Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, and Ontario 
— which pour their waters through the St. Lawrence to the ocean, are the most 
extensive inland seas in the world, and each has its distinguishing characteristics of 
scenery and suggestion. They all abound in features of interest to the tourist, and 
many delightful summer resorts are located on their borders. Lake Superior, the 
largest and most mysterious of the chain, whose waters are daily churned into a foam 
by the paddle-wheel's of steamboats, is only half explored in its northern shores, and 
strange and fairy-like tales are daily told by fur-traders and hunters of gold and sil- 
ver, rubies and amethysts, copper and tin, to be found in the trackless regions washed 
by its waters. The celebrated Pictured Rocks, stretching from Munesing Harbor 
eastward along the southern coast, are among the wonders of the New World. Lake 
Michigan is perhaps the most beautiful of the series. Nothing is more soothing than 
the soft air wafted over its cool, sea-green waters; nothing more delightful than a 
sight of its beautiful islands, shifting fogs, and unsurpassed Straits of Mackinaw. 
The island of Mackinaw, a spot sacred to the Indians of the lakes, is scarcely lacking 
in any of the beauty or interest to be found in the Yosemite or Yellowstone national 
pleasure-grounds. Perhaps the most romantic of the chain is the deep blue Huron, 
with its wild shores and far-stretching woodland solitudes. Sault Ste. Marie, connect- 
ing it with Superior, is but little inferior in beauty to Mackinaw. No place in our 
country is so fraught with incidents relating to our national colonial life as Lake Erie. 
The spirit of Pontiac haunts the mouth of the Detroit River. On the shores of the 
lake every tree in the woods, as the winds sigh through its branches, whispers the 
name of Tecumseh, and his farewell to his British allies, with his declaration to lay 



I o 2 OUR A M ERICA N RE SOR TS. 

his bones on the battle-field without retreating. The renowned resort of Put-in-Bay 
reminds the world of the immortal Perry and his famous dispatch, "We have met 
the enemy and they are ours;" and call to mind the dying words of Captain Law- 
rence, " Don't give up the ship," which Perry inscribed upon a flag, flung to the 
breeze from the mast-head of his vessel. Charming and sublime Ontario, though in 
a degree dulled by the sublimity of Niagara Falls and the picturesque loveliness 
of the Thousand Islands, is surrounded by natural scenery of surpassing beauty, and 
forms a fitting climax to this sublime and beautiful series of great inland seas. 

LAKE GENEVA, WISCONSIN. 

The Northwest has, within the past ten years, developed many beautiful spots 
wherein the warm months of summer can be pleasantly passed, and where health and 
strength may be restored to the invalid. The States of Minnesota and Wisconsin 
have led the van in the number of these places offering attractions of scenery, climate, 
recreation and amusement. Lake Geneva lies forty-four miles southwest of Milwau- 
kee, and sixty-two miles northwest of Chicago, as a bird flies, and is reached by rail 
only via the Chicago & Northwestern railway. 

The lake is nine miles long by about two wide. Its depth is very great, and in 
places no bottom has ever been found. It has no inlet, but is supplied entirely by 
pure spring water gushing from the hillsides along its picturesque shores. No slough 
or malarial pools are found about the lake, and a weed has never been seen in the 
lake, and no insects and flies, so common in weedy and marshy lakes, are here found. 
Its waters are so clear and transparent that the bottom, as well as fish and other ob- 
jects, can easily be seen at a depth of thirty-five feet. Nothing but charming pebble 
and boulder shore^line is to be seen, and in places these boulders line the gracefully 
curving shore for miles in length, lying as neatly as if a master mason had fitted 
them in the line of beauty. The scenery is nowhere wild; it is such as painters love 
to delineate and lovers of art delight to view. The ever-changing hue of the waters 
from deep blue to ocean green, is, in itself, an enjoyable study, even to old acquaint- 
ances. Over the lake itself, in the last fallen hours of the day, hangs a curious pur- 
ple-gray, making the freshly-painted boats and wooded banks seem like the pictures 
in a dream. 

Lake Geneva is different from other western resorts in that it is distinctly a family 
watering-place. Its visitors come in July and stay until October. The entire twenty- 
five miles of its beautiful shore is occupied by the residences of the wealthy citizens 
of Chicago and St. Louis, for the most part. The majority of the houses are expen- 
sive and elegant, and have been built at an expenditure of from twenty-five thousand 
to a quarter of a million dollars. The amount of money invested in these summer 
homes will foot up among the millions, and they give a character and prestige to 
Lake Geneva possessed by no other Western resort. The lake has been artificially 
stocked with all kinds of game fish, and the fishing in the proper season is excellent 
and free to all. It is particularly noted as being the home of the " cisco," a species of 
white fish found no where else in the world. In the full of the moon in June, these 
fish come to the surface, and for a few days thousands of them are caught with a 
hook. They then disappear, and none have ever been seen during the balance of the 
year. During the " run " of the fish the air is filled with a peculiar fly, which disap- 
pears with the ciscoes, not to be again seen till the next year. There are five public 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 103 

Steamers on the lake, which can carry from fifty to six hundred passengers. Besides 
these many of the summer residents own steam yachts, which have the reputation of 
being the finest of their size in the country. 

LAKE GEORGE, NEW YORK. 

This unrivaled gem of American lakes is found at the southwestern margin of 
the Adirondack Wilderness, thirty-one miles north of Saratoga, and two hundred and 
eleven miles from New York. It is thirty-four miles long, running north and south, 
and varies from two to four miles in width. The lake is literally embowered in beau- 
tifully-wooded hills, which, in many instances, rise abruptly from its margin and 




FORT \VM. HENRY HOTEL. 

attain an altitude of more than two thousand feet. Its pellucid waters come entirely 
from the mountain brooks, and springs coming up from the bottom of the lake. 
Lake George is studded with many small islands — one for each day in the year, with 
one accommodating little fellow, which is understood to be held in reserve for the 
29th of February. Lake George is made interesting by history and legend as well as 
by the great beauty of its scenery, for which it is renowned throughout the world. 
The battle of Lake George is a prominent event in our colonial history ; and the 
inhabitants, Hawkeye, Chin-gach-cook, Uncas, Alice, and Cora Munro, the creations 
of the genius of our great novelist. Cooper, will never be dispossessed of it, but will 



I04 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

ever remain associated with it in the minds of all lovers of American literature. 
There can be no more charming excursion than a passage up and down this American 
Como affords. The wild, picturesque shores, the pretty little bays, the fascinating 
islands, the soft glamour of the water, and the towering hills make an enchanting pano- 
ramo. Caldwell, the principal resort, is situated at the head of the lake, and the vil- 
lage of Baldwin, at the foot, where it empties into Lake Champlain. Across the 
point of the Lake from Caldwell is Crosbyside, quite a popular resort. Just east of 
Caldwell, and commanding the most beautiful view of the lake and its surroundings, 
is the far-famed Fort William Henry Hotel, one of the finest summer hotels in the 
country. Numerous other resorts are located along the shores of the lake, on the 
waters of which a regular line of steamboats is run, making three trips daily between 
Caldwell and Baldwin, touching at all the intermediate landings. Caldwell is reached 
from New York via the West Shore Railroad to Albany, and thence by the 
Delaware and Hudson Canal Railroad. From Philadelphia, Baltimore and Wash- 
ington the route is via New York. 

OTSEGO LAKE, NEW YORK. 

This beautiful lake, situated in Otsego County, New York, is about nine miles 
long and one to one and one-half miles wide. J. Fenimore Cooper, the novel- 
ist, in his "Deer-slayer," thus describes the lake and surrounding hills : "On a level 
with the point lay abroad sheet of water, so placid and limpid that it resembled a bed 
of the pure mountain atmosphere compressed into a setting of hills and woods. At 
its northern end it was bounded by an isolated mountain ; lower land falling off east 
and west, gracefully relieving the sweep of the outline ; still the character of the 
country was mountainous ; high hills or low mountains rising abruptly from the water 
on quite nine-tenths of its circuit. ' But the most striking peculiarities of the scene 
were its solemn solitude and sweet repose. On all sides, wherever the eye turned, 
nothing met it but the mirror-like surface of the lake, and the dense setting of woods. 
So rich and fleecy were the outlines of the forest that the whole visible earth, from the 
rounded mountain-top to the water's edge, presented one unwavering hue of 
unbroken verdure." A recent writer says: "The same points still exist which 
Leather Stockings saw. There is the same beauty of verdure along the hills, and 
the sun still glints as brightly as then the ripples of the clear water." The 
scenery along the shores is extremely picturesque, and in the transparent waters there 
is found an abundance of fish. The whole region is full of interest because of the 
creations of Cooper's genius, and his romances have a new zest and beauty when read 
amid the scenes which inspired them. Cooperstown, situated on the south end of the 
lake, is the principal resort in this section of the State. It is beautifully situated high 
up in the mountains in the midst of delightful scenery, and has a clear, bracing 
atmosphere. The old Cooper mansion where J. Fenimore Cooper lived was burned 
in 1854. The site is always visited by tourists, however, as is also the tomb of Cooper, 
Cooper's Monument, Leather-Stocking Cave, Leather-Stocking Falls, and a hundred 
other points of interest in the vicinity. Two small steamers ply on the lake, touching 
at all points of interest along the shores, affording opportunities for delightful excur- 
sions. It is claimed that hay-fever is unknown here, and that victims of the disease 
always find relief. There are excellent hotel and boarding-house accommodations. 
Cooperstown is reached via the Albany and Susquehanna and the Cooperstown and 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 105 

Susquehanna Valley Railroad. Distance from Albany, ninety-one miles. From New 
York take the West Shore Railroad to Albany. From Philadelphia, Baltimore and 
Washington the nearest route is via New York. 

LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG, VT. 

Away in northern New England, nestling among the mountains, partly in Ver- 
mont and partly in Canada, is lovely Lake Memphremagog, declared by many 
enthusiastic tourists to be equal in beauty to Lake George. It is thirty miles long and 
about two miles wide, and extends in a curve, following the mountain range, from 
Coventry, Vt., to Magog, Canada. Its clear, pure waters are the home of many large, 
speckled trout, which invite the disciple of Isaac Walton to sojourn here and try his 
skill. Its shores are of varying character and outline — now high and rugged cliffs 
wall in the waters, again thickly-wooded hills guard the shores, and anon the sweet 
green meadows stretch out and touch the margin of the quiet lake with their pebbly, 
sandy margins. Numerous gems of islands bedeck the lake, many of which are culti- 
vated, and some (chief among which is Tea-Table Island,) are devoted entirely to 
pleasure. A trip up and down the lake affords the tourist a continual succession of 
beautiful scenes. On Lake Memphremagog, as at most lake resorts, the mountains 
only furnish a background for the charming lake scenery itself. Newport, Vt., at the 
head of the lake, is, perhaps, the principal resort in this region, though the tourist will 
see in a sail down the lake many pleasant summer hotels show their low white build- 
ings on the shore, and from time to time pretty villas rising among the embowering 
trees. Newport, three hundred and sixty-five miles from New York, and two hundred 
and thirty from Boston, may be reached via the Passumpsic and connecting railways. 

SENECA LAKE, N. Y. 

This lake, elsewhere mentioned in connection with Watkin's Glen, is one of the 
most remarkable inland bodies of water in the world. It is forty miles long, and 
varies from two to five miles in width. The water is of great purity and depth, in 
many places it being impossible to reach bottom by any ordinary method of sounding. 
The shores are grand and picturesque, consisting of a succession of hills and promon- 
tories, sweeping back from the lake in graceful lines, — their sides thickly wooded in 
some places, in others covered with well-tilled farms and vineyards. The region sur- 
rounding Seneca Lake was, in the remote past, doubtless the scene of wonderful and 
terrible natural convulsions, by which the Lake itself was reduced to half its former 
size, and the face of the entire north-eastern portion of the continent changed. These 
changes have left their impress in the glens, valleys, waterfalls, and other wonders 
which exist from Lake Erie to the Atlantic Ocean, and render the region interesting 
to the student of science as well as to the admirer of grandeur and beauty. At the head 
of the Lake, nestled in a narrow valley amid a profusion of shrubbery, is the village 
of Watkins. Steamboats, the largest on any of our inland waters, ply on the lake be- 
tween Watkins and Geneva, a beautiful town situated at the other extreme end of the 
lake. During the season of summer travel, six trips daily are made by these elegant 
steamers, and there is not a more delightful trip to be found anywhere than that to 
Niagara Falls and Watkins, taking in the lake ride eji route. Tourists from Washing- 
ton, Baltimore and Philadelphia make this the favorite route to Saratoga or the St. 
Lawrence River. 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 1 07 

LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE, NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

This beautiful sheet of water, lying in the central-eastern part of New Hampshire, 
has located on its shores some of the most attractive summer resorts in New England. 
The waters of the lake cover an area of over 70 square miles. It is quite irregular in 
outline, and very shallow, at no point attaining a depth of over two hundred feet. 
There are as many islands in the lake as there are days in the year. It is supposed 
that the bottom of the lake contains many large springs, as the streams which flow 
into it are altogether incompetent to create the great mass of water which it contains. 
"There may be," says Bartol, "lakes in Tyrol and Switzerland which, in particular 
effects, exceed the charms of any in the western world; but in that wedding of the 
land with the water, in which one is perpetually approaching and retreating from the 
other, nothing can be held to surpass, if to match, our Winnipiseogee." From the 
shore the range of vision is soon stopped by the islands, which can hardly be separated 
from each other in the dim distance, but from the summit of anyone of the numerous 
mountains which surround the lake the whole extent of its surface is spread out like 
a map and glitters in the sunlight like a sheet of crystal sprinkled with emeralds. 
Centre Harbor, at the head of the long North Bay of the lake, is one of the chief sum- 
mer resorts of this region. It is a small hamlet occupying an excellent position for 
studying and appreciating the beauties of the lake. The steamers " Lady of the Lake " 
and " Mt. Washington " touch at this point three or four times daily, and stages leave 
every afternoon for Moultonborough and West Ossipee. Wolfborough, the terminus 
of a branch of the Eastern Railroad, is the largest village on Lake Winnipiseogee. 
It is prettily situated at the foot of Wolfborough Bay, the most easterly projection of 
the lake, and commands a view of the entire bay and part of the open lake. It is a 
popular and greatly-frequented resort. The lake steamers touch at Wolfborough 
several times daily. Alton Bay, at the southern extremity of the lake, and the ter- 
minus of the Dover and Winnipiseogee branch of the Boston and Maine Railroad, 
has good fishing and offers good views of the White Mountains, but is less popular as 
a resort than most of the other villages on the shores of the lake. This place is also 
one of the landings of the " Lady of the Lake " and " Mt. Washington." Other pretty 
but less frequented resorts, as Weir's, Meredith, Moultonborough and others, afford 
fine views of lake and mountain scenery, and are splendid starting-points for numer- 
ous excursions by water, stage, carriage, or for foot tours. They are all reached by 
stage and the lake steamers, and some of them by rail. Edward Everett, in speaking 
of a trip by steamer from Weir's Landing to Centre Harbor, said that he had been 
something of a traveler in our own country, and in Europe had seen all that was most 
attractive, but his eye had yet to rest upon a lovelier scene than that which smiled 
around him as he sailed from Weir's to Centre Harbor. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE, MAINE. 

Among the northern hills, on the verge of the great Maine forest, stretching away 
into a wild and yet mostly uninhabited region, is Moosehead Lake, the largest sheet 
of water in the Pine-Tree State. It is ten hundred and twenty-three feet above the 
level of the sea, into which, by way of the Kennebec River, it pours its waters. Its 
shores are of irregular outline, and its waters deep, clear, and cold, furnishing ample 
occupation to the angler in their stores of trout and other fish. Vast numbers of game, 
including deer and moose, still frequent the densely wooded boundaries of the lake. 



\ 



I o 8 OUR A ME RICA N RESOR TS. 

Owing to these facts it has in recent years possessed a high reputation among tourists 
and sportsmen. Greenville, a small village on the southern extremity, is the only per- 
manent settlement on the borders of the lake, though several summer hotels are 
located in the vicinity. A small steamboat plies daily between Greenville and Mount 
Kineo, a prominent summer resort and favorite stopping-place on the east shore. The 
steamer also makes pleasure trips to the northern end of the lake, the passage to 
which affords a panoramic succession of fine scenery. The most striking and impos- 
ing scene along the shores is Mount Kineo, which rises precipitously from the water 
to a height of over six hundred feet. The summit of the mountain, which is easily 
reached from the hotel located at its base, reveals a magnificent picture of forest, 
mountain, and water. From no point can so fine a view be obtained of grand old 
Mount Katahdin as from the top of Mount Kineo. The chief drawback to a visit to 
this or any portion of the Maine woods is the black-fly, which from the middle of June 
to the first or middle of August are " masters of the situation," though at other por- 
tions of the season they are not troublesome. Greenville may be reached by stage 
from Skowhegan, Dexter Station, or Guilford, all of which places have railway con- 
nections. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, NEW YORK. 

Few places in America have so many historical and romantic associations as Lake 
Champlain. It was known to the Hurons, Algonquins, Iroquois, and other tribes of 
Indians, as the " Gate of the Country," and was the centre of as many striking events 
in their rude warfare as it afterward proved when the French, English, and Ameri- 
cans expended life and treasure in struggles for its possession. Crown Point, Fort 
Ticonderoga (which still remains a most picturesque old ruin), and many other places 
along its borders, are invested with especial interest connected with our colonial his- 
tory, the revolutionary war, and the war of 1812. Lake Champlain was the arena of 
one of the most brilliant naval feats in the last-named war — the defeat and capture of 
nearly the entire British fleet by Commodore McDonough. In this naval battle Com- 
modore McDonough had fourteen vessels, eighty-six guns, and four hundred and 
fifty men, while Captain Downie, who commanded the British fleet, had sixteen ves- 
sels, ninety-five guns, and one thousand men. The American-commander's success 
was due entirely to the skillful management of his vessels, and the bravery of his men. 
Since that event the waters of Lake Champlain have been unrufifled by strife. Fleets 
still sail over the lake, but the ships bear charmed and delighted tourists; armies still 
invade the surrounding territory, and scale the mountain heights on the shore, but 
they are armies of enraptured and gratified summer visitors and health-seekers. Lake 
Champlain lies between the Green Mountains on the east and the Adirondacks on the 
west, on the border-line between Vermont and New York. It is one hundred and 
twenty-six miles long, of varying width, and of very irregular shape, beginning in a 
series of long, crooked reaches, so narrow that it would be difficult or impossible to 
turn an ordinary steamboat in them, and widening above Ticonderoga, until at a point 
near Burlington, Vermont, it attains a width of ten miles. While the lake is sur- 
rounded with mountain ranges which stretch far away on either hand, there is an 
absence of steep cliffs directly on the water, a general characteristic of the shores of 
our northern lakes. Broad acres of beautiful meadow and farm lands are frequently 
seen sloping down to the shores, upon which smiling homes are located, and where 
peace and plenty have their abode. This beautiful little inland sea, with its sister, 



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no OUR A ME RICA N RESORTS. 

Lake George, will always remain among the most favored goals of summer pilgrim- 
age. A trip on Lake Champlain by the elegant and commodious passenger-steamers 
which ply between the different places and points of interest, -is indescribably delight- 
ful. Burlington, Vermont, situated on the eastern shore of the lake, has in recent 
years become quite a popular headquarters for tourists whose objective points are the 
Green Mountains, the Adirondacks, and places of interest along the lake. Tourists 
having " done " the White and Green Mountains, and proposing a trip through the 
Adirondacks, will have the pleasure of their " vacation " greatly heightened by tarry- 
ing a few days at Burlington and indulging in some of the many delightful excursions 
that may be taken from here. From Burlington the visitor may take the boat, cross 
to Port Kent, and go down to Plattsburgh, from whence, by the New York and 
Canada Railroad, Ausable Chasm may be visited. Plattsburgh is one of the favorite 
entrances to the Adirondack region. Probably one of the finest tours for its length in 
the world, which includes a sail over Lakes George and Champlain, may be taken from 
New York up the unrivalled Hudson to Albany, through Saratoga, over the lakes, 
through the whirling rapids, and pass the Thousand Islands of the far-famed St. Law- 
rence, on the broad bosom of Ontario, to Niagara Falls, and back to the metropolis 
through the varied beauties of the Empire State. 

CHAUTAUQUA LAKE, NEW YORK. 

Among the many beautiful inland lakes in the Empire State none is more widely 
known than Chautauqua — a body of purest water, seven hundred and eighty feet 
above Lake Erie and only eleven miles distant — with the thriving village of James- 
town at its southerly end and Maysville at its northerly. Its name, of Indian origin, 
was early given to the territory now famed as Chautauqua County. Years ago it 
became known that this lake, then supposed to be the highest navigable water on the 
continent, was surrounded by a beautiful region of country — with a summer climate 
pure, and healthful, and invigorating — and year by year many visitors, leaving the 
crowded cities, had gone into camp on the beautiful banks of this delightful lake, 
whiling away the restful days in capturing pickerel, a fish that grows to immense pro- 
portions in its crystal waters. In 1873 Rev. John 'H. Vincent, D.D., a man of world- 
wide fame, now known as the "Bishop of Chautauqua," camped on the shores of this 
beautiful lake — for a respite from labor and weary toil. He came for rest, but while 
here he carved out the " Chautauqua idea" of elevating humanity by furnishing them 
with healthful recreation under moral and Christianizing influences. In the summer 
of 1874 he initiated and called together the first annual "Assembly," which was held 
for two weeks in a beautiful grove near the foot of the lake at Fair Point, now known 
all over the world as Chautauqua.^ This first experiment meeting with such unex- 
pected success, an organization was effected and a charter with ample powers was 
obtained from the State of New York. Lands were purchased, and the foundations 
were laid for a growth that has ripened into a summer resort with a thousand elegant 
cottage homes — with a grand hotel costing one hundred thousand dollars, a city with 
elegant walks and parks, lit with electric lights, with all the comforts and conveniences 
of Cape May, Long Branch, and Saratoga. Year by year these summer gatherings 
have increased, and many families from the South own cottages to which these fami- 
lies come to spend the entire summer. The organization now owns one hundred and 
twenty-five acres of land, and has a plant of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 



LAKES AND RIVERS. m 

It is known as a " University in the Woods," has a Hall of Philosophy, a Children's 
Temple, an Alumni Hall, a Park of Palestine, Model of Jerusalem, a Tabernacle in the 
Wilderness, section of the Pyramid Cheops, an Oriental Museum, an immense audi- 
torium and an amphitheatre seating seventy-five hundred, etc., etc. It has a school 
of languages, its Chautauqua library and scientific circle, with circles and members all 
over the world. Its annual Sunday-school assembly collects together thousands of 
the brightest and foremost thinkers in this and other lands. It is safe to say that one 
hundred thousand persons visit this charming resort each summer. Fully a dozen 
steamboats ply upon the lake, with bands playing and banners flying, making summer 
a grand hey-day of pleasure. Chautauqua Point, Griffith's, Lake View, Mayville, and 
Jamestown have large hotels, which are filled to overflowing during the gay season. 
Chautauqua is reached from Washington, Baltimore and Philadelphia via the Penn- 
sylvania Railroad, connecting with the Buffalo & Western at Corry or via same to 
Buffalo, and thence over the Buffalo, New York & Pennsylvania. From New York 
take West Shore Railroad to Buffalo, or the Erie to Mayville. 

CAYUGA LAKE, N. Y. 

Among the most attractive of all the system of lakes in this famous region of New 
York State is Cayuga Lake. It is thirty-eight miles long and from one to three and 
a half miles wide, with a deep rugged verge at its southern extreme. Cayuga closely 
resembles its sister, Seneca, both as to size and general surroundings. There are the 
same hills lying away to the northward into the undulating table-lands bordering 
Lake Ontario, and the same low-lying points jutting from under the banks, inviting 
campers to come and take possession. Deep water surges against palisade-like but- 
tresses of rock upon the westward side, and washes the railroad track on the eastern 
shore. Lichens, mosses, and wild vines cling and clamber among the rocks, veiling 
their harsh outlines, and bursting into blossom everywhere. An elegant passenger- 
steamer owned by the Cayuga Lake Steamboat Company, makes frequent trips daily 
between Cayuga Station and Ithaca, and it is worth a long journey just to enjoy that 
ride. Ithaca is quite an important town and is an exceedingly handsome place. It is 
handsomely built, containing many elegant edifices, and commands an extended view 
of the scenery for which the lake is celebrated. Cornell University, a richly-endowed 
and widely-known institution of learning, open to students of both sexes, is located 
here. The town is the centre of many natural attractions, prominent among which is 
Ithaca Gorge, which is entered immediately from a principal street, and abounds in 
waterfalls and other grand natural wonders. It is said that there are one hundred and 
fifty falls and cascades within ten miles of the city. The steamers land at several 
points of interest on their daily trips, including Taughannock Falls and Sheldrake. 
The Cayuga Lake Hotel at the latter point is a famous resort. 

GREENWOOD LAKE, NEW YORK. 

In Orange County, New York, near the line of the Erie Railway, nearly hidden 
by rugged mountains, and surrounded by scenery, which for grandeur and picturesque 
loveliness is unsurpassed, is little Greenwood Lake. It is ten miles in length and 
scarcely one mile in width. The forests, with which the surrounding mountains are 
clothed, reach to the banks of the lake, the waters of which are cold and deep, and so 
beautifully clear that fish, with which it is plentifully supplied, maybe seen many feet 



112 OUR AMERICA N RESOR TS. 

below the surface. The pleasure here afforded tourists for boating is unsurpassed. 
A small steamer plies on the lake, making two trips from end to end daily. A num- 
ber of excellent summer hotels are located here. In the vicinity of Greenwood Lake, 
— which is often called ''Miniature Lake George," from its resemblance in some of its 
features to that queen of beautiful lakes — are a number of other little less lovely lakes 
and lakelets. Greenwood Lake may be reached by stages from Monroe, a station on 
the Erie Railway, fifty miles from New York, or from Greycourt, on the same rail- 
way, four miles further on. Another route is via Montclair and Greenwood Lake 
Railroad. The stage-ride from Monroe and Greycourt is interesting and delightful. 

DEVIL'S LAKE, WISCONSIN. 

Among the myriads of lakes glistening midst beautiful surroundings in the 
''Great Northwest" there is none that can be called more wonderful and romantic 
than Devil's Lake, located thirty-six miles northwest of Madison, not far from Bara- 
boo station, on the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad. This charming and mysterious 
sheet of water, without visible inlet or outlet, is supposed to occupy the crater of an 
extinct volcano. The gloomy bluffs which wall in the clear cold waters of the lake, 
and some of which rise over seven hundred feet from its margin, are in striking con- 
trast with the surrounding scenery. The barriers to the lake, beautiful in its strange 
captivity, are composed of a mass of loosened rocks, piled in grotesque confusion as if 
hurled aloft in the grim sport of some Titanic race, while the surrounding country is, 
for a good part, a sandy waste. To the Indian, ignorant of the processes of nature, 
Devil's Lake was a sacred body of water. Says a writer in a recent number of " Har- 
per's Magazine," visiting at this resort: " The ponderous blocks of Devil's Doorway 
could only have been placed upon their piers of smaller stones by some superhuman 
agency, and a cleft rock, perched on a dizzy height, and supported by a single prop 
of nicely-fitted blocks, was the unquestioned work of some Manitou. Add to this the 
lake without overflow or source, unprecedented in savage observation, and the effect 
was overwhelming; and the swarthy hunter, pursuing his game over smiling prairies, 
came with awe before these strange, deep waters, in the stern and desolate temple of 
some unknown deity. The wounded stag, dashing into its cooling waves, escaped 
pursuit; the very fish roamed in shoals unsought, and so strong was this superstitious 
dread that the dying warrior perished in agony rather than profane its waters with 
human lips." As this mysterious and picturesque lake is becoming more widely 
known it is visited by increasing numbers of tourists, and is invariably included 
in the round made by "doers" of "The Dells " and other resorts of Wisconsin and 
Minnesota. 

LAKE MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA. 

Within the borders of a vast forest of hardwood timber extending across the 
State of Minnesota, from the vicinity of Sauk Rapids, on the Upper Mississippi, to 
near the Iowa line are hundreds of beautiful lakes of crystal water, which are attract- 
ive to the huntsman and tourist. The most fashionable resorts among these lakes is 
Minnetonka. The name of the lake in the language of the Sioux Indians, who less 
than a quarter of a century since abandoned its shores, signifies " Big Water." Minne- 
tonka is made up of a series of bays, some twenty-five in number, which form a chain 
of what appears to be a succession of lakes, joined by estuaries, many of which are 
navigable by steamers. This series of irregular-shaped bays, covering an area of over 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 



113 



six hundred acres, give ample room for all kinds of rural enjoyment. The heavily- 
timbered banks, the numerous jutting points and crooked beaches, the stretches of 
marsh resembling vast lavvrns, and the numerous picturesque islands, combine to form 
pictures of varied beauty most pleasing to the eye. Says a recent visitor to Lake 
Minnetonka : "The Big Woods nearly incloses the lake in its midst, and cozey sum- 











VfV'fct 



-ft 



-'•^^^ 





LAKE MINXETOXKA. 
\Froin A Reconnaissance 0/ the Golden Northwest i\ 

mer resorts nestle beneath the branches 

of the great monarchs of the forest, on 

the banks of the beautiful bays, while 

villages and hotels have sprung up at 

the most convenient and available points. 

Steamers ply on its crystal waters to 

carry pleasure-seekers to their destina- ' 

tion, and fleets of sail and row-boats are to be found at all points of the lake, to 

supply the demand of fishing parties. Even the less frequented bays begin to show 

signs of civilization in newly-erected cabins, where some straggling sportsman settles 

down for a comfortable summer in the deep recesses of the wildwood, where he 

can be free from the annoyance of the fashionable crowds who frequent other parts 






114 



O UR A ME RICA N RE SOR TS. 



of the lake." The lake is located fifteen miles southwest of Minneapolis, and twenty- 
five miles from St. Paul, whence it can be reached by rail. Minnetonka Park is the 
principal resort. There are several large hotels at this and other points on the lake. 

SPIRIT LAKE, IOWA. 

Prominent among the resorts of the Northwest which are attracting so much at- 
tention in the recent years is Spirit Lake. It is a beautiful sheet of water situated in 
Dickinson County, 428 miles from Chicago, on the line of the Burlington, Cedar 







SPIRIT LAKE, IOWA. 
[Fro;/! A Reconnaissance of the Golden Northtuesi, Chicago, Milwaukee <5r= St. Paul Railway^ 

Rapids & Northern Railway, which, in connection with the Chicago & Rock Island, 
forms the famous "Albert Lea Route." The lake is circular, or nearly oblong, in shape, 
its greatest width being 4^ miles. Its entire banks, which are elevated and dry, are 
completely covered with a large growth of fine timber far back from the water's edge. 
Looking from the lake and away beyond these beautiful groves, the land gradually 
rises to an elevation which, seemingly, nature has created as a wall. Nestling close 
to and on the west side of Spirit Lake are four beautiful lakelets, namely: Little Spirit, 
Marble, Hottis, and Round or Sunken, all with a heavy growth of timber overhanging 
their banks. A new and elegant hotel, " The Orleans" has recently been erected near 
the lake, and was opened in June of last year. It attracts many visitors to this charm- 
ing ;spot. Immediately adjoining the hotel is a forty-acre park, through which, 
leading in all directions, are beautiful walks and drives. 



LAKES AND RIVERS. US 

DEVIL'S LAKE, DAKOTA. 

This magnificent sheet of water, called by the Indians " Mini-wakan," is located 
midway between the Red River of the North and the Missouri River, about fifty-five 
miles south of the international boundary line. It is included in an immense body of 
land which was until very recently supposed to be the property, by treaty, of the 
Turtle Mountain Chippewa Indians. The present Secretary of the Interior discovered 
that they had not a shadow of claim to the land, which is now being surveyed and 
opened to settlement. The water of the lake is dense and salt and green, closely resem- 
bling the ocean. The lake is nearly sixty miles in length and fifteen miles in width. It is 
surrounded by swells of hills varying in height from twenty to two hundred and fifty 
feet. The northern side is bordered by .hills that are well wooded and furrowed by 
ravines and coulees. The opposite side has less timber, but is also quite hilly. Fish 
of large size are found in the lake. There are many jutting promontories along the 
coast, and many handsome islands scattered over its surface, giving a most beautiful 
effect to the scene which a sail over its waters presents. The land around Devil's 
Lake is rolling prairie of the richest description. Analysis shows that the water of 
the lake contains sulphates of soda and magnesia (epsom andglauber salts), and chlor- 
ides of soda (common salt), and magnesia. These medicinal properties, taken in con- 
nection with the magnificent climate, is certain to attract tourists from all parts of the 
world, and Mini-wakan will become as famous as a summer resort as the country 
around it will be for productiveness. A branch of the St. Paul, Minneapolis and Man- 
itoba Railway will soon run direct to Devil's Lake. 

THE GREAT RIVERS. 

And see the rivers how they run 

Through woods and meads, in shade and sun, 

Sometimes swift, sometimes slow. 

Wave succeeding wave, they go 

A various journey to the deep, 

Like human life, to endless sleep! 

Prominent among the rivers of the world, for scenery and beauty, rank our own 
glorious Hudson, the wonderful St. Lawrence, and the picturesque Upper Missis- 
sippi. Even the world-famed Rhine is surpassed by the Hudson, which has a con- 
siderable advantage in size, though in the length of its navigable portion the latter is a 
small river when compared with either the Mississippi, the Missouri, the St. Lawrence, 
the Rhine, or the Danube. The fame of the Hudson — its location and legendry— is well 
known to all the world. The Highlands, incomparable for the combined beauty and 
majesty of their scenery, and the curious rocky wall, known as the Palisades, extending 
for miles, from Fort Lee to Piermont, give this noble American river a character wholly 
its own. Whether viewed from the window of a Wagner car, or from the deck of one 
of the " floating palaces " borne upon its waters — in the changing light of day, or the 
mysterious charm of a full moon, the experience of a first glance at its panoramic 
loveliness will always be remembered. Starting out from the New York wharf for a sail 
up the Hudson, the scene at the very outset is one of unequaled animation. The river 
here has broadened into a bay several miles wide, which is covered with craft of every 
kind — great steamers from over the sea, enormous sailing vessels, crowded ferry- 
boats, noisy tug-boats, yachts, barges, and fishing boats, all hurrying to and fro in the 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 117 

line of their various missions. Before the limits of the metropolis are passed the 
scene is changed, and the eye is charmed by the green wooded hills of Westchester on 
one hand, and the frowning precipices of the Palisades on the other. For twenty 
miles this mighty dyke of basaltic trap-rock shuts off the western sky, then suddenly 
disappears, and the view opens upon the rolling hills and blue outlines of the distant 
mountains. Then for a score of miles above, the river winds among the rugged 
mountains of the Highlands, its channel contracted to barely half a mile in width, 
until at the northern limit of these crags another portal opens and presents to view 
the beautiful landscape beyond. Tourists to the Catskills usually include the scenes 
of the Hudson, by making the trip up the river by boat. All along the route from 
New York to Poughkeepsie may be seen elegant summer residences and villas of 
wealthy New Yorkers, and at various points there are excellent hotels largely patron- 
ized during the warm months by residents of this city. 

The Upper Mississippi is one of the watercourses much enjoyed by tourists in the 
summer season. The scener}^ from Des Moines to St. Paul is varied and interesting, 
and there are many points of special attraction. A tour through this section gives an 
opportunity to see the Falls of Minnehaha, immortallized b)'' Longfellow, and the 
famous Dells of the Wisconsin River, second only to the Thousand Islands of the St. 
Lawrence. These Dells are among the later wonders of our western world. Just 
before reaching the locality a quick succession of dissolving views is caught through 
waving boughs of a winding river deep down between massive walls of rock, its 
silvery surface set with rocky islands capped with green, and the whole crowned by a 
glorious confusion of receding hills and slopes. The upper and lower Dells form 
together an irregular gorge some ten miles in length, walled in with sandstone rock 
from thirty to one hundred feet in height, upon which nature's resource of various 
design has well-nigh been exhausted. An explanation of this strange and fantastic 
formation has been given in rhyme: 

" How were all those wond'rous objects formed among the pond'rous rocks ? 
Some primeval grand upheave! shook the land with frequent shocks ; 
Caverns yawned and fissures widened ; tempests strident filled the air, 
Madly urging foaming surges through the gorges opened there ; 
With free motion, toward the ocean rolling in impetuous course, 
Rushing, tumbling, crushing, crumbling rocks with their resistless force ; 
And the roaring waters, pouring on in ever-broadening swells. 
Eddying, twirling, seething, whirling, formed the wild Wisconsin Dells." 

But of all American rivers the St. Lawrence possesses the greatest attractions for 
tourists. There is not another tour of equal distance in the world that presents such 
a combination of beauty, excitement, and interest as that across Lake Ontario into 
the St. Lawrence through the picturesque Thousand Islands and down the wild and 
boisterous rapids to the metropolis of Canada and the quaint, historic city of Que- 
bec. This trip is generally made by tourists from Niagara Falls, in one direction, or 
omitting the lake portion, from Kingston on the Grand Trunk Railway, or from 
Trenton Falls via Clayton, a terminus of the Utica & Black River Railway ; or still 
again from Cape Vincent, on the New York Central Railway. Almost immediately 
after setting out from the latter points the steamer enters that portion of the river 
known as the Thousand Islands. Here, according to the Treaty of Ghent, sixteen 
hundred and ninety-two islands of various sizes and shapes push their heads up 



1 1 8 OUR A M ERICA N RE SOR TS. 

through the waters, and through and among them the river winds its tortuous course. 
Such a scene as here presents is not to be found anywhere else in the known world. 
It is a wilderness of islands, some so small as to be barely visible, others acres in 
extent ; some presenting to the view nothing but bare masses of rock, while others 
are covered with a thick forest of foliage, green and fresh in summer and tinged with 
all the colors of the rainbow in autumn. Mighty river and inland sea, mountain and 
plain, island and continent. Nature in her sweet and placid aspect and in her dark 
and awful mood, all are blended here to form that singular combination of elements 
which the Iroquois Indians so appropriately named Man-a-to-ana — the Garden of the 
Great Father. A writer in Harper's Magazi?ie thus discourses of the scene : " Islands 
to the right of us, islands to the left of us, islands in front of us, lift up their heads, 
crowned here with jutting rocks, there with forest trees, and again flanked by grassy 
slopes extending to the water's edge, and fringed with trees whose drooping branches 
reach down their leafy tips to drink the clear green waters of the river. The view 
grows more charming as we proceed. Channels open between the islands in every 
direction, and as our little steamer drives swiftly along the main and broadest chan- 
nel, the shifting scenes go by us like a panorama. To our left still lies Wells's Island, 
nine miles long, shutting out all view beyond, while off to the right we catch through 
the rock-bound channels an occasional glimpse of the American mainland. A run 
of half an hour more brings us to Alexandria Bay. This is the central point of 
interest. For ten miles up and an equal distance down the river the islands lie 
thickest, the cottages are most numerous, and the fishing most alluring. The village 
which takes its name from the bay, is perched upon a rocky headland on the Ameri- 
can shore." Westminster Park and Poplar Bay are two noted points in this neigh- 
borhood, the latter taking its name from a group of five Poplar trees on the edge of 
Wells's Island. It looks out upon a great sheet of water, three miles wide and several 
miles long, studded with islands, whose craggy sides are gray with lichen, spangled 
with mossy cushions, and belted across with long seams, out of which grow ferns 
and wild flowers that none can ever hope to touch with human fingers. Alexandria 
Bay is the great resort of the St. Lawrence, and it contains such a variety of splendid 
attractions as to be growing in popularity every year. The Thousand Island House 
and the Crossmon House are leading hotels. Both these are superior to any others 
on the river, and are well filled every season with the best class of people, many of 
whom return one season after another. Malaria and hay-fever are unknown here. 
The most direct and picturesque route from New York and Philadelphia to Alexan- 
dria Bay, is via the West Shore Railway up the Hudson to Utica, and thence via the 
Utica & Black River Railroad to Clayton, where steamers are taken up the river. A 
new route opened this season is via the New York, Ontario & Western Railroad to 
Oswego, and thence by steamer on Lake Ontario. 

Many tourists rush through the Thousand Islands by daylight, in true American 
style, on a big steamer, drop the morning paper or latest novel just long enough to 
glance over the rail at a pretty vista of channel or a cozey island home, and imagine 
they have seen the Thousand Islands. Just so the swift Yankee spends fifteen mor- 
tal minutes by the watch in "doing" the Louvre, or St. Peter's, or the galleries at 
Munich. Whoever does that loses one of the most inspiring opportunities of a life- 
time. There is only one such archipelago in the world, and no man looking for 
the gems of nature's handiwork can afford to sail through the Thousand Islands 



LAKES AND RIVERS, 



119 



and not know what they are. To really know what the Thousand Islands are, 
one should stop among them for at least a week or two, put up at a good hotel, 
secure a skiff for the term of his stay, and then paddle in and out of these beauti- 
ful coves and bays, across and through these winding and rock-bound channels, 
and visit island, and promontory, and cliff. He must float slowly over this clear- 
est of all water on a calm day, and see the vast aquarium beneath his keel, where 
six, eight, twelve feet down through the green sparkling river, is such an under- 





THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE. 



water garden as the wildest fancy never dared to picture. One of the great 
attractions of the Thousand Islands is the fishing. It is the great fishing-ground 
of America. The great catch is pickerel, which may be taken even by inexper- 
ienced fishermen, and muskalonge, weighing twenty pounds or less — generally 
less — are caught in great numbers. The air of the Thousand Islands is heavily 
charged with ozone, the first effect of which is to induce a delicious drowsiness. 
The wholesome affect of this air upon consumptives, however, is due not only 
to the ozone, but also to the piny breezes blowing across the vast Canadian for- 



OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 



ests, and gathering new richness from the woods of the islands themselves. The 
island air is, moreover, remarkable for its dryness. The ladies may play croquet 
in slippers in the early morning without gathering any dampness from the grass; 
and neither piazzas nor hammocks threaten their occupants even at night with 
rheumatism or ague. Excellent bathing can be had at many points where sandy 
beaches are found. In the season there is good duck-shooting upon the river, the 
birds being mostly of the teal variety. Another water-fowl, passing here under the 
name of loon, but probably misnamed, frequents these waters in the fall of the year, and 
stories are told of the immense quantities the skillful sportman may bag, which need 




LITTLE LEHIGH — SUMMER RESIDENCE OF CHAS. H. CUMMIXGS, ESQ. 

to be taken, as the birds are, cum grano salis. Since the opening of the large hotel in 
1873, the influx of people to this region for the summer season has increased rapidly 
every year and it is estimated that fully 200,000 were there for a longer or shorter 
time during last season. About the same time there began to be a great demand 
for islands on which to build summer cottages. And the sale has continued until 
most of the best ones have been appropriated. These islands vary in size from 
one-fourth acre to twenty-five acres, and some of the cottages are the most 
elegant and delightful summer homes. Among those owning islands are Judge 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 



Spencer, New York; William G. Deshler, Columbus, Ohio; George M. Pull- 
man, Chicago; H. A. Packer, President Lehigh Valley R. R. ; H. H. Warner, 
Rochester; D. G. GrinuU, Brooklyn; C. H. Cummings, New York; E. R. Proctor, Cin- 
cinnati; Mrs. Charlotte Kipp, Buffalo, and about one hundred others. Each island 
has a name bestowed by its owner, some being very happy and suggestive, like " Fairy 
Land," "Nobby," " Little Charm," "Lookout," " Idlewild," etc. 

Leaving the Thousand Islands, the steamer passes almost immediately into the 
wonderful rapids, and the tourist enters upon the most exciting and exhilarating portion 
of this trip. The tour down the St. Lawrence is incomplete without a visit to the French 
Canadian cities of Ottawa, Montreal, and Quebec. The scenery in and around all these 
cities is peculiar and impressive. Montreal, the metropolis of British North America, 
from its many commanding features of interest, is the objective for the majority of 
tourists to this section. The city is situated on an island of the same name, lies at the 
base of Mt. Royal, from which the name was taken. The drive around the mountain 
is delightful. The summit is reached by a splendid carriage-road covering a distance 
of eight miles, thus rendering the ascent very easy, and from several places during the 
ride a bird's-eye view 
of the entire city and 
the majestic St. Law- 
rence may be had, 
with the Lachine 
Rapids in the dis- 
tance. This mountain, 
possessing many won- 
derful natural advan- 
tages, is being con- 
verted into a magnifi- 
cent park, which, 
when completed, will 
not be excelled in size 
and beauty. Quebec, 
founded in 1608, is 
one of the oldest cities 
in North America, and 
also one of the most 
interesting. The plan 
of the city is nearly a 
triangle, the Plains of 
Abraham forming the 
base and the rivers 
St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles the sides. The 
city is divided into two 
parts, known as the 
upper town and the 
lower town. The up- 
per town IS strongly running the rapids of the st. lawrexce river. 




12 2 OUR AMERICAN RESOR TS. 

ortifiad, and includes within its limits the citadel of Cape Diamond, which covers the 
entire summit of the promontory, and embraces an area of more than forty acres. St. 
John and St. Louis, suburbs, are also included in the upper town. The citadel occupies 
a commanding site, three hundred and forty-five feet above the river, and is the strongest 
fortress in America. Quebec is pre-eminently the stronghold of Canada, and is called 
the " key of the province." The citadel, from its great elevation, affords a fine view of 
the river and surrounding country. The line of fortifications inclosing the citadel and 
upper town is nearly three miles in length. 

Quebec retains many of the characteristics of its early French founders, and im- 
presses the visitor with the quaintness and venerable air of much that is to be seen, 
and is suggestive of a little bit of the Old World transplanted to the New. The age 
of the city shows itself in a marked degree, and the visitor voluntarily accords it a 
proper amount of respect as an honored relic of bygone days. It has played a most 
important part in the history of this country, and there is scarce a span's space in the 
city or its vicinage but what is memorable in history as the scene of some struggle or 
decisive engagement. The French language is the exclusive medium of intercourse 
among many of the inhabitants. The drives around Quebec are full of interest and 
afford delightful prospects. Eight miles below the city are the celebrated Falls of 
Montmorenci. As is well known, these falls are only fifty feet wide, but descend in 
a perpendicular sheet more than two hundred and fifty feet. The place is much 
frequented. 

A very pleasant rounding off of the St. Lawrence tour is made by including 
a trip to the remarkable Saguenay River, its largest tributary. Leaving Que- 
bec, a detour of two days affords the opportunity for viewing the grandest 
and most striking river scenery on this continent. At Tadousac, 120 miles 
below Quebec, the Saguenay empties into the St. Lawrence, and from the 
moment the channel is entered the beholder is impressed with the grandeur 
of the prospect before him. On either side perpendicular cliffs of granite and 
syenite in solemn majesty rise abruptly from the water's edge to a height of nearly 
2,000 feet. The quiet fiow of the river in its deep and rock-bound channel is in per- 
fect accord with the wondrous charm of the situation. The depth of this river is some- 
thing remarkable; at its mouth a line of 330 fathoms could not sound bottom; at St. 
John's Bay, 28 miles above Tadousac, the water is one mile and a half deep. Six 
miles beyond St. John's Bay is Eternity Bay. Two majestic promontories, like 
gigantic sentinels, guard its entrance; Cape Trinity, 1,500 feet high, on the left; Cape 
Eternity, 1,900 feet high, on the right. At this point the river is a mile and a quarter 
deep. The headwater of the Saguenay is the Lake St. John, 40 miles long and nearly 
as wide, and although eleven rivers flow into it, its only outlet is the Saguenay. The 
original name of the latter was Chicoutimi, an Indian word, signifying Deep Water. 
Sixty miles above Tadousac is Grand or Ha-ha Bay, nine miles long and six wide. 
It affords good anchorage for the largest vessels, the average depth being from 15 to 
35 fathoms. The attractions of this place are many and very inviting. Its name is 
said to come from the joy it afforded the first navigators of the river, who found here 
their first landing-place, and expressed their delight by a hearty Ha! ha! The 
Grand Trunk Railway and the Royal Mail and Richelieu Line of steamers com- 
prise the favorite lines of travel to and from all points in Canada and the St. Law- 
rence River. 




easnore. 



" Thou glorious seal More pleasing far 

When all thy waters are at rest, 
And noonday sun or midnight star 

Is shining on thy waveless breast. 
Yet is the very tempest dear, 

Whose mighty voice but tells of thee; 
For wild or calm, or far or near. 

I love thee still, thou glorious sea ! " 

FROM the pine woods to the Everglades the historic Atlantic washes the shores 
of our broad land, now "dashed high on a stern and rock-bound coast," and ed- 
dying around the northern islands; now flooding through the Narrows to bathe 
the feet of the metropolis, and ebbing back by Coney Island and Sandy Hook; anon 
sweeping with long fine swells into the Sounds of Albemarle and Pamlico, and storming 
by Cape Hatteras, then capping against the coral reefs of the Florida Keys, and meeting 
the warm waters of the Gulf; while across the continent, three thousand miles away, 
the great Pacific's blue waters sparkle through the vista of the Golden Gate, and 
chant the vespers for the quaint and ancient white-walled Missions amidst the 
vineyards of Southern California. Thus, with a " deep and dark blue ocean " rol- 
ling on either side, the American is most naturally a lover of the sea, and a frequent 
pilgrim to its shores. It is probably true that a majority of those who annually give 
themselves a season of relaxation seek it along the many curves of glistening sand, 
where the waves of ocean beat more gently. So general has this seaward tendency 
become that the " rapture on the lonely shore " is often intruded upon. 

Along the barren sands cities have sprung up; the trackless wastes are paved by 
corporations; the moonlight that sends a silver path across the sea pales on the land 
before the electric light that glitters in the gay pavilions and hotels. Where once the 
only music that trembled through the air were the deep chords from the booming 
billows, the sounds of merry songs and the notes of tinkling cymbals and stringed 
instruments now fill the air; and the fresh breeze, which once had far to wander to 
blow its good to humankind, now fans the fair brow of beauty driving on the sea-road 
or promenading on the ocean-walk, while the forgotten, untutored mermaids hang 
their heads for shame beneath the waves. No American resorts are so cosmopolitan. 
All countries, all tongues, all conditions are represented among those who flock thither 
for amusement, for health, for the love of excitement, for the love of the grand ocean. 
They ramble on the shore, they sit on the beach, they sail through the waters, they 
gather the shells, they sport in the surge. Though some may have to search for that 
solitude so dear on occasions, there is room for all, and one may always find some 
nook or corner where he may follow his own bent of worship. To the invalid and 
weary the salt breeze comes like a cool hand on the fevered brow, and bears the heal- 
ing of the seas; to the strong worker what a blissful rest to cast himself upon the sands 
and forget the dusty town behind in the contemplation of the vast waters that bear 
the white-winged messengers of commerce and beat about a thousand lands. In the 
words of Oliver Wendell Holmes: " Who does not love to shuffle off time and its con- 
cerns at intervals, — to forget who is President and who is Governor, what race he be- 



124 OUR A ME RICA N RESOR TS. 

longs to, what language he speaks, which golden-headed nail of the firmament his 
particular planetary system is hung upon, and listen to the great liquid metronome 
as it beats its solemn measure, steadily swinging when the solo or duet of human life 
began, and to swing just as steadily after the human chorus has died out and man 
is a fossil on its shore?" To Byron the sea was power, solemnity, eternity, — the 
" glass upon which the face of the Almighty is seen." To the poet Procter it was: 

" The sea! the sea! the open sea! 
^ The blue, the fresh, the ever free! 

Without a mark, without a bound 
It runneth the earth's wide region round; 
It plays with the clouds, it mocks the skies, 
Or like a cradled creature lies." 

But romance aside, the great desideratum of a vacation is to most of us recuper- 
ation in health and strength; and the question must be determined in each case indi- 
vidually, whether the sea or mountain air is most beneficial. The distinctive feature 
of the seashore is the opportunity it affords for salt-water or surf bathing. The great 
majority of persons are more or less benefited by sea-baths, when taken under proper 
conditions and with the observance of proper precautions. But it is generally ad- 
mitted among bathers of experience that the effect of these baths may be either stim- 
ulating or depressing — that they may do great good or much harm, according as all the 
conditions may be understood and observed. The sea is a powerful chemical agent. 
Many of the salts held in solution in its waters possess strong medicinal properties, 
which act directly through the pores of the skin. In all cases where there is a reason 
to question the expediency of a course of sea-baths, or to suspect a tendency to heart 
disease, medical advice should be taken and carefully followed. Few general rules 
can be laid down, but it may be set forth as one of them that a short time in the water 
is always best; and that the bather should hasten briskly to the dressing-room after 
leaving the water, and indulge a vigorous rubbing with coarse towels. 

ATLANTIC CITY, N. J. 

This "City of Homes" is located on the Atlantic coast, sixty miles southeast of 
Philadelphia. During the season tourists in great numbers from every quarter are 
drawn to it; but being very convenient of access to Philadelphia, the greater propor- 
tion of its visitors and summer residents are from that city. Atlantic City is really 
situated on an island formed by the Atlantic Ocean on the east, and a navigable strait 
— The Thoroughfare — on the west, Absecom Inlet on the north, and Old Inlet on the 
south. It contains a large number of private cottages of exceeding beauty, both in 
themselves and their surroundiugs. It is not only a city in name, but in fact, pos- 
sessing all the conveniences enjoyed by cities of a larger growth. The resident popu- 
lation is six thousand, and those who visit there in search of health or pleasure will 
find no lack of necessities, and all of the luxuries enjoyed at home. There are fine 
markets, good stores in great variety, street cars, stage lines, unexcelled livery, gas, 
first-class medical attendance, and stores, etc., etc. There are pleasant drives for 
many miles up and down the beach, which is smooth, sandy, and gently sloping. For 
two miles along the ocean front of the city the beach is skirted by a broad plank walk, 
which is the favorite resort for promenading during bathing hour and evening. The 
surrounding country is entirely destitute of attractiveness to the vision, consisting 



THE SEASHORE. 125 

as it does, for the most part, of wide-stretching salt marshes; but because of the fish 
that may be taken in its waters, and the game that may be bagged from among the 
reeds and rushes, it is a sort of Paradise to the persistent sportsman. The run from 
Philadelphia to Atlantic City by the West Jersey Railroad is made in ninety minutes. 

CAPE MAY, N. J. 

Cape May, to quote a well-known writer, " possesses one of the few really fine 
ocean beaches of the world, a splendid expanse of smooth white sand, firm yet soft to 
the tread, stretching for miles up and down the coast, over whose slight incline the 
waves break with a regularity and gentle force which makes life-lines entirely unnec- 
essary. The hotels and cottages are in close proximity to the beach, which circum- 
stance, taken in connection with the fact that there are no unsightly stretches of 
barren land or wastes of salt marshes to offend the eye, forms a prominent factor in 
the exceptional popularity of the place. The situation of the Cape gives it peculiar 
and decided advantages as a sanitarium. It is surrounded on the three sides by the 
Atlantic, whose purifying breezes fan it without stint, and afford almost entire immu- 
nity from that pest of sea-side resorts, the mosquito. It was this natural adaptation 
to the purposes of both health and pleasure that made Cape May a favorite resort 
long before the era of railroads. The patronage of the place has long been monopo- 
lized by a class which represents at home the highest grade of intelligence, social 
standing, and culture. Ten thousand annual summer visitors from Baltimore, Phil- 
adelphia, Washington, and Pittsburg, representing the best families of those cities, 
have left the impress of their character upon the town, encouraging that thrift and 
enterprise and good taste in its citizens which builds up beautiful avenues, preserves 
a cleanly, wholesome condition of its streets, and creates a strong, healthful public 
opinion in the direction of morality, culture, and refinement." 

A magnificent drive, fifty feet wide, extends along the whole sea front, flanked 
on the ocean side by abroad walk ten feet wide. These are constructed in the best 
manner, the drive being well graveled, and connecting, as it does, with the principal 
streets of the town, forms a continuous circuit of many miles, combining the unsur- 
passed ocean scene and the most attractive views of the city. The board-walk 
sweeps along in graceful curves for a distance of near two miles, and as smooth as a 
ball-room floor, commanding an unobstructed prospect of the bathing-grounds on 
the one side, and the carriage-way on the other. The principal avenues of the city 
are covered with shells from the sea, thus rendering them free from dust, and delight- 
ful for promenaders and others visiting the handsome shops, hotels, and private resi- 
dences extending along them. Cape May is reached from Philadelphia by a two 
hours' ride over the West Jersey Railroad. 

LONG BRANCH, N. J. 

Among the oldest as well as the most fashionable and popular resorts on the New 
Jersey coast is Long Branch. It has an unusually fine beach for bathing and prome- 
nading, and possesses in perfection the best attractions sought on the seashore. A 
new feature in recent years is the great iron pier extending from the bluff out some 
800 feet into the ocean, "The blufT" is a sandy elevation, rising abruptly from the 
beach to a height of twenty feet, forming a plateau upon which the hotels and resi- 
dences are located, overlooking the boundless expanse of ocean. It extends, in an 



126 OUR A ME RICA N RE SOR TS. 

almost unbroken line, five miles. The iron pier, with its top pn a level with this 
bluff, reaches far out beyond the breakers, and furnishes a long promenade, as well 
as a convenient fishing stand. There is a restaurant on it, also accommodations for an 
orchestra, while underneath are numerous bath-houses. 

The drives about Long Branch are a feature, and the famous " Beach Drive," ex- 
tending a distance of twenty miles or more, commands a fine view of the sea for al- 
most the entire distance. From some of the hotels may be seen showy equipages in 
passing and repassing lines, pleasantly breaking the vision of the bright green of the 
lawn and the deep blue of the ocean beyond. There are at Long Branch no salt 
marshes, sandy plains, nor mosquitoes. The soil from the bluff back is of the most 
fertile character, and the art of man working upon this, and aided by unlimited capi- 
tal, has done so much to beautify the place and add to the great natural attraction 
of the sea, that it can never be in any danger of losing its high rank and prestige. 
Owing to the fame of Long Branch as a resort of the fashionable classes, there exists 
in the minds of the majority of those who have never visited it an impression that it 
is unsuited to people of moderate means and quiet tastes. This is, however, a great 
misconception. The charges at the hotels range from three dollars to four dollars per 
day, and from twelve dollars per week upwards. The carriage fares are also very 
moderate, and need exclude none who do not own their own teams — and these con- 
stitute three-fourths — from the pleasures of the drive. There is less attempt at vain 
display, and less excitement than at many less noted and cheaper resorts. Fashion 
decrees no particular course of conduct, or style of dress, and there is enough demo- 
cratic leaven in the lump to make it proper for everyone to do as he pleases, provided 
the ordinary proprieties of life are observed. There are several ways of reaching 
Long Branch from New York, viz.: The Pennsylvania route, from Desbrosses and 
Cortlandt street, via Newark, Rahway, and Amboy; or by steamer, running four 
times daily in summer from Pier 14 to Sandy Hook, thence by rail; or the all-water- 
route by steamer from foot Twenty-second street; and the all-rail route, via Long 
Branch Division of the New Jersey Central Railroad. 

OCEAN GROVE AND ASBURY PARK, N. J. 

A little over ten years ago several ministers and laymen of the Methodist 
Church, having in view the establishment of a camp-meeting ground, purchased the 
tract of land upon which the beautiful little city of Ocean Grove is built, at a cost of 
six hundred dollars. The splendid beach, fine location, and beautiful sur- 
roundings were expected to make it popular as a camp-ground, but little did its pro- 
jectors at the outset dream nhat in less than a decade it would become a city of ele- 
gant, costly and substantial cottages, and one of the famous and prominent seaside 
resorts of the Atlantic coast. The advantages which the place offered for a summer 
home by the ocean were soon discovered, however, and the plans of the founders 
were enlarged, and the design of establishing here a summer retreat for Christian 
families was conceived. The plot of ground had been dedicated to religious pur- 
poses, and chartered under the name of the " Ocean Grove Camp Ground," and its 
improvement with a view to establishing a city was now systematically begun. The 
association is authorized to make its own laws, and they have framed these so as to 
secure, for all time, the purpose had in view when the work was commenced. No 
intoxicating drinks are permitted on the ground; boating, bathing, and driving are 



THE SEASHORE. 



127 



Strictly prohibited on Sunday; and all behavior unbecoming the repose of such a place 
is at once suppressed. These regulations, and the natural advantages of the location, 
make it a pleasant and quiet place, where families can remain free from intrusion and 
annoyance, and where the beneficial effects of sea-air and sea-bathing can be enjoyed 
without the expense and tax upon the system exacted by resorts at which fashion 
and folly too often rule. In August of every summer camp-meeting is held on the 
grounds reserved for the purpose, continuing two weeks. Ample provision is made 
for the immense number of people who visitthe grove during the camp-meeting season 
under tents, which may be rented at reasonable rates. Asbury Park adjoins Ocean 
Grove, being separated therefrom only by Wesley Lake, a narrow but beautiful sheet 
of water. Asbury Park is an offshoot, so to speak, of Ocean Grove, but it is less 
strict in its police regulations than the latter, and on that account is preferred as 
a residence by some persons. Like its parent city, it has a fine beach and splendid 
bathing facilities. Its street are regularly laid out and adorned with beautiful shade- 
trees. Both Ocean Grove and Asbury Park are provided with excellent hotels and numer- 
ous and good boarding-houses. These resorts are located about six miles south 
of Long Branch, on the New Jersey coast, and may be reached by the Pennsyl- 
vania and New Jersey Central railroads. 

LONG BEACH, L. L 

Though one of the later-born seaside resorts. Long Beach has suddenly attained 
great popularity because of the many points in which it excels most of its New Jer- 
sey and New Eng- 
land competitors. /' ^ 
The beach is simply f 
without a rival. It is ,. _ ^ ' 
as level as a concrete _ . "'■■ "'"' :• '•• ■ «/" Xv 
walk, and is delight- r'' *->;.. "^^i 

ful either to the feet '^. ^ "^-i- - "^- ./ ^"^ 

of pedestrians or to 
those who enjoy the 
drive of seven miles 
beside the breakers. 
It slopes so gently 
that one must walk 
the length of two 
city blocks outward 
in order to find a 
depth sufficient to 
cover a man of ordi- 
nary stature stand- 
ing up. There is no 
under-tow, and the 
currents never bring 

to the strand any of the city's refuse, as is the case in other localities, to such an extent 
as to seriously interfere with pleasure at the seaside. The hotel is one of the truest 
and most beautiful reproductions of the architecture peculiar to Queen Anne's time 




LONG BEACH HOTEL. 



128 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

— a roomy, comfortable, elegantly furnished and conveniently arranged hostelry 
with every modern appliance for the safety and luxurious enjoyment of its 
guests. The lessees of the cottage establish a delightful social circle which has ren- 
dered the place distinguished, from the standpoint of society; and those who join 
the largest circle at the hotel, whether they establish their homes there with their 
families, or merely spend an occasional day, are certain to enjoy themselves. The 
world-renowned Theodore Thomas Orchestra discourses the music there this season. 
The house is under the management of Mr. R. H. Southgate of Congress Hall, Sara- 
toga, and the Thousand Island House, Alexandria Bay, and Mr. D. S. Hammond of 
the Bristol, New York, which is a sufficient guarantee of the entertainment. Long 
Beach is reached via Long Island Railroad, twenty trains daily from Long Island 
City or Brooklyn. The distance is twenty-four miles requiring about an hour's run. 

NEWPORT, R. L 

Newport is called the "Queen of American watering-places." For salubrity of 
climate and beauty of surrounding scenery it is claimed to possess advantages overall 
other similar resorts. Whether these claims be well sustained or not, to Newport are 
gathered every summer the first elements of American society in greater numbers, 
perhaps, than they are found elsewhere. It is also the favorite summer resort of 
foreign residents in America; and several of the ambassadors from Europe have cot- 
tages there. These give it a social aspect of the highest charm. The city is adorned 
with villas of the most costly and ornate character — surrounded by every feature of 
wealth and rural luxury — the country seats of gentlemen of fortune and culture, of 
New York, Boston, and other cities. At no other American resort are balls, receptions, 
and dinner and garden-parties given on such a lavish and tasteful scale, and at 
no other place on our shores can such a perfect whirl of superb equipages be 
seen as may be beheld every evening on the grand drive on Bellevue Avenue, 
rivaling in number and elegance those of Hyde Park and the Bois de Boulogne. 
Its site is matchless, its climate delicious, its bay glorious. The grandest boats 
that steam over the seas of the world land tourists at Newport. 

The most beautiful and swiftest-flying yachts that skim upon the waters of the 
globe spread their white sails about the shores at Newport during "the season." In 
and around the city are many interesting and beautiful localities. Buildings erected 
long before the Revolutionary War, and occupied during the period of the struggle 
by Rochambeau and other heroes of distinction, are still standing. Among the 
scores of other natural and artificial curiosities which contribute to the charm of the 
place, may be enumerated the " Old Stone Mill," supposed to have been built by 
the Northmen several hundred years before Columbus discovered America; Fort St. 
Louis, a quaint old ruin at the entrance to the harbor; Fort Adams, one of the 
largest fortifications in America, situated on a point a mile and a half southwest of the 
city; Purgatory Rocks, Hanging Rocks, " The Dumplings," and the Glen, wonder- 
fully strange natural formations in the cliffs along the shore, and in the rocks in the har- 
bor; Touro Park, given to the town by Judah Touro, a Hebrew, who was born here, and 
the Jewish Cemetery and Synagogue, preserved through bequests left by him. The 
visitor can occupy days in studying these and other attractions of the place, and in 
the pursuit will find information as well as pleasure. The beaches at Newport are 
exceedingly beautiful, and the bathing is unsurpassed by any seaside resort in America. 



THE SEASHORE. 1 29 

Newport is one of the capitals of Rhode Island, and is situated on a declivity of 
the southwest shore of the island from which the State is named, facing the harbor ■ 
on Narragansett Bay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow 
streets, bordered with the residences of the permanent inhabitants, many of which are 
mansions of " ye olden time." New Newport almost surrounds the old .town, and 
stretches away to the south with a great number of villas and cottages, of which we 
have before spoken. This resort may be reached from New York by the Sound line 
of steamers, or by the Short Line Railroad, and from Boston, the Old Colony or 
Boston and Providence Railroads. 

NARRAGANSETT PIER, R. I. 

The fame of Narragansett as a summer resort has been wholly achieved during the 
last twenty years, the first sojourn of boarders in the locality having occurred, accord- 
ing to present traditions, in 1856. Two or three years later visitors began to multiply, 
until the place developed into one of considerable popularity. It has now an array 
of hotels almost too numerous to mention, with various capacities from fifty to three 
hundred guests, and rates from eight dollars per week to three dollars per day. The 
convenient location of Narragansett Pier at the mouth of Narragansett Bay, and con- 
venient to so many large cities, together with other natural advantages, furnish good 
reason for its large patronage, and render its popularity reasonably well assured for 
future years. It has a fine beach both for driving and bathing, which, with the fine 
fishing and sailing, make its advantages marked. The surf is light, and the water 
deepens very gradually, which, with the absence of strong currents, renders it more 
than ordinarily safe. One great attraction is the delightful boating on the bay. The 
largest hotel is situated on Narragansett Heights, three miles from the Pier, from 
which there is a grand view of the ocean and adjoining country. In this vicinity also 
is Silver Lake, a picturesque and enchanting spot. Narragansett Pier is most directly 
and pleasantly reached by the elegant boats of the Stonington Line from New York. 

GREENWICH, CONN. 

Situated on the Long Island Sound, twenty-five miles from New York, this charm- 
ing Connecticut vil- 
lage is one of the ' j _^ 
healthiest and pret- p^\ ' ' . 

villas, notably those indian harbor hotel. 

of William Rockefellow, Jeremiah Milbank, E. C. Benedict, E. K. Willard, H. O. Have- 

meyer, A. F. Higgins, N. Witherell, R. M. Bruce and others. There are churches of the 



130 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

different denominations. The drives are numerous and the roads are excellent. The 
harbor affords the best anchorage for yachts. The Indian Harbor Hotel, constructed 
in the most substantial and elegant manner and recently enlarged by the addition of 
an annex of 130 rooms, is located on a bluff with a water frontage of over 500 feet. Its 
broad porticoes are over 1000 feet in length. The parlors are said to be the largest and 
most elegantly furnished of any summer resort on the coast. The hotel has every 
modern convenience, electric bells, telegraph office, telephone with New York City, 
steam heat, gas, running water, etc. The spacious dining-room, is detached from the 
main buildings, has a ceiling thirty feet m height and is entirely lined with hard woods. 
The cafe, billiard-room, and bowling-alleys are in detached buildings, while the brick 
stables are ample and fire-proof. Connected with the hotel is a grove of thirty acres of 
shade-trees; this makes, with the water frontage, a rare combination, and is one of the 
main features of the hotel. The out-door sports are complete — yachting, boating, 
sea-bathing, fishing, and in addition archery and lawn-tennis with croquet grounds 
for children. The bathing-beach has been sectioned and made absolutely secure for 
ladies and children. The present lessees have made many important changes for the 
season of 1884, which will materially add to the capacity of the hotel and the com- 
fort, luxury and entertainment of its guests. The orchestra has been increased, and 
every department is under the control of the most efficient and competent heads. 

MARTHA'S VINEYARD, MASS. 

For over fifty years this island has been a prominent camp-meeting ground for 
Methodists and Baptists, who have congregated here during the summer for worship 
in " God's first temples." Of late years it has become very popular as a place for 
summer residence. The island, which is about twenty-two miles in length, and from 
six to ten miles in width, was discovered in 1602 by Captain Goswold,who gave it the 
name it still bears. Martha, it is said, was a " lost Lenore " of Captain Goswold. 
Oak Bluffs, the principal resort on the Island, has been aptly called the Cottage City 
of America. It contains over one thousand cottages, most of which are elegant and 
many of them very costly. Life at Oak Bluffs is peculiarly free from the restraint and 
care which characterize most fashionable seaside resorts. While the place is still 
largely frequented by Methodists, sojourners of this denomination by no means 
monopolize the city. A camp-meeting, usually lasting for two weeks, is still held 
every summer in the month of August. Some of the most distinguished and eloquent 
Methodist preachers may be heard during **camp." The fine drives in the vicinity of 
Oak Bluffs afford many charming ocean views. Boating, sailing, sea-bathing, blue- 
fishing, and other sea-side pastimes, charm and delight the visitor throughout the 
season, which reaches its height during "camp-meeting week," when from 25,000 to 
40,000 people are on the ground. Oak Bluffs is well provided with excellent hotels, 
but it has few boarding-houses. Rooms can be readily rented at private houses and 
meals obtained at the restaurants and hotels. The island of Martha's Vineyard con- 
stitutes a county of Massachusetts and is separated from the mainland by Vineyard 
Sound. There are other resorts besides Oak Bluffs on the island — resorts of consider- 
able pretensions and of high grade. Two miles west of Oak Bluffs, on the excellent 
harbor known as Holmes' Hole, is the town of Vineyard Haven. Many summer 
boarders sojourn here. Edgartown and Katama, seven miles distant from the Bluffs, 
and connected with it by a narrow-guage steam railway, affords fine facilities for 



THE SEASHORE. 131 

bathing and boating. Boats run daily from New Bedford and other points across 
Vineyard Sound to the various landings on the island. 

NANTUCKET, MASS. 

A quarter of a century ago the quaint old town of Nantucket, situated on the 
northern shore of the island bearing the same name, was a busy and prosperous town, 
but with the decline of the whale fishery its industry was ruined. Its chief business 
now is to entertain the army of summer tourists who yearly seek recreation and rest 
on the island. Nantucket is famous for its blue-fishing, which is indulged in not only 
by trolling, but by beach fishing, known as heave and haul, that is, casting a line from 
the shore among the breakers and hauling it in quickly. Riding and sailing are also 
among the favorite exercises of this resort. Surf-bathing is somewhat unsafe, and 
hence but little indulged in. The sea air is fresh and invigorating at all times — the 
sojourner here being practically at sea. The thermometer rarely rises above eighty 
degrees, and the nights are always deliciously cool. With the healthfulness of its 
climate, its quiet repose, and general home-like character, it offers strong attractions 
to the invalid, while it invites all to its recreations and rest from the activities of life. 
Tourists are invariably charmed and delighted with Nantucket as a resort. On the 
eastern side of the island, situated on a bluff, is the little village of Siasconset. It is 
quite a favorite resort, and is annually visited by many tourists. Nantucket is about 
three hours by steamer from New Bedford. 

FROM CAPE ANN TO CAPE COD. 

That portion of the Massachusetts coast stretching northeast from Boston to 
Cape Ann, and southeast to Cape Cod, with its thousand strange and beautiful inden- 
tations and jagged outlines, is famous among travelers and tourists. Swampscott, 
twelve miles from the city, is one of Boston's most fashionable watering-places. It has 
four beautiful, hard sandy beaches, which afford perfect seaside walks and drives. The 
surf-bathing here is admirable. Four miles farther on is the historic old town of Salem, 
a very agreeable place of summer residence. Farther on, twenty miles from Boston, is 
Marblehead, " a backbone of granite, a vertebra of syenite and porphyry, thrust out in- 
to Massachusetts Bay in the direction of Cape Ann, and hedged about with rocky islets." 
Marblehead is one of the most famous of American cities. Its situation is such as to 
command a beautiful view in all directions. Perfect surf and still-water bathing, 
excellent fishing, and the general healthfulness of the climate combine to make it a 
popular resort. Manchester, five miles from Marblehead, is the next point reached. 
This is one of the loveliest watering-places on the Massachusetts shore, as it is one of 
the most famous among tourists and travelers of our country. Gloucester, a pleasantly- 
situated and compactly-built city, comes next in the line. It is twenty-eight miles 
from Boston, and while resorted to by many during the summer months, offers fewer 
attractions to tourists than most of the other resorts along the coast. Fishing is the 
all-absorbing industry of the place. Rockport, on Cape Ann, thirty-one miles from 
the " modern Athens," has in recent years gained considerable popularity as a sum- 
mer resort. Many beautiful cottages, the summer homes of Boston merchant 
princes, are erected here. Granite quarrying is the aristocratic and money-making 
occupation of the people of Rockport. 

Turning back to Boston, and starting down the harbor, bound for Cape 



132 OUR A ME RICA N RE SOR TS. 

Cod, many natural beauties, calculated to delight and interest the tourist, are 
encountered. It is not easy to have a more delightful sail than down Boston 
harbor, when its islands and the banks of its shores are clothed in their summer 
garb. Beautiful villas fringe the southern coast of the bay from Boston to beyond 
Cohasset. Quincy, eight miles from the Hub, and the birthplace of John Adams, second 
President of the United States, has become one of the most select seaside resorts in the 
neighborhood of the New England metropolis. Weymouth, five miles farther down, 
is noted for fine summer residences, and the excellent facilities it offers for bathing, 
fishing and sailing. Hingham, fifteen miles from Boston, is celebrated for the beauty 
of its scenery, and the superiority of all of its seaside features. Melville Garden, 
Downer Landing, an alluring retreat, hard by, is daily sought by crowds from the 
city. It is, perhaps, the most popular place in the harbor for " spending the day." 
Its fine grove, excellent restaurant, commodious dancing pavilion, and superior 
clam-bakes are widely known among Eastern Massachusetts folk. Nantasket, but a 
mile farther from Boston, is famous for its unrivaled four-mile beach, its elegant 
bathing, and good hotels. Cohasset, six miles farther on, affords a good opportunity 
for seeing all that is grand and sublime in old ocean. The surf-bathing here in calm 
weather is superior, though during, a gale the sea becomes very rough, and the in- 
rolling waves rise extremely high. Scituate, six miles from Cohasset, is very much 
like it in character. Plymouth, the American Mecca, would commend itself to tourists 
from all parts of the world, because of its historic associations, even though it were 
not, as it really is, one of the most delightful of watering-places on the American 
coast. Sandwich, Cotuit Port, Yarmouth, Hyannis, and Wellfleet, " on the Cape," 
are all situated in the midst of charming surroundings, and are favorite resorts. 
Provincetown, on the extreme point of Cape Cod, is becoming quite popular as a 
summer resort, though by reason of the sterility of the soil in the neighborhood, 
which has made it undesirable as a place of permanent residence, and a good place 
to emigrate from rather than go to, it has not received as high a rank among water- 
ing-places as it merits. All of the resorts mentioned under this head may be reached 
by boat or rail from Boston, and at all good hotel accommodation will be found. 

ISLES OF SHOALS, N. H. 

About nine miles off the coast of New Hampshire, southeast from Portsmouth, 
is a group of small isles known as the Isles of Shoals, which are popular, particularly 
among New Englanders, as a summer resort. The history of the Isles dates back to 
July 15th, 1605, when they were seen by the French navigators, De Monts and Cham- 
plain. They were very early the resort of fishermen, and were the home of a large 
and busy community of traders and fishermen by the middle of the seventeenth 
century. The people were ordered off the islands at the outbreak of the Revolution, 
and a few only returned at the close of the war, from which time the population has 
gradually diminished, until now the islands are simply the temporary abode of the 
"valetudinarian and the summer idler." Appledore, the principal island of this bar- 
ren group, rises to a height of about seventy-five feet above the level of the sea. Star 
Island may, perhaps, be reckoned as second in importance. On both of these islands 
large and commodious summer hotels are located. Other dark and gloomy ledges, 
which rear their heads above the roaring breakers, and upon which many a staunch 
ship has been dashed to pieces, are known as Smutty Nose, Londoner's, Duck, and 



THE SEASHORE. 



m 



White Islands. Fishing and boating, which are unsurpassed here, contribute to make 
the time pass agreeably with tourists. The atmosphere is quite bracing at all times, 
and for that reason it is not advisable for persons afflicted with pulmonary ailings, 
and others with delicate constitutions, to go directly to the Isles from warm and quiet 
inland places. Steamers ply between the Isles and Portsmouth, ten miles distant. 



BAR HARBOR, MT. DESERT ISLAND, ME. 

Mt. Desert Island, in Frenchman's Bay, just off the coast of Maine, about one 
hundred and ten miles east of Portland and forty miles southeast of Bangor, has, by 
reason of the coolness of its climate and the magnificence of its scenery, become one 




BAR HAR130R. 



of the most popular summer resorts for tourists along the New England coast. The 
island is about one hundred square miles in extent and has a population of four 
thousand. The greater part of its surface is covered with thirteen granite mountains, 
whose highest peak. Green Mountain, attains an altitude of some fifteen hundred 
feet. High up among the mountains are many beautiful lakes, the largest of which 
is several miles in length. These lakes, and the streams that flow into them, abound 
in trout. The southeast coast of the island is lined with stupendous cliffs several 
hundred feet in height. 

Bar Harbor, on the eastern shore of the island, is the favorite stopping-place for 
tourists. The village here is locally known as East Eden, and contains a number of 
first-class summer hotels, chief among which is the Grand Central. From Bar Har- 
bor the visitor is afforded the best opportunity to explore the cliffs on the shore and 



134 OUR AMERICAN RESORTS. 

make excursions to points of interest in the interior of the island. Among the objects 
of interest in the vicinity of this resort are Green Mountain, which may be easily 
ascended, the scenery from the summit of which is extremely grand and beautiful ; 
Schooner Head, amass of white jutting cliffs, which, from the sea, bear a close resem- 
blance to a ship under sail ; The Ovens, a number of holes resembling in form a 
"Dutch oven," worn in the rocks by the action of the tides, approachable only when 
the tide is out ; Great Head, the highest headland between Cape Cod and New 
Brunswick ; thunder Cave and Spouting Horn, two mysterious caverns in the rocky 
wall surrounding the island, and many other strange and charming places. Boating 
and fishing on the bay and angling in the lakes is the favorite pastime with tourists 
domiciled here. The most popular way of reaching Bar Harbor is by steamer from 
Portland. 

NEWPORT NEWS, VA. 

The new Hotel Warwick, recently opened here, promises to successfully rival the 
Hygeia at Old Point Comfort. It is one of the most elegantly furnished and 
complete houses, in all of its appointments, anywhere to be found outside of New York 
City. Its situation is exceedingly delightful, at the mouth of the James River, which 
is here several miles wide and commanding a view of the entire Harbor of Hampton 
Roads, through the entrance of which a glass will carry the sight out into the Atlan- 
tic. From the observatory, eighty feet above the river, an extended view of land and 
water may be had. Hampton Roads, Fortress Monroe, Chesapeake Bay, and the 
capes of Virginia are discernible in the distance, while to the west the river spreads 
out in a sheet of water eight miles wide as far as the eye can reach. The hotel is 
built upon a bluff which rises from the beach, and the grounds surrounding it are 
beautifully laid off into lawns and walks. The harbor affords delightful and perfectly 
safe sailing, and to those who enjoy fishing, a great pleasure awaits them. 

During the hottest weather of summer a constant breeze prevails from the 
southwest, which in passing over the wide expanse of water is rendered pure and 
refreshing, while a hot and close night so frequently experienced at the North is 
rarely known on the bluffs at Newport News. Boating, fishing, and hunting may be 
enjoyed during the season. Immediately in front of the hotel, on the sloping bank 
of the river, is a natural ravine, studded with full-grown trees, which has been con- 
verted into a miniature park. An excellent sandy beach, gently sloping and admira- 
bly adapted for bathing, is found directly in front of the hotel, extending up the river 
for miles and affording a delightful stroll. Tourists to and from New York by the 
Old Dominion Line will find a rest at the Warwick pleasant i-ndeed, and it will also 
be found a delightful place to visit by those who are guests of the Hygeia, the rail- 
road making the trip a short and easy one, and thus enabling one to taste a variety 
and allow neither one place nor the other to become monotonous. 

OLD POINT COMFORT, VA. 

There is scarcely a resort in the country more widely and favorably known than the 
Hygeia Hotel at "Old Point." Health-seekers from the Northeastern and Northwestern 
cities congregate at this half-way place between the tropics and their own colder climate 
in large numbers during the winter and spring, while many others seek it for the sea 
air in summer. It is also a favorite stopping-place for thousands who come that 
way on their return from Florida and the Bermudas. The Hygeia is situated one 



THE SEASHORE. 



'35 



hundred yards from Fort Monroe, at the confluence of the Chesapeake Bay and 
Hampton Roads, fifteen miles from Norfolk and Portsmouth. It is reached by daily 
lines of steamers from Baltimore, Washington, Richmond and Norfolk, and by rail 
via the Midland and Chesapeake & Ohio Railways. The hotel is four stories in 
height, substantially built and well furnished. It has two Otis elevators, electric 
bells, with every modern convenience, including hot sea baths. It is in fact a perfect 
sanitarium. By improvements and additions recently made over i,ooo guests can be 
comfortably entertained at any time. Wide and joyous-looking verandas fronting on 
the water, having 1,500 feet, or about half their extent, encased in glass, during the 
cooler season, afford retreats where the most delicate may enjoy the sunlight and 




HYGEIA HOTEL, AS ENLARGED. 

water-view without exposure. There is music and dancing every evening, and all 
the pleasures of a fashionable watering-place are to be enjoyed. The climate of Old 
Point Comfort is unequaled for salubrity and general healthfulness, malarial fevers 
being absolutely unknown. The meteorological record for the past ten years shows 
an average temperature of 74*^ in summer, 59° in autumn, 44^ in winter, 52° for 
spring. The whole region roundabout is filled with picturesque scenery, offering de- 
lightful drives by day and romantic strolls by night. Boating and fishing are especi- 
ally attractive, and the surf bathing, which is good from May until November, is un- 
surpassed on the Atlantic seaboard. For sleeplessness and nervousness, the delicious 
tonic of the pure ocean air and the lullaby of the waves rolling upon the sandy 
beach, but a few feet from the bedroom windows, are most healthful soporifics. 




SeNGERNING HaY-ReVER. 



The annual enforced hegira of the victims of this mysterious malady is co-existent with the summer 
vacation season, and a few words concerning it, with a list of exempt, or partially exempt, localities may 
appropriately find place here. Though sufferers from the strange diseases are numbered by thousands, and 
apparently increasing every year, the question is often asked, "What is Hay-fever?" That inquiry em- 
bodies a profound, and as yet unanswered, conundrum. The unfortunate victims can readily define its 
symptoms, for they are deeply impressed upon the faculties of all who have ever experienced them, but 
why they exist or how they are caused, nobody has yet satisfactorily explained. There are theories and 
theories, but no conclusive demonstrable knowledge. And the most astonishing feature of it is the dense 
ignorance of the medical profession concerning it. Eleven years ago when the editor of this publication 
was first attacked, he had never heard of hay-fever, and of four physicians consulted that season, not one 
could either afford any relief, or tell what the difficulty was. The most that is known about it up to the 
present time is the result of the study and observation of its victims. It is an aristocratic disease, the 
peculiarity being that its victims are almost exclusively people whose occupations are some form of brain- 
- work. 

It is not the purpose of this brief article to enumerate, and dilate upon, the symptoms of hay-fever, or to 
enter into a discussion of the numerous theories concerning it. To some the germ theory seems most prob- 
able, while others hold to the belief that it is produced by polen of certain flowers floating in the atmos- 
phere. Another theory is, that an effluvia from decaying vegetable matter produces the effect, and still 
another, that it is a parasite carried in the atmosphere at a certain period. Whatever it is, whether any 
or all these, only certain organizations are susceptible to its effects. It maybe said that the great majority 
of sufferers, who have carefully studied the subject, incline to the polen theory. The polen of weeds, grasses 
and flowers, which reach a state of maturity at the season when true hay-fever appears, is carried on the 
wings of the wind to all parts of the land, unless obstructed by a wide expanse of water or dense forest. 
The so-called exempt regions are thus protected. It is noticed that those who find relief at the seashore 
are always worse when there is a "land breeze" blowing. The matter of exempt localities can not be 
set down with absolute certainty in all cases ; some find relief in one place, and some in another, while 
others don't find it at all. The writer has never been much relieved anywhere, or by anything, not even 
by the remedy which worked so well in the case of Henry Ward Beecher and others. So many are 
benefited, however, by the remedy as well as by a change of locality, that both are worth a trial by any 
and all sufferers. The principal localities known to be more or less exempt are given below. Those 
marked * are only partial. 

Adirondack Mountains and Lakes. *Nantucket, Mass. 

♦Alleghany Mountains. New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. 

Aroostook River, Me. Nevada. 

Ashland, Wis. (Lake Superior). North Danville, Vt. 

Bayfield, Wis. (Lake Superior). North of St. Lawrence River. 

Calumet (Lake Superior Region). *North Mountain, Sullivan Co., Pa. 

Cambridge Junction, Vt. *Oak Bluffs (Martha's Vineyard). 

*Catskill Mountains. *Oakland, Md. 

Colorado Mountains. Peterborough, N. Y. 

*Cresson, Pa. Petoskey, Mich. 

*Deer Park (Bait. & Ohio R. R.) Put-in-Bay (Lake Erie) 

*Denver, Colorado. *Princeton, Mass. 

Duluth, Minn. Sault delSt. Marie, Mich. 

Eagle River (Lake Superior). *St. Anthony, Minn. 

Eastern and Northern Maine. St. Lawrence Valley — Lower. 

Eastport, Maine. Superior City. 

*Ebensburg, Pa. *Summit, Pa. 

*Fairfield Valley, N. C; height, 3,500 feet. *St. Paul, Minn. 

*Fire Island, N. Y. St. John River, N. B. 

Glover, Vt. ' Tadousac, Canada. 

*Green Bay, Wis. *Wachusett Mountain, Mass. 

Hersey, Mich. West Ch.arleston, Vt. 

Houghton (Lake Superior). White Mountains — including: 

*Kane, Pa. Bethlehem, N. H. Bethel. Maine. 

Keene Flats, Esse.x Co., N. Y. Bowman's, between Moon and Israel Rivers. 

*Lake Minnetonka, Minn. "^ Twin Mountain House. Crawford House. 

Lake Superior Region. Crawford Notch. Cherry Mountain. 

*Mackinaw, Michigan. Fabyans. Franconia Notch and Village. 

Marquette, Mich. (Lake Superior). Jefferson. *Lancaster. *Littleton. 

*Minneapolis, Minn. Mount Washington. 

Moosehead Lake. Old Crawford House. 

*Mt. Mansfield, Vt. Pinkham Notch. Profile House. 

*Mt. Desert. Valleys of Ellis and Sawyer Rivers. 

*Mountain Lake, Giles Co., Va. Whitefield. White Mountain House. 



DR. TOWNSKND'S RKIVLKDY 
For Rose Cold, HAY FEVER, Asthma and Catarrh, 



IS RECOMMENDED AS FOLLOWS BY THE REV. 



HENRY WARD BEECHER. 

Brooklyn, N. Y., Sept. 21, 1381. 
Dr. M. M. Townsend, Frostburg, Md. : 

My Dear Sir : — In spite of all reports to the contrary, your Hay Fever 
Cure has worked admirably in nay own case, and in three others which have 
come under my observation. In my own case the attack was entirely pre- 
vented for ten days after the usual time of its coming. It was so slight 
during the next two weeks that it did not materially interfere with eating, 
sleeping, reading, writing or comfort, and made my stay at home very 
pleasant. There was no asthma whatever at the close, and I have resumed 
my public services in Plymouth Church two weeks in advance of the usual 
time. My sister, Mrs. Perkins, who has been an annual sufferer for more 
than 40 years, has been absolutely free from any attack whatever, as 1 should 
have been, doubtless, if I had kept the house and screened myself from heat 
and dust. A sister of my son's wife has about my experience, viz., a long de- 
ferred attack, slight inconvenience, and entire exemption from asthma, 
though usually a great sufferer. Yovl can say for me that I am indebted 
to you for a great emancipation. I do not say to any that your remedy is a 
certain cure in all cases, but in my judgment the probabilities of benefit are 
such that I should recommend all Hay Fever sufferers to make a thorough 
trial of it. Even if it failed in ten cases, I believe that it will be sure in ninety in 
a hundred. Can more than this be said for quinine and opium in cases 
where they are regarded as specifics ? You are at liberty to make such use 
of this letter as may secure the relief of all Hay Fever patients. 

HENRY WARD BEECHER. 



Brooklyn, N. Y., October 17, 1882. 
M. M. Townsend, M. D.: 

Dear Sir : I am happy to say that your remedy has served me a second 
season fully as well as the last year. I have had a tranquil summer on my farm 
with only a week's slight annoyance, and even that might have been avoided 
if I had attacked it boldly. But the fact is that I had grown so confident of 
relief that I became careless and the annoyance was really of so little ac- 
count that I let it have its way. Not only are my summers redeemed, but I 
have found marked benefit to my comfort through autumn and early winter. 

Hitherto the mucous membrane of the nose and throat have remained very 
sensitive till late winter, and I was subject to recurring feverishness and 
•irritation on the slightest cold. The use of the Remedy seems to have given 
tone to the whole region affected by Hay Fever, and empowered it to resist 
and throw off morbid influences. I advise all who suffer Hay Fever to try 
this Remedy. Instead of leaving behind it any evil effects it will be found 
to have given tone to the whole system; it benefits digestion, renders all the 
head passages clear and intones them to resist colds, catarrhs, etc. 

HENRY WARD BEECHER. 
PRICE: Pint Bottles, $1.50. Four Ounce Bottles, 50 cents. 

SOIiD BY ALL DRUGGISTS. For Pamphlets senl to 



TPHE TOURIST'S POPULAR ROUTK. 



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THE DIRECT AND MOST DELIGHTFUL ROUTE FROM 

NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE AND 

WASHINGTON 

TO 



And all the Noted Summer Resorts of Northern New York, 



— VIA THE • 



Famous WATKINS GLEN, and the New Pleasure Resort, LONG POINT, on Seneca Lake. 
Elegant Double Saloon Side-wheel Steamers 

MAKING 

SIX Daily Trips between WATKINS GLEN and GENEVA during the season of Summer Travel. 

Close and sure connections with all Passenger Trains at GENEVA and WATKINS, 
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Procure your Tickets via the Popular Seneca Lake Route, sold at all principal Stations of the 

PENNSYLVANIA, ERIE, PHILADELPHIA & READINa, LEHIGH VALLEY AND NEW YOSK 
CENTRAL AND HUDSON RIVER RAILROADS. 



o 



M. CRICHTON & CO., 




BALTIMORE 



o 



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^^agles 3^/£ere, I^a., 



A comfortable modern Hotel at reasonable rates. Special terms for families and 
monthly boarders. This Resort, high up in the Mountains, is unexcelled for pure air 
and attractiveness. Pine Woods, a Beautiful Lake and plenty of Game. 

E. V. INGHAIvI, Proprietor. 



LaPorte, Sullivan Co., Pa. 

A most attractive Resort for Health and Comfort during the hot months. Excel- 
lent accommodations and terms to suit the times. Only a short ride to the Lake (Eagles 
Mere), the purest air and always delightfully cool. Address, 



LEHIGH VALLEY ROUTE 

imi US M! in m IB ui mmm. 



Three through trains, with Pullman Cars attached, are' now run via this beautiful 

scenic route from NEW YORK to 

EASTON, WILKESBARBE, WATKINS GLEN, 

BETHLEHEM, PITTSTON, WAVERLY, 

ALLENTOWN, ITHACA, ELMIRA, 

MAUCH CHUNK, GENEVA, ROCHESTER, 

BUFFALO, TORONTO, CHICAGO, 

NIAGARA FALLS, DETROIT, ST. LOUIS, 

SUSPENSION BRIDGE, 



Direct Route to Lehigh, Wyoming, Luzerne, Mahanoy, Hazelton, Beaver Meadow and Schuylliill 

COAL FIELDS. 



Among the many attractions on the line of this route for tourists are MAUCH 
CHUNK, "THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA." Here is also the famed 
"Switchback" Gravity Railroad, extending to the top of Mount Pisgah; GLEN 
ONOKO, rivaling Watkins Glen in grandeur and wonderful natural scenery; GLEN 
SLTMMIT, Lehigh Valley's beautiful new summer resort, situated on the top of the 
Wilkesbarre, 2000 feet above the level of the sea; ITHACA, TAUGHANNOCK 
FALLS and SHELDRAKE, celebrated resorts on Cayuga Lake, Long Point and 
Watkins Glen, on Seneca Lake and THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Double Track, Steel Rails, Magnificent Roadbed and Unrivaled Equipment, 
all combine to make the Lehigh Valley the favorite route between the East and West. 

ANTHRACITE COAL IS USED ENTIRELY, guaranteeing to passengers 
perfect freedom from dense volums of smoke that so greatly annoy passengers on 
lines using Bituminous Coal. 

Three Through Express Trains between BUFFALO, NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, and 
Nine L«cal Trains to all points on the Lehij?h Valley liailroad. 



For full particulars and Time Tables, apply to the 

GENERAL EASTERN OFFICE, 

No. 235 Broadway, New York City, | 



IMF! 



Drake's Heart of the White Mountains. The Heart of the White Mountains. By 
Sa;\iuel Adams Drake, Author of " Nooks and Corners of the New England 
Coast." Illustrated by W. Hamilton Gibson, Author of " Pastoral Days." 4to 
Illuminated Cloth, Gilt Edges, $7.50. Tourist's Edition, $3.00. 

" No doubt the season will produce its regular crop of illustrated holiday gift books, but we risk lit- 
tle in saying that Mr. W. Hamilton Gibson's elegant volume, ' The Heart of the White Mountains, their 
Legend and Scenery,' will remain the chosen favorite of people of good taste and artistic culture. It is 
printed in quarto form, and the illustrations, all from the pencil of Mr. Gibson, are beautiful in design 
and exquisite in execution. The letterpress is by Mr. Samuel Adams Drake, and is quite worthy of the 
artistic part of the work. It is a superb production." — The Stin, Neiv Yoik. 

"'The Heart of the White Mountains ' is one of those splendid drawing-room table books which have 
been printed in this country only of comparatively late years. * * * This volume before us belongs 
to the finest class of landscape pictorials ; the illustrations are little miracles of wood engraving, rendering 
every effect of sunlight or sunset, moonlight or gloaming, clear or foggy distances with witching illusion ; 
there is no color, yet the feeling of the artist creates suggestions of exquisite blue and green tints. The 
style of the text is no doubt familiar to the readers of Harper's Monthly, in the pages of which both en- 
gravings and narrative first appeared. It is breezy, gossipy, instructive, and often delightfully humor- 
ous." — A^eiu 07-leans Democrat. 

" ' The Heart of the White Mountains ; their Legend and Scenery,' by Samuel Adams Drake, with 
illustrations by W. Hamilton Gibson, is one of the very few books of the year which are truly superb. 
As an illustration of the resources of a great American publishing house, this volume from Harper & 
Brothers is a matter of national pride and congratulation. It is not a merely ornamental work, lavishly 
adorned with fine engravings, rich binding and other luxurious features. Its exterior is chastely elegant, 
not so much adorned as to destroy its character as a cover for the treasures within. * * * All but a 
few of the designs are by Mr. Gibson, and this is enough to indicate their style and quality. Their en- 
graving and printing are such as have commanded the admiration of the lovers of art in all parts of the 
world." — A'ew York Obsei"jer. 

" ' The Heart of the White Mountains ; their Legend and Scenery.' A very attractive and interest- 
book has Mr. Drake made out of his subject. The illustrations are excellent — vigorous sketches repro- 
duced with that delicacy of execution in which the American engravers are unsurpassed. — London Spectator. 

"This is not a dry book of travel. The weaving of incidents and legends of various places with 
the description of their scenery makes this book peculiarly valuable, and seems to be a gift peculiar 
to Mr. Drake ; not that his manner of describing these places is dull, far from it, for his vivid and almost 
poetical portrayals together with the fine accompanying engravings, almost place one on the spot. He 
divides his book in three sections, each being the recital of a journey to the White Mountains." — Hick- 
viotid Christian Advocate. 

Nordhoff's California. Cloth, $2.00. 

" Most of those who know anything of California are largely indebted to Mr. Nordhoff for their in- 
formation. The record of his visit to the Pacific coast, some years since, was one of the most complete 
and reliable books that we have had on the character and resources of the State." — X. Y. Observer. 

" People who want to know all about California will find a mine of satisfaction in the new and en- 
larged edition of Charles Nordhoff's California, for Health, Pleasure and Residence. It has not a dull line 
in it, and gives a new idea of the resources and attractions of that State. — Christian at Work, iV. Y. 

" Harper & Brothers have issued a new and thoroughly revised edition of Charles Nordhoff's ' Cali- 
fornia for Health, Pleasure and Residence,' the only thoroughly readable book on the subject that has yet 
made its appearance. It is designed for the use of both settlers and travelers, and therefore contains 
detailed information about the culture of the grape, the raisin, the orange, the lemon, the olive, and other 
semi-tropical fruits, about the method of irrigation, the best places for colony settlements, etc. — JVew York 
Graphic. 

" A better guide to the industries, pleasure resorts, and curiosities of the golden State, cannot be 
well imagined than this book on California by Mr. Nordhoff. He gives complete details regarding the 
culture of the vine and raisin grape, the orange, lemon, olive, and other semi-tropical fruits, colony settle- 
ments, tourist's routes, resorts for invalids, etc., etc. In short, the volume is a perfect encyclopjedia of 
everything that is worth knowing about California, and by its aid one can travel in imagination through a 
country prolific in natural curiosities and interesting developments." — Albany Sunday Press. 



Hasper & Brgtkers will seadl, th© above books by wl^I% postage prepaid, f® 
any part of tk© Waited States, oa seeeipt of tbe price. 





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THE 



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ORT ¥iLLffiM Henry Hotel 



Lake Georo^e, Warren Co., N. Y. 




T. ROESSLE & SON, Proprietors. 



ALSO PROPRIETORS OF 






^1 m. -r. 



SEASON FROM JUNE 1 TO OCTOBER 1 



During tlie past winter the house has been thoroughly overhauled 
and several important additions have been made, prominent among which 
may be mentioned, a new dining room, giving a facility for dining com- 
fortably one thousand guests. Through cars are now run daily from 
Grand Central Depot to Fort William Henry Hotel without change 







NIR. J. L. PATXON, Qeneral Nlanager. 
Mrs. J. Patton, Eating Department. Miss V. BROOKS, Linen Department. 



ONE MILE FROM DEPOT, 

^^' Salem, Virginia. -^^ 




Accommodates about 150 Guests. J. W. CHAPMAN, Clerk. 

Miss Sallie V. Didlake, Eating Department, 

Miss Sallie T. Stone, Linen Department. 

Open 1st of May. Convenient to Telegraph, Post and Railroad Offices and Churches. Dining and Ball Rooms. Omni- 
buses to all trains. Telephone connection with Roanoke Red Sulphiu- Springs. An excellent Band of Music. 
Billiard and Bowling Saloons. Hot and Cold Baths for Ladies and Gentlemen. Health, Pleasure and Comfort. 

For both the above address, 

F. J. CHAPMAN, Prop., Salem, Virginia. 



Gaijuga Lal^e pa^gengeri ^teaiger. 



i^-* J® A H S^ 



— ^ 



=^ 



Between ITHACA and CAYUGA. 




The Steamer Frontenac leaves Ithaca every morningy Sundays 
excepted, connecting at Cayuga with express trains on the N. V. C. & 
H. R. R. R., East and West. 

Returning, connects at Ithaca with evening trains on the D., L. 
& W., and Lehigh Valley Railroads, for Philadelphia and New York. 



if 1411041 %mm 4f f 11 ©4TTO4 Mil lilffl, 

AND AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS, GOING AND COMING: 

GLENWOOD, NORTONS, ' 

TAUGHANNOCK, ATWATER, 

FREEMANSBURG, LAKE RIDGE, 

KIDDERS, AURORA, 

SHELDRAKE, . UNION SPRINGS. 



-Mc fJE^Ii^ Fa^NI^PED ©N BO^^D ^FJIE mW- *<- 



For further information, inquire of 

ITHACA, NEW YORK. 



Wii.i.Am® 




«»SiP««^I*Si^ 



iiiiiilililfllli'! 



^uljs 




-^^T" .^^ s n I isr o- T o asr, id 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 



C. 



This old-established and chosen rendezvous and favorite abiding-place of the most famous men 
and women of America has, under the i^resent management, been thoroughly renovated at an ex- 
pense of over $100,000, and is now pronounced as the model Hotel in luxurious appointments, 
cuisine, service, etc. The " Willard" is located within a stone's-throw of the Executive Man- 
sion, Treasury, War, Navy and State Departments, the Department of Justice, Corcoran Art Galleiy, 
and other numerous points of interest, and can justly be called the most convenient Hotel for 
tourists and other travelers in Washington City. O. G, STAPLES, Proprietor, 

Formerly of The Thousand Island House. 




■^ KRANKIvIN HOUSK, Oeneva, nT Y. ^ 



Newly furnished, heated by steam, first-class in every respect. Conveniently located to E. R. and 
steamboat landing. 'Buss line running; to all trains and steamboats. 



Mat@s s $^.0Q, $^^5© per dlay. 



®e m. HEMIllGfTOlf, Fr@p. 



CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RAILWAY. 

TRUNK LINE BETWEEN 

— AND BETWEEN — 

OLD Foim coiiroRT, HomLK, KEwroET HEWS, imm m 

LOUISVILLE AND CINCINNATI. 



P « 
O £^ 

5f2 










;2; 



o 





W 
H 



© 

e 

o 



In the foregoing pages of this book will be found a description of the 

PAMOUS MINERAL SPRINaS RESORTS OF THE 

BLUE RIDQE AND ALLEaHANY MOUNTAINS, 

And the Seashore Resorts at Old Point Comfort and Newport News reached by the 

-^ Ctnesapeal^e & Oh-io Roiate -^ 

AMERICA'S TOURIST LINE. 

For full information as to Routes, Rates. Tickets and Sleeping-Car reservations, call on anj^ of the followmg agencies : 

NEW YORK— H. W. Carr, General Kasteru Agent, 339 Broadway, 

WASHINGTON, D. C Frank Trigg, Northeastern Passenger Agent, 513 Penna. Ave. 

OLD POINT COMFORT, A'A E. C. Read, Ticket Agent, Hygeia Hotel. 

NORFOLK, VA.- W^.T. Walke, Ticket Agent, Cnder Atlantic Hotel. 
NEAVPORT NEWS, VA.— O. W. Honians, Agent, Pier 1, 

RICHMOND, VA J. C. Dame, Southeastern Passenger Agent.General Offices. 

LEXINGTON, KF. -G. W. Barney, Ticket Agent, C. & O. Station. 

CINCINNATI, O F. W. Buskirk, Ticket and Passenger Agent. 171 Walnut Street. 

LOUISVILLE, KV W. E. Arnold, Ticket and Passenger Agent, 340 W. Main Street. 

ST. LOUIS, 3IO W. P. Foster, Western Passenger Agent, 108 N. Third Street. 

CHICAGO, ILL.— B. \. Jackson, General Northwestern Agent, 130 Washington St. 

C. W. SMITH, H. W. PULLER. 

Gen'l Manager, Richmond, Va. Gen'l Passenger Agent. 




Marrisorjprjoe 



OldpoW^^^^ 



'^ 






Only Resort io Amsrica posses^in^ Turkish, Russian, Roman and Electric Baths. Excellent Surf Bathtng, Boating, 
Fishing, Driving, etc. Terms reasonab'e. Climate free from Malaria, and for Insomnia truly wonderful in its 
soporific effects. Send for descriptive pamphlet. 

EASIEST OF ACCESS FROM RAILWAY AND LAKE STEAMERS. 




South Side Taughannock Falls, N. Y. 

TERMS, $2.00 PER DAY. Special Rates by the Week or Month. 



-^'^. ]V[Oei{pO]^D, Ppoprietop. ^ 

|^~ The views of the great Falls, 215 feet ; the Gorge, 3.50 to 400 feet, and Lake Cayuga from the grounds of the 
CATARACT HOUSE, are said, by visitors, to be the finest obtainable. To those seeking a quiet and homelike Summer 
Resort for re.st, with splendid scenery and fine country drives over 1,000 feet above the sea level, this is just the place. 
No Mosquitos. The grounds are covered with pine and chestnut groves. The house is governed by temperance 
principles. 



Market Square, 




Mauch Chunk, Pa. 



!,& W&^mTTm %:mmt'Z,t FrQpriet®^. 



Free Omnibuses to all Lehigh Valley Trains Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per Day. 

Accommodations First-Class. 



WEST SHORE ROUTE. 



Favorite Line for Business and Pleasure Travel. 



Pullman Buffet Parlor and Sleeping Cars 



-TO. 



IBTTIF^IE^^f^nijO Xi?B OiEIIO^f^G-O 



NEW YOEK 

-TO- 

Haverstraw, 

Cornwall, 

Newburgh, 

New Paltz, 

Kingston, 

Catskill, 

Albany, 

"Utica, 

Syracuse, 

Rochester, 

Buffalo, 

Niagara Fails 

Detroit. 

Chicago, 

AND THE 

WEST- 




NEW YOEK 

-TO- 

Catsl(ill 
Mountains, 

Saratoga, 

Lake George, 

Adirondacks, 

Mohawk Lake, 

Lake 
MInnewaska, 

Lebanon 
Springs, 

Richfield 
Springs, 

Sharon 
Springs, 

Cooperstown, 

St. Lawrence 
River, 

Alexandria 
Bay, 

Niagara Falls. 



AT THE FOOT OF DUNDERBERG, HUDSON RIVER. 

ITEJTXr -S-OTSIZ, -^■VE:ST S XI O IS E: <S= ^■U-^T'.A.IjO IS-A.131jT!V--S>.-2-. 



THREE DEPOTS IN NEW YORK, 



ONE DEPOT IN BROOKLYN, 
ONE DEPOT IN JERSEY CITY, 
ONE DEPOT AT WEEHAWKEN, 



FOOT OF CORTLANDT STREET. 
DESBROSSES 
WEST 42d 
ANNEX, FOOT OF FULTON STREET. 
- PENN. R. R. STATION. 
OPPOSITE 42d STREET, NEW YORK. 



Tickets, Time Tables, and information can be obtained at tlie Company's station", at ticket ofHces of connecting 
lines, and at ticket offices in New England and tlirougliout the West. For further information, address 

HElTinr MOITETT, 

General Passenger Agent, 

No. 24 State Street, New York. 



Ill iMii fiiii mmwAT 



IN CONNECTION WITH THE • 



Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, 



mwmM^' WT.mMm'^mM wmm^EM^ 



And they now offer a choice selection of Popular Excursion Routes 
via Niagara Falls, Toronto, River St. Lawrence {with 
its Thousand Islands and Rapids), Montreal, 
Quebec, River Saguenay, Lakes Cham- 
plain and George, Saratoga, §^c. 



The Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company's Steamers comprise the original Royal Mail 

f 
and Richelieu Lines, with the addition of several new steamers, thus forming two first-class lines 

of steamers, which for speed, safety and comfort, cannot be surpassed. They are the only lines 

now offering tourists an opportunity to view the magnificent scenery of the Thousand Islands and 

Rapids of the St. Lawrence, also the far-famed River Saguenay. This route possesses peculiar 

advantages over any other, as by it parties have their choice of either side of Lake Ontario, and 

River St. Lawrence between Niagara Falls and Quebec ; and the tickets are also valid by rail or 

steamer between Niagara Falls and Quebec. The improved condition of the Grand Trunk 

Railway, including its equipment of new passenger cars, new locomotives, steel track, etc., 

now brings it prominently before the public as a first-class line, and preferable to the majority of 

lines between the East and West. The Grand Trunk Railway (via Gorham and the Glen House, 

is the only route by which parties can ascend the far-famed Mt. Washington by carriage road. 

Tickets and information may be obtained at the principal ticket offices. 

NEW YORK OKKICE, = -= = 285 Broad^^av. 

BOSTON OKKICK, 2SO Washilngton St. (formerly 134). 

J. STEPHENSON, ALEX. IVTILLOY, 

Gen' I Pass. Agent G. T. Railway, Mont real. Traffic Manager Richelieu <& Ontario Nav. Co. 

228 St. Paul St., Montreal. 



"I'lie Albert Lea I^oute." 



No candidate for the favor of the traveling public ever became so suddenly popular as the above- 
named route, to Minneapolis and St. Paul. 
The route is composed of the Chicago, Rock Island &: Pacific Railway, the Burlington 
Cedar Rapids & Northern Railway, and the Minneapolis & St. Louis Railway, making a 
line to the Northwest that pleases every patron, since it passes through the most picturesque portion of 
the States of Illinois, Iowa and Minnesota. In fact the journey is, as far as scenery goes, one of pleasant 

of the great States 
traversed by this 
route, must pass over 
it and see the results 
of the few years of 
development since it 
all was a wilderness, 
given up to the In- 
dian and the Buffalo. 
THE ALBERT LEA 
ROUTE has two 
through daily trains 
from CHICAGO to 
MINNEAPOLIS 
and ST. PAUL, at 
both of which places, 
in Union Depots, it 
connects with all the 
trains over the 
Northern Pacific R. 
^^ R. and the St. Paul, 
Minneapolis & Man- 
itoba R'y, for all 
points in Northern 
Minnesota, Dakota 
and Manitoba and 
West to Oregon. 

The fastest train 
run out of Chicago 
is the 11.00 A. M. 
Express to St. Paulr 



surprises, as it intro- 
duces the traveler to 
the famous Cedar 
Valley of Iowa, and 
the Park region of 
Minnesota, wherein 
rests hundreds of 
beautiful lakes, and 
where groves of oak, 
elm, walnut, ash, and 
other woods, are not 
surpassed in the 
United States. 

The rolling ground 
gentle hills, the 
lakes, the prairie 
with its wonderful 
flora, the green and yr 
inviting groves, and 
its lakes of varied 
size and shapes, all 
give to the country 
the highly appropri- 
ate name of the Park 
Land, for art of man 
can scarce improve 
the landscape-gar- 
dening of Nature. 

Whoever would 
have an intelligent 
idea of the resources 




[MINNKHAHA FALLS. MINN. 

and with its magnificent DAY CARS, FAMOUS DINING CARS, PULLMAN PALACE SLEEPING 
CARS, is one of the most elegant trains run in this country. Emigrants and second-class passengers 
are carried on Fast Express Trains, in coaches finely upholstered, well ventilated and warmed, and free 
from any objection on the score of either speed or comfort. Round trip land-explorer's^tickets are for 
sale at all points in the UNITED STATES and CANADA, to all points in the GREAT NORTHWEST, 
and Coupon Agents everywhere have maps, time tables, etc., that show the traveler when he arrives at all 
principal points. 

Be sure your tickets read via CHICAGO and WEST LIBERTY, as no others are via "THE FA- 
MOUS ALBERT LEA ROUTE." 



For any further information, address, 

R. R. CABLE, OR 

..^ President and Gen'l Man. CHICAGO, ILL. 



E. ST. JOHN, 
Gen'l Ticket and Pass. Agent. 



THE BEST EQUIPPED RAILROAD IN THE WORLD. 



^^ 



^^ 



It is and always will be the tourist's favorite route between Chicago 
and all points of interest in the -West and Northwest. 

It is the shortest and best route from Chicago to Council Bluffs, 
Omaha, Denver, San Francisco a7id Portlafid, Oregon. 

It is th.& famous palace car route between Chicago and Minneapolis, 
St. Paul, Milwaukee, Sparta, Green Lake, Lake Geneva, Madison, Green 
Bay, Marquette, Ishpeming, and the Lake Superior region. 

It is the only direct route to Water tozmt, Columbia, Huron, Pierre, 
and the ereat asfricultural districts of Southern Alinnesota and Ceiitral 
Dakota. 

It is the best equipped railway in the world, and will take you to 
any point on its 5,000 miles of road with the greatest speed, comfort and 
safety known to modern railway service. 

MM Slss;isg and llis \ii\ii Wmi^i \m{\\\ 

run on trains to Council Bluffs, Milwaukee, Minneapolis and St. Paul 
Insist upon ticket agents selling you tickets via this route. Examine 

them, and refuse to buy them if they do not read over the C. & N. W. R'y. 

If you wish the best traveling accommodations, you will buy your ticket 

by this route, and will take no7ie other. 

For rates and information not obtainable from your home ticket 

agent regarding all points in the West and Northwest, write to General 

Passenger Agent C. & N. W. R'y, Chicago, Ills. Send to him for a copy 

of ''A Summer Holiday." It tells all about the Northwestern summer 

resorts, and will be sent free. 

(SAY WHERE YOU SAW THIS NOTICE.) 



New York & New England R. R. 



-> PRINCIP/IL: Cin^IEg vj^NDvTOWN? : 



^ 



Boston, New Lomloii, Rockville, Daiihury, 

■ Providence, SpringfleM, S. Manchester, Brewsters, 

Worcester, Hartford, New Britain, Fisliliill and 

Norwich, Williniantlc, Waterbnry, Newburg-on-theHndson. 



-WITH CONNECTIONS FOR- 



New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore i Washington, 

AND THE 

SOUTH AND WEST. 

^NORWICH LINK^Ie^ 



-BKTWKRN ■ 



BOSTON AND NEW YORK. 

Eleg:ant Fleet of Steamers, among- them the New and Magnificent Steamer, " THE CITY OF 
WORCESTER," the Finest on the Long Island Sound. 



i@ii®i iii f Mkiil|jlili i^i'iiii Mm. 

Running Magnificent Pullman Palace Cars, 
':!• WITHOUT CHANQE,4> 



-BETWEEN- 



BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON. 



A. C. KENDALL, CHAS. P. CLARK, 

General Passenger Agent. Receiver. 



On the line of ihe 

NEW YORK, ONTARIO & WESTERN RAILWAY, 

Among the breezy hills and shady woods of Central New York. 

THOUSAND ISLAND LINE 

BETWEEN 

New York and Alexandria Bay, 

In connection with a 

-3|cD7imY LINE eF ^iPE^MER? F]^0M @?WE60,*^ 

THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 



^ottchiog at KSEteS'EON (©atasip), C&FB vsncent:, Ct&Yl^OK, aad all! tt© 

i,i^a4iagsi Qf 



New, First-class, Staunch Palace Steamer leaving Oswego on arrival of New York train. Superb 
daylight ride of 60 miles across Lake Ontario to Kingston, Canada, and down the St. Lawrence River 
to Alexandria Bay, Through the entire length of the Thousand Islands, msking all landings. 

Night express trains from New York to Oswego with Pullman Palace Buffett Sleeping Cars every 
day, including Sunday. Train leaves New York at Cortlandt and Desbrosses streets Ferries (Penn. R. R.), 
and N. Y., O. & W, station, foot of West 42d Street, at 7 p.m., arriving in Oswego 7.45 a.m. Steamer 
leaves daily, including Sundays, on arrival of train, reaching Kingston at 12.30 p.m., and Alexandria Bay 
at 2 p.m. Breakfast on the Boat. Day express leaves New York at 8.30 a.m. daily, except Sunday, 
arriving in Oswego 10.00 p.m. By this route tourists can obtain a view of two of the most beautiful 
rivers in America, The Grand and Historic Highlands of the Hudson and the Islands of the St. 
Lawrence. Rates as low as any line. Steamer begins her trips on Monday, June 30th, and continues 
daily during season of 1S84. Close connections made in Union Station at Oneida Castle with New York, 
West Shore & Buffalo. Tickets, time-tables and information can be obtained at the Company's stations, 
at offices of connecting lines, and at the following offices of the Company: 



IN NEW YORK CITY. 

No. 363 Broadway, corner Franklin Street. 

No. 946 Broadway, near Madison Square. 

No. 737 Sixth Avenue, corner 42d Street. 

No. 1323 Broadway, near 33d Street. 

No. 419 Broadway, corner Canal Street. 

No. 168 East 125th Street, Harlem. 

AsTOR House Ticket Office. 

No. 162 Broadway, American Exchange Travel- 
ers' Bureau. 

No 207 Broadway, Leve & Alden's Tourist 
Office. 

No. 261 Broadway, Thos. Cook & Son, Tourist 
Office. 

No. 5 Union Square, Leve & Alden's Tourist 
Office. 



Penn. R.R. Station, loot of Desbrosses Street. 
Penn. R.R. Station, foot of Cortlandt Street. 
West Shore Station, foot of West 42d Street. 

IN JERSEY CITY. 

Pennsylvania Railroad Station. 

IN HOBOKEN. 

Buscii's Hotel, and Nos. 115 and 254 Washing 
ton Street. 

IN BROOKLYN. 

No. 4 Court Street. 

No. 7 De Kalb Avenue. 

No. 838 Fulton Street. 

Brooklyn Annex, Office, foot of Fulton Street. 



J. C. ANDERSON, General Passenger Agent, 24 Siate St., N. Y. 



'W1%%1M'M MH^BE & e©.»S 




. .jg^-c- f Baltimore, Nld.. ■'■ :n:=|<" 



These instruments have been before the public for nearly fifty years, and upon their excellence alone have attained 
an unpurchased pre-emineyice, which establishes them as unequaled in Tone, Touch, Workmanship and Durability. 
Every Piano fully warranted for five years. Prices greatly reduced. Illustrated Catalogues and Price Lists promptly 
furnished on application. 

TX7-IXjXjI-A-3^ ISHnT-^BE 6z CO., 
112 Fifth Avenue, New York. 204 & 206 W. Baltimore Street, Baltimore. 



MURRAY HILL HOTEL. 



Park Ave., 40th and 4Ui Sfs., New York. 



Will open about August Twentieth. 




tNE block from the Grand Central Depot. Most modern in its construction, sanitary and ven- 
tilating: arrangements perfect. Fire-proof. Conducted on both American and European 
plans. Persons arriving at Grand Central Depot will hold their baggage checks until arriving at 
the Hotel Office, where the regular porters will take them and deliver in room, free of charge, 

thus saving the cost and worry of transportation. 

HUNTINQ & HAIVIMOND. 




Y 







TOURS AND 



EXCURSIONS 



Persons who are called from home during the coming Summer, pro- 
posing to travel to points 



Niagara Fails, 
Tiiousand Islands, 

Rapids of St. Lawrence, 

Montreal, 

Quebec. 




Maritime Provinces, 
Halifax, 
Mt. Desert, 
Wiiite Mountains, 
Etc., Etc., Etc., 



will consult their best interests by calling upon MESSRS. LEYE & ALDEN, 
ivho offer combination tours. COVERING ANY DESIRED ROUTE, and effecting 
a considerable saving off local rates. 

Send for copy of "AMERICAN TOURIST GAZETTE," and sample ticket to 
Europe, via Jfiagara Falls, Thousand Islands, Montreal, Quebec and 
Allan Line Steamships. 

LEVE & ALDEN, Tourist Agents, 



Chief Office: 207 BROADWAY, 



Uptown Office: 5 UNION SQUARE, 



NEW YORK. 

296 Washington St., Boston, Mass. Cor. Broad and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. 



'Messrs. LEVE ^^ ALBEK are also General Passenger Agents in 
the United States for the ALLAN LINE Royal Mail Steamships, leaving 
every SATURDAY from QUEBEC for LIVERPOOL. This route offers 
the shortest Ocean Voyage to Europe. 



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